Hurricane Project

[ph2ocraft]

Well I'm going to start looking for a hurricane that I can start playing with. I have the 777 engine, twin pipes and now (Thanks CRAZY MAN) Buckshot billet carbs. I scavenged up some manifolds, crazy found some bases I needed and even modified the tie bar/fuel rail (Wood Today) to fit the twin just perfect!! I have my Polaris flame arrestors, so the searching list shouldn't be too much.

Need CDI, I think this is probably a job for Randy.
Ride Plate, I hope something's out there.
Some Type of steering system

What am I missing gentlemen??

[ph2ocraft]

My carbs, spacer and tie/supply ready for use. I love the filters Buck used in this setup.

[Hydrotoys]

Keep in touch with Bruce about the handling.

[ph2ocraft]

Ah..........good idea, I also need to talk with him about an AAT and just haven't picked up the phone.:(

[CrazyA]

No problem Al!!! Looks good to see them all lined up, spaced, and ready. I'm just glad that I was able to dig up the adaptors and rail... we may have had a bitch of a time finding those items out in the real world. :)

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I have had my eye on this one all week. I just can't buy another one right now. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=260030393278&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[ph2ocraft]

I saw that BUT man Vermont. Why is nothing in Cali???

[Hydrotoys]

I saw that BUT man Vermont. Why is nothing in Cali???

Oh come on Al.

California HATES JETSKIS. This much is a fact. I don't blame anyone out there that has chosen not to buy one. I've never seen so many lakes with no access, boat ramps nazis, and regulatory bullcrap about coastline riding. It's simply oppressive. Joe showed me lakes where you had to go in a small circle and not over 35mph or they write you a ticket. Sheesh that's just crazy.

[ph2ocraft]

99 percent of the lakes within an hours time to me are just like that. One hour and 15 minutes and you're on thousands of miles of waterways (california Delta) 2-21/2 hours and you can access all lakes that have no "stupid" regulations.

[Hydrotoys]

Irregardless, those regs ARE in place, and have discouraged many would be watercraft owners. When we were in Long Beach for the race you didn't go to, I actually had a KID tell me that watercraft would be banned next year in CA. He thought they were illegal in all states, and that you could only ride them with special permits... "kind of like guns" was his child-like comment.

If you ever want to see old Hurricanes and Kawi 300 standups you better start edjumacating them youngsters out there.

Oh, and you just have to love the anti-watercraft signs, even in a marine stadium...
http://www.hydrotoys.com/lb2005/DSC_2603.jpg

[ph2ocraft]

I guess we need to make sure all of our buddies are a part of the AWA.............

[ph2ocraft]

Anybody remember if it's the HX steering that works on the Hurricane with some mods?? UMI speaking of course........

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Anybody remember if it's the HX steering that works on the Hurricane with some mods?? UMI speaking of course........

You need to track down Bruce on that one. http://www.wetwolf.com/hurr/hurr.htm

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Ohio is closer than Vermont.....LOL, I'm seeing double http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-1996-Polaris-Hurricane-w-Shorelander-trailer_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63683QQihZ004QQ itemZ140031838240QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW


Good price $2500 for the package

[ph2ocraft]

Man, who needs a trailer and Hurricane, I'll take the broken one.

[sleblanc]

well guys i would like to say i am new to this board and hope yall all had a wonderful time without me in yall hair but other than that i like how we got a hurricane talk on this place and not that other place on the other side of the fence

[RX951]

Welcome to the Forum ;)

[ph2ocraft]

I talked with Bruce today and have a couple of things I'm hunting for to get the handling up to par.:-$

[allcool]

Oh come on Al.

California HATES JETSKIS. This much is a fact. I don't blame anyone out there that has chosen not to buy one. I've never seen so many lakes with no access, boat ramps nazis, and regulatory bullcrap about coastline riding. It's simply oppressive. Joe showed me lakes where you had to go in a small circle and not over 35mph or they write you a ticket. Sheesh that's just crazy.

What is the reasoning behind these regulations? Never new the Cali tree huggers were that powerful.
Wtf
Small circles? How small, do they have a cop out measuring circles? Do people actually go out there and ride ring around the rosy?
Sounds like a cluster ****
I feel bad for you cali guys, check my sig, that is one of my river rides.
No regs, no cops, no nothing, but gators and 53+ miles of river.

[ph2ocraft]

The smaller lakes do indeed have the doggone cops watching over the place, you have to get to the larger lakes or thousands of miles of river to have a good time.

[wetwolf]

well guys i would like to say i am new to this board and hope yall all had a wonderful time without me in yall hair but other than that i like how we got a hurricane talk on this place and not that other place on the other side of the fence
dang shea, thought you wouldn't find us :shock:

glad to see you here dude, another cane addict:smt100

Da Wolf

[sleblanc]

yea i did. hey al you should check out the extension that wet wolf did on his cane came out way better than mine. i think there is a one off umi steering system floating around somewhere out there randy prolly knows where that things at ??

[ph2ocraft]

Can't find that doggone UMI anywhere BUT the HX steering is supposed to work with some modifications, I'll look into it soon. I will try and do an extension myself IF I'm feeling brave. LOL

[2&4strokepolaristech]

Al, why not end it all and build a 900cc stroker in that bad boy. with the twins and those buckshot carbs it would really yank your arms good. they run awesome and just make gobs of torque!!!!!!!

[ph2ocraft]

Dude..............I'd kill myself. LOL

[wetwolf]

Randy builds a 910 stroker for the Octane, it would bolt right in.:smt119

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Randy builds a 910 stroker for the Octane, it would bolt right in.:smt119

OMG, that's just EVIL :evil: do you have one or plan on getting one? I know you race yours that would be the Sh!t

[ph2ocraft]

What are you building on yours? I have my 777 with the carbs etc. all ready to go.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Probably just a stocker, I now refer to this as the empty pockets Hurricane project. I just want one. I bought it with the motor disassembled. The crank bearing are shot. I got this crank so cheap I couldn't pass it up. I just need new outer bearings, its new OEM and no core so I got the old one too. I had mismatched cylinders so I got a correct one from Del. I just got the correct heads for it from Del also. Oh wait I did get those 40 mm carbs from Del so it won't be bone stock. Del you're the man =D> I did measure. It's gonna have to be 1.5 mm over bore. Any suggestions on pistons? I usual go Wiesco, but these ones are gonna need a hole in the side of them. Whatever that's for?

[ph2ocraft]

Nice project. I like the Wiseco's, this might help.

[Hydrotoys]

I think you are refering to the hole on the side near the bottom on the intake side. It's not really a "must do". However, anyone with a clue, and a drill press, and your old piston for a reference could duplicate it.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

These holes appear to be drilled at a downward angel. What's the purpose of the exhaust bridge any how?

[CrazyA]

What's the purpose of the exhaust bridge any how?

It allows a wider port overall. It lets the port area be largely increased. Primarily it is there to support the piston and more importantly the piston ring. Without it, the ring would bulge into the port too far and break.

Typically speaking, one would never push the width of an exhaust port over 70% of bore size. In some engines with a single, bridged exhaust port, that can be increased to 85-90%.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

96 cane

[ph2ocraft]

I'd like to see that article.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Me too, that's all thats left. I had it stapled to my door for years. That was the back side of a factory pipe ad with the hot chick in the bikini. I did find a bunch of other stuff though. I can't find the catch fire write up I was looking for though :-x You keep mentioning juice. I did find a write up where it added 60 hp to a sea-doo gsx if you wanna see it?

[CrazyA]

I'll get more later on...

[wetherby]

I had mismatched cylinders so I got a correct one from Del. I just got the correct heads for it from Del also. Oh wait I did get those 40 mm carbs from Del so it won't be bone stock. Del you're the man =D> I did measure.

Anytime John.

Looks like I may be starting another project. That'll make three for winter fun. :|

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Yup, got to have winter projects to keep from going stir crazy. I'll be hearing from the guy in Vermont tomorrow about the Hurricane with the dead beat bidder. Guess he gave him till monday, see what happens.

[sleblanc]

hey guys i dont know if this is going to help yall out any but i had a question about that same hole when i did the top end rebuild on my cane and i got the new pistons in and the hole wasnt there so i called up WSM and they said that the whole was not needed. ????? i havent had any problems yet and i got about 50 hrs on that topend

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I might go the Wiseco route, so I'll ask them if I ever get the money to build this thing. I got their pistons in my 750 and my 250R with no complaints. Sleblanc is yours bore over and how much? Wonder if you notice a difference with more cc's. I have to go 1.5 mm over for 726 cc's. I was looking at this old Wiseco chart and they make a 2.25 mm over for my 750, yikes that would be 795 cc's. More cc's than my SLX, he he he.. Probably still wouldn't be as fast without the porting? Oops forget that silly idea, it ain't broke and my SBT engine in the SLX is 1.5 mm over which isn't on this chart, but it's got to be over 800 cc's?

EDIT: Ok, I just went through the entire Wiseco PDF's and found that they make 3.0 MM over size piston for the liberty 700 twin sled engine. 754 cc's and it uses the same wrist pin as the Hurricane 700, same stroke also. Says somthing about a head mod required for the sled. So what do you guys think about cramming a 84 mm piston in the Huricane and bumping it up 54 cc's? I'm guessing you would notice a difference.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Hey, question? Is there room to remove the hurricane exhaust pipe while the engine is still in there? Mine came with the engine out already. I'm thinking about tracking down another exhaust pipe to do Wolf's modifications too. I'm thinking rebuild the engine to stock. Then try it with the bigger carbs I got from wetherby. Then try it with the modified pipe.

[sleblanc]

mine is .5 over i looked at the chart on atlanticjetsports.com and i think i am at like 718cc right now maybe a lil difference i know before my bore i was at like 51 and after i was closer to 52ish bounceing around in there then when i did the extension that jumped it a lil to almost 53 then the heads and reeds before a lol adjustment of the carbs cause i had a flat spot put me in the 54-55 range and then after the ajustment i was showing a consistent 54.5 ro 55.5 that was all done on my gps i dont know how acc it is but i also got all these times with minimal gas in the tank and all times were recorded with a removed oil tank and oil pump now these were all with me on it at 230-240 pounds my lil cousin who weights 130 got on it and said he was getting a reading of 56 i think the bottom of my hull has something to do with the speed also its not gel coat smooth it all peeled away to leave a rougher finish i heard this helps it track better so i am leaving it that way.

like you if i blow it again i think i am going to wiseco cause i have them pistons in every thing i own but my 2 skis

[sleblanc]

Hey, question? Is there room to remove the hurricane exhaust pipe while the engine is still in there? Mine came with the engine out already. I'm thinking about tracking down another exhaust pipe to do Wolf's modifications too. I'm thinking rebuild the engine to stock. Then try it with the bigger carbs I got from wetherby. Then try it with the modified pipe.

to run the mod pipe your going to need randys cdi mod so i would go heads carbs reeds cdi pipe then an ATT. but i can tell you this with just my bore heads and reeds on mine its a hand full so be prepared and it will porpose like a mofo without an extension or washers placed on the back of the ride plate

[Polaris_Nut#1]

sleblanc, Have you tried the upside down wedge trick I have been hearing about? My engine build just got put on hold. Let me just say after Sunday I should have a spare exhaust pipe and a spare CDI to modify. Oh heck I'm gonna have a spare everything.....LOL

[wetwolf]

i was just lookin thru the wiseco stuff. a stock gp-760 piston is 84mm and it has a 20mm wristpin. I've got a pol 700 rod and a yam 701/760 piston hanging around, I'll look tomorrow and see if they fit together.
I never tried the 2 deg upside down thing, I only had 4 and 6 wedges around. I did build a lever trim for it and it worked OK. but i took it off coz i got tired of holdin the damn thing in all the time. I found i had faster top speed by doin the hoopty dance down the back stretch. so mebbee the 2 deg would have worked out.

I had one race on the extended plate at the end of this season. Now, instead of porpoising down the straights, the whole hull comes out of the water pretty flat and slams back in. You sure go into the corner faster, but you hafta lean a lot more. I have a jet dynamics plate sittin here, I might put it on next season and see what happens. :)

[sleblanc]

the upside down wedge makes the nose dig alot when idoling and it takes a lil top end off where as the ride plate extension doesnt do that another think you need to find a set of hx sponsons i am going to put a set on mine for next year wet wolf swears by them so i going to give it a try

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Can you say Oops! Had a minor trailer boo boo. A little bit of road rash at 10 mph. Nothing big scuffed the cowl, and bumper, and handle grip. Oh well I have all those parts already.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK the bottom of this one has a tiger hair patch and is in rough shape. The other one I got has a nicer bottom but a worse top deck, Hmmmm? Maybe a swap. OK, it got dark but I put a battery in and it has no juice at all. No MFD, bilge pump, or starter. I took pic of the funky stuff you find buying a used ski. Who knows what they were thinking? RTV on the air cleaners, fuel filters in the lines, a wire shaved bare in the middle. I'm think check the fuses first.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Looks like there's water in that fuel separator too.

[sleblanc]

theres my baby and thats my roughly done extension i got to trim it down a lil bit but it worked and added top speed check out the wolfs extension his looks great.

[sleblanc]

some more

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I like that 97 color scheme way better than what's on the 96's I got. I'd paint one of mine but I can't find a 97 decal kit anywhere it was changed to the 96 kit when I try to look it up. Did they upgrade the 97 to hydro turf mats from the factory? I think they did but can't remember.

[YZDOUGLAS]

What Do You Guys Use For Fuel Lines(i Bought Some Tygon Yellow)some Say Good Some Say Bad.what Do You Think?also Every Pic I See Of The Canes They Still Have The Fuel Selector Valve-everyone Here Says To By-pass-what To Do.thanks For Any Help/suggestions.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

What Do You Guys Use For Fuel Lines(i Bought Some Tygon Yellow)some Say Good Some Say Bad.what Do You Think?also Every Pic I See Of The Canes They Still Have The Fuel Selector Valve-everyone Here Says To By-pass-what To Do.thanks For Any Help/suggestions.

I just run the factory fuel line or similar stuff if I need to fix something. There was a service bulletin on the on/off valves, and there were to be replaced on a lot of the old Polaris skis. I guess they wouldn't open all the way and would cause you to run lean. I'm not bypassing any of mine. I had an incident with my 96 SLX running on the trailer and it would not shut off. Kill switch, lanyard, pulled plug wires, and disconnected the battery, and it was still screaming on the trailer. I had to close the valve to stop it. Pretty weird, but they call it glow plugging.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Here is what I found today in my hour of sunlight. The fuel separator was empty and the floating ring was above the spring. The air cleaners are missing some hold down shafts. I was happy to see that there wasn't any broken off under the lids. The CDI looks melted so I took it out. I went to check the glass fuse and it pulled both keepers off the board. I think rust was holding it there or the dielectric grease. The reset button did not have the rubber bubble over it. I took it out. Oh, and I found nylons over both of the air intake tubes under the cowl? The bottom of the ski is rough. Looks like I'll be doing some gel coat patching. Should I fill some of the deeper gouges with SMC before I go over it with gel coat, or will filling them will gel coat be enough?

[wetwolf]

I ran dual feeds thru dual filters and dual petcocks. I midified the stock fuel sender and basically got rid of the sender part and dropped 2 lines into the tank (no reserve) This ran 2 44mm modified sbn carbs with thier own fuel pumps. now, since I have built a fuel rail for the thing, I will be going to a 70lph pump and vapor sperator.

[ph2ocraft]

I like that 97 color scheme way better than what's on the 96's I got. I'd paint one of mine but I can't find a 97 decal kit anywhere it was changed to the 96 kit when I try to look it up. Did they upgrade the 97 to hydro turf mats from the factory? I think they did but can't remember.

I think it was Dan Schoeffers who has a set for the 97 Cane'. You can contact him through Weber.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

These damn jet skis are an addiction :smt100 . I have to curb my impulse spending for a while :smt119 . So hopefully I can rob electrical components off my first cane to get this one going for now. I might just swap the electrical box. Is it possible to rivet those keepers back in the circuit board?

[ph2ocraft]

The board itself is pretty damn inexpensive, see if Jay at atlantic has one in stock, if so it's 20% off.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Smells like it's well done...

[YZDOUGLAS]

So Who Do I Send My Ride Plate To For An Extension?

[ph2ocraft]

YZ, Damn good question. Maybe call one of the boys who have done the mod or maybe Bruce as he has a full shop and the extension should be a piece of cake for him.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, I haven't even ridden either of my Hurricanes yet, so I don't know how they handle. I haven't had any daylight time to swap electrical components yet. I was just looking at the classifieds and see that Zig has a 4 inch extension spacer for sale. I might have one in the basement, but anyway here's the idea. Get four 4 inch longer bolts, add the extension after the stator assembly like on a pro set-up, just make a 4 inch steering extension. Just for Sh!ts and giggles to see what difference it would make. I figure It would be pretty easy to do without having to find a longer drive shaft. Any thoughts? Probably porpoise like a dolphin at sea world?

[Hydrotoys]

My guess would be porpoise less.

[sleblanc]

the ride plate helped me out alot for day to day riding but for gutting bouys without the sponsons it made the backend a lil skiddish but with that said i think bruces came out better than mine did. also i regret to inform you guys that all my funds are going to be diverted to my new project !!!!!!!!!! its a 1950 jeep m-38 with a flat head inline 4 nick named go devil engine. i picked it up for 500 bucks it cost me 70 to get it running and this weekend i am going to separate the body and chasis i got a long list of new replacemnet part that i am going to need but i feel it willl all be worth it in the end so. good news i got offered 1500 for it already lol :smt119

[ph2ocraft]

Cool project, too bad about the cane' I've been waiting for this one to unfold.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, I cut the electric box out of one cane brought it in the garage to go through it cause it's freezing here. The CDI looks good. I decided to clean all the contacts in the box, and of coarse the holder with the three yellow wires came right off the board. I could be cheap and pop rivet it to the board or use one of the empty three prong holders, but I think I'm gonna replace the board for peace of mind and hopefully I won't have any future problems. The board has a part NO. PN 4040068 REV-2 and parts land shows a number of 2434014 TERM.BOARD ASM,MFD 23.91


Anyone know if this was upgraded? I'm just wondering about the part number change. Oh and of coarse if anyone knows where I might find it cheaper I'm all for that too.

[ph2ocraft]

It is a 2434014. I know if it were mine for the few bucks I'd replace it. Did you check to see if atlantic was less money with your discount?

[ph2ocraft]

You know that number 4040068 is for the 96 Hurricane, maybe you should verify your year model??

1996 HURRICANE (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','273','8141','1996','HURRICANE ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20HURRICANE%20B964466%20 and%20%20Intl.%20HURRICANE%20I964466'))B964466 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','273','8141','1996','HURRICANE ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20HURRICANE%20B964466%20 and%20%20Intl.%20HURRICANE%20I964466'))ELECTRICAL BOX HURRICANE B964466 and Intl. HURRICANE I964466 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','273','8141','1996','HURRICANE ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20HURRICANE%20B964466%20 and%20%20Intl.%20HURRICANE%20I964466'))4040068 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','273','8141','1996','HURRICANE ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20HURRICANE%20B964466%20 and%20%20Intl.%20HURRICANE%20I964466'))
1996 INTL HURRICANE (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','280','8141','1996','INTL%20HU RRICANE','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20HURRICANE%20B96 4466%20and%20%20Intl.%20HURRICANE%20I964466'))I964 466 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','280','8141','1996','INTL%20HU RRICANE','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20HURRICANE%20B96 4466%20and%20%20Intl.%20HURRICANE%20I964466'))ELEC TRICAL BOX HURRICANE B964466 and Intl. HURRICANE I964466 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','280','8141','1996','INTL%20HU RRICANE','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20HURRICANE%20B96 4466%20and%20%20Intl.%20HURRICANE%20I964466'))4040 068 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','280','8141','1996','INTL%20HU RRICANE','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20HURRICANE%20B96 4466%20and%20%20Intl.%20HURRICANE%20I964466'))
1996 INTL SL 900 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','279','7917','1996','INTL%20SL %20900','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20900%20B9642 91%20and%20%20Intl.%20SL%20900%20I964291'))I964291 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','279','7917','1996','INTL%20SL %20900','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20900%20B9642 91%20and%20%20Intl.%20SL%20900%20I964291'))ELECTRI CAL BOX SL 900 B964291 and Intl. SL 900 I964291 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','279','7917','1996','INTL%20SL %20900','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20900%20B9642 91%20and%20%20Intl.%20SL%20900%20I964291'))4040068 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','279','7917','1996','INTL%20SL %20900','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20900%20B9642 91%20and%20%20Intl.%20SL%20900%20I964291'))
1996 INTL SLT 780 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','281','8135','1996','INTL%20SL T%20780','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLT%20780%20B96 4588%20and%20%20Intl.%20SLT%20780%20I964588'))I964 588 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','281','8135','1996','INTL%20SL T%20780','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLT%20780%20B96 4588%20and%20%20Intl.%20SLT%20780%20I964588'))ELEC TRICAL BOX SLT 780 B964588 and Intl. SLT 780 I964588 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','281','8135','1996','INTL%20SL T%20780','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLT%20780%20B96 4588%20and%20%20Intl.%20SLT%20780%20I964588'))4040 068 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','281','8135','1996','INTL%20SL T%20780','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLT%20780%20B96 4588%20and%20%20Intl.%20SLT%20780%20I964588'))
1996 INTL SLTX (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','282','8539','1996','INTL%20SL TX','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLTX%20B964590%20and %20Intl.%20SLTX%20I964590'))I964590 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','282','8539','1996','INTL%20SL TX','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLTX%20B964590%20and %20Intl.%20SLTX%20I964590'))ELECTRICAL BOX SLTX B964590 and Intl. SLTX I964590 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','282','8539','1996','INTL%20SL TX','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLTX%20B964590%20and %20Intl.%20SLTX%20I964590'))4040068 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','282','8539','1996','INTL%20SL TX','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLTX%20B964590%20and %20Intl.%20SLTX%20I964590'))
1996 INTL SLX 780 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','278','5894','1996','INTL%20SL X%20780','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLX%20780%20B96 4287%20and%20%20Intl.%20SLX%20780%20I964287'))I964 287 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','278','5894','1996','INTL%20SL X%20780','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLX%20780%20B96 4287%20and%20%20Intl.%20SLX%20780%20I964287'))ELEC TRICAL BOX SLX 780 B964287 and Intl. SLX 780 I964287 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','278','5894','1996','INTL%20SL X%20780','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLX%20780%20B96 4287%20and%20%20Intl.%20SLX%20780%20I964287'))4040 068 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','278','5894','1996','INTL%20SL X%20780','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLX%20780%20B96 4287%20and%20%20Intl.%20SLX%20780%20I964287'))
1996 SL 780 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','269','13933','1996','SL%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20780%20B964087%20a nd%20Intl.%20SL%20780%20I964087'))B964087 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','269','13933','1996','SL%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20780%20B964087%20a nd%20Intl.%20SL%20780%20I964087'))ELECTRICAL BOX SL 780 B964087 and Intl. SL 780 I964087 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','269','13933','1996','SL%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20780%20B964087%20a nd%20Intl.%20SL%20780%20I964087'))4040068 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','269','13933','1996','SL%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20780%20B964087%20a nd%20Intl.%20SL%20780%20I964087'))
1996 SL 900 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','272','7917','1996','SL%20900' ,'PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20900%20B964291%20an d%20%20Intl.%20SL%20900%20I964291'))B964291 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','272','7917','1996','SL%20900' ,'PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20900%20B964291%20an d%20%20Intl.%20SL%20900%20I964291'))ELECTRICAL BOX SL 900 B964291 and Intl. SL 900 I964291 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','272','7917','1996','SL%20900' ,'PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20900%20B964291%20an d%20%20Intl.%20SL%20900%20I964291'))4040068 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','272','7917','1996','SL%20900' ,'PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SL%20900%20B964291%20an d%20%20Intl.%20SL%20900%20I964291'))
1996 SLT 780 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','274','8135','1996','SLT%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLT%20780%20B964588%20 and%20%20Intl.%20SLT%20780%20I964588'))B964588 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','274','8135','1996','SLT%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLT%20780%20B964588%20 and%20%20Intl.%20SLT%20780%20I964588'))ELECTRICAL BOX SLT 780 B964588 and Intl. SLT 780 I964588 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','274','8135','1996','SLT%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLT%20780%20B964588%20 and%20%20Intl.%20SLT%20780%20I964588'))4040068 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','274','8135','1996','SLT%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLT%20780%20B964588%20 and%20%20Intl.%20SLT%20780%20I964588'))
1996 SLTX (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','275','8539','1996','SLTX','PW C','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLTX%20B964590%20and%20Intl .%20SLTX%20I964590'))B964590 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','275','8539','1996','SLTX','PW C','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLTX%20B964590%20and%20Intl .%20SLTX%20I964590'))ELECTRICAL BOX SLTX B964590 and Intl. SLTX I964590 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','275','8539','1996','SLTX','PW C','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLTX%20B964590%20and%20Intl .%20SLTX%20I964590'))4040068 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','275','8539','1996','SLTX','PW C','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLTX%20B964590%20and%20Intl .%20SLTX%20I964590'))
1996 SLX 780 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','271','5894','1996','SLX%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLX%20780%20B964287%20 and%20%20Intl.%20SLX%20780%20I964287'))B964287 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','271','5894','1996','SLX%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLX%20780%20B964287%20 and%20%20Intl.%20SLX%20780%20I964287'))ELECTRICAL BOX SLX 780 B964287 and Intl. SLX 780 I964287 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','271','5894','1996','SLX%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLX%20780%20B964287%20 and%20%20Intl.%20SLX%20780%20I964287'))4040068 (http://javascript<b></b>:f_DisplayImage('2','271','5894','1996','SLX%20780 ','PWC','ELECTRICAL%20BOX%20SLX%20780%20B964287%20 and%20%20Intl.%20SLX%20780%20I964287'))

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Well I just called Atlantic and they are not open on Mondays, I think I might order a new circuit breaker while I'm at it. Yikes parts land is showing that they get $9.35 for the little rubber bubble that is supposed to cover the button that's insane! Both of my cane boxes are missing that bubble, must be because of the side mounting of the box or something. I'll try them again tomorrow.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, just got off the phone with Tony and the parts should be here Wednesday. They had to order the board but the rest was in stock. I got the board, circuit breaker and the stupid little bubble. Yes, they were cheaper at Atlantic with the discount. Thanks Ph2ocraft!

[troyring]

So I am trying to figure out why my box looks like this. What is the red wire going to that relay supposed to be and why does the ignition coil look completely different?

[Polaris_Nut#1]

It looks like you have the upgraded ignition system on yours. The coils look different and the CDI has the number hand written on it. That is why I think it is the newer system. What is the problem you are having? If your talking about the breaker the red wire goes to the solenoid and the red/purple wire goes from the CDI to the breaker and the board kinda splits in two.

[ph2ocraft]

Wiring schematic for the 96

http://www.tripleateam.com/water/d/67420-1/Image1-4.jpg

[troyring]

I have a Seloc manual but the wiring that is in there does not match what is actually in the ski, is there anywhere I can find a wiring diagram for the upgraded ignition? Cause I really have no idea where to start.

[ph2ocraft]

Go to my gallery (link below) find the tech section and search for the Domestic twin ignition update. If you can't find it, remoind me Friday night and I'll dig it up Saturday but it's there.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

You got some good stuff in there!

[troyring]

So there should be r/p going into and coming out of the circuit breaker?

[Polaris_Nut#1]

solid red wire on one terminal and a red/purple on the other. OK I just looked at Ph2ocrafts diagram and I don't get it either. It only shows one wire going to the breaker. How is that suposed to work?

[ph2ocraft]

That schematic is only for the updated ignition system and doesn't show the complete schematic. The schematic I posted earlier shows the complete system.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

ah that makes sense now :smt119

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, I called Atlantic today and they have my parts held hostage :shock: ...just kidding. They are supposed to be shipping them today. Now I just have to pray for some good luck and some unseasonable warm weather.

[YZDOUGLAS]

guess the cane section is dead?????????????

[ph2ocraft]

It certainly goes in streaks and with Winter rolling in, it's a little harder to get yourself on one. LOL
I sure wish I could find a beater around Cali and drop my 777 into it.:p

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I'm itching to go. I wanted to hear one roar by thanksgiving. Still no parts, it will be a month of waiting on Friday the 24th. They will hopefully be hear in the beginning of the week. I'm pacing a hole in the floor over here. It was damn near 70 degrees here the last two days and me with no parts :roll:

[ph2ocraft]

I may have found me a Hurricane today. My fingers are crossed.
A little problem I found is that my reed assemblies/manifolds don't fit the cases-this BLOWS!!!!

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Hooray my parts are finally here. BOO it's 30 degrees out! I can't even get the cover off cause it's too cold, just my luck.

[sleblanc]

well guys i am thinking of putting my pair of toys for sale thinking somewhere in the 3500 buck range trailer box both skis and all the original parts i got left for the cane

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, I spent Thanksgiving day outside waiting for the turkey. I installed the new board, new breaker, and CDI from my other Cane and the only difference is a jumper wire is eliminated on the new board.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

So I doubled checked everything, hooked up the battery, checked the MFD everything appears to be working on it. Odd when I hooked up the battery it said 7 mph then dropped to 5 mph and then went to zero. I went through the modes and my battery was reading 14.8 volts and dropped to 14.7 volts. This battery is from my SLX and was charged at 2 amps over two months ago when I stored it for the winter so the extra 2 volts seemed odd to me. Anyway I hit the starter button and not a! No cranking, no clicking or any thing what so ever. Damn electrical gremlins. The rectifier only works when the stator is making an out put correct? The odd 2 volts got me confused. I'll have to check the battery with a volt meter. I have an extra solenoid and two extra rectifiers. I guess I'll start the no start check in the manual with my volt meter. Any thoughts?

Edit: I find it hard to believe that this $400 Cane from VT has 53.1 hours on it. It must have had a rough life.

[ph2ocraft]

Make sure you have 12+ volts going to the starter button.
When you depress the start button make sure you have 12+ volts going to the starter solenoid (yellow/red wire).
Do you have 12 volts at the starter solenoid?
When you depress the starter button do you have 12 volts at the other side of the starter solenoid (red, going to the starter motor)?
Do you have a good ground from the battery to the engine block?
Do you have a good ground to the starter solenoid?
Do you have good ground to the MFD?
From the battery you should have 2 cables, one goes to the engine block the other to the junction on the electrical box.
Let us know what you find!!

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, this is a new one December 28th and it's in the 40's today. I set a new personal record for tinkering with PWC outside. Indoor engine swaps don't count. Here's how many hour of daylight went down. Armed with my volt meter and my trusty shop manual, I planned an attack on the Hurricane Gremlins.

Battery reads 12.36 volts
put it in the craft MFD reads 14.6 ????
MFD reads 12.1 MPH ????

Solenoid out no reading with or without the wire connected when the start button is pushed.
Solenoid in reads 12.28 volts

My first assumption is the solenoid is bad, But I continue with the checks in the manual.

circuit breaker in 12.27 volts
circuit breaker out 12.27 volts

took a part the start switch and someone has already shaved two tiny spots on the wire in and out of the button. I'll have to remember to cover them with some liquid tape later.

Start button in 12.03 volts
push button in and get 11.83 coming out.

In goes my spare solenoid, MFD reads 14.4 volts and 12 mph ???
Hooray! I must be getting closer the solenoid now clicks :smt119 Argh!

with the wire disconnected I get a solenoid out reading of 11.87 volts when the button is pressed
with the wire from the starter hooked up I get 80 volts when I hit the starter ???? Cranking amps maybe??? I'm lost there.

So what's with the 80 volts?
Why the 14.4 volts on the MFD?
And what's up with the 12.1 MPH standing still?

I'm guessing the starter is not grounded or bad :smt100

[ph2ocraft]

The scale probably changed and it was reading something like .80 volts or less than 1 volt.
Try your tests with a jumper box
Revove the starter, put it on the ground and hold it with your foot. Use the starter box and attach ground to a clean non painted area and attach the power, how does she work?
If the starter is good and the power/ground supply is good, I'd be looking for a poor ground or power contact.
No matter how good the engine ground looks, clean the paint away from the engine.
Try moving the ground location but make sure the starter has ground.
You sure the bendix works freely and the engine rotates by hand?

One other quick thing you can test is with the jumper box attached, move the ground cable from the jumper box to the starter directly and see if it works.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

well it's got to be 10 degrees colder today my toes are numb. I put a freshly charged battery in and continued the manual tests. The battery check at 12.81 volts. The MFD read 15.1 volts and 13.3 Mph. I'm still not getting that?

Step 3 black to battery positive and red to solenoid end of battery to solenoid cable, push button should be less than .1v DC
OK it read zero and went to -3.2 volts

Step 4 black to solenoid end of battery to solenoid cable and red to solenoid end of solenoid to starter cable, push button should be less than .1v DC
OK it read -12.62 and went to -12.35 when pushed.

Step 5 skipped I cannot get to the starter wire without taking out the exhaust pipe. says to check black to solenoid end of solenoid to starter cable and red to starter end of same cable. push button should be less that .1v DC

Step 6 connect black to starter frame and red to battery negative, push button, should read less than .1v DC volt.
OK, zero and stays on zero when pressed. (says to clean ends of engine to battery cable or replace) I hope it's that simple. I had to give up for today I'm freezing.

I'll clean that negative engine ground cable tomorrow. That's about as far as I can get without yanking the exhaust pipe to get to the starter. Do you guys see anything that stands out in these readings I have posted?

[Polaris_Nut#1]

No matter how good the engine ground looks, clean the paint away from the engine.
.

Oh, I remember that one. I suggested that SBT put a little masking tape on their boat anchors before they paint them and got a ton of crap back from them at that place we don't speak of. I mean seriously how hard would that be. I had to remove my SLX pipe, take out my starter, and sand their paint off the engine to get that one running.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK I cleaned all the wire connections and nothing so out came the exhaust pipe, then the starter. I think maybe the starter was seized up. I turned it over by hand and it made a slight grinding sound and I can hear rust or sand when I shake it. It did spin over when I put direct power to it from the battery with jumper wires. I guess I should swap it out and try my spare. I got a reading of 14.9 on the MFD today for voltage how the hell do you fix that?

[Polaris_Nut#1]

The one with the worn teeth is out of this VT cane and the other is from the Brookfield MA project, both 96 Hurricanes. Why does the other one have two o-rings? They have the same markings on them. The other one turns over smoothly. Looking at those worn teeth on this one should I be thinking about digging in deeper? The weather is probably going to turn cold soon and end this headache till Spring but I'd like to have everything I need ready to go.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Try moving the ground location but make sure the starter has ground. You sure the bendix works freely and the engine rotates by hand?

Well, I decided I'm going to dig right in and pull off the mag cover. I might as well take a peek at the stator. Mainly I am going to take it off and put the matching bendix in with the other starter. I want to check the flywheel teeth also. I figure I'm already in there so I might as well go all the way. Maybe there is a problem with the bendix. Once I have the spare bendix and starter in it, it better turn over or I'm gonna throw a grenade in there.

I may not get a lot of responses down here in the Cane section and it may look like I'm talking to myself at times, but I tell you what it's nice to go back and read the stuff I have already tested. I don't have one of those photographic memory's and this is good documentation to go back to for reference.

[beerdart]

A good look at the staror will do wonders for the electrical system. From what you hve found so far the stater needs to be checked then you will know where you stand. Keep digging the truth is out there.

[ph2ocraft]

Roughly 2500 views, you are not alone. I'd use the smoother working starter. Another thing you can do while the starter is out if you wish.

Get your external battery and attach your ground, then with an amp meter (the type that lays on the cable) attach the power cable while holding the starter on the ground and see which one draws less current, that will be the better starter.

I've also seen starters that work good outside the boat but under load they fail. I try to hold mine with a pair of pliers and see if it rips them out of my friggin hands.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I try to hold mine with a pair of pliers and see if it rips them out of my friggin hands.

Some how I get the idea you're not kidding. DANGER DANGER LOOK OUT....LOL "Honey have you seen the band aids?"

[Polaris_Nut#1]

:shock: so pretty!

[ph2ocraft]

Indeed they are!! I have a set of Fusions I was going to use, they are purty as well.
http://www.tripleateam.com/water/d/9726-3/Fusion_900_reeds.jpeg

[CrazyA]

:shock: so pretty!

Yeah they are... yeah they are!!! 8-)

[gorilla03]

nut remind me what the mfd said for voltage...i had a 14.2-14.5 volts when not running..i had a lovolt warning on the mfd when i first bought it and come to find out the battery was dead...charged the battery for a half hour and it said 14.2 on the mfd...

[warrenmccord]

I have a 96 Polaris Hurricaine that is porpoising badly, someone told me to put washers under the ride plate which helped a little, but i'm looking for a way to smooth out the ride alot more. Anyone with any suggestions?
(warrenmccord@hotmail.com)

[Rodneyae]

Welcome to the Green Hulk, warrenmccord



Adding trim or even trim tabs will help, but it will also slow you down. Also a full tank of fuel will help sometims. What is going on? Is it bouncing across the water

[gorilla03]

does the hurricane have the trim settings on it?? if so mess around with it adjusting it to a place where it doesn't pourpose as much....do you have the stock ride plate on?? maybe a extended ride plate may do the trick

[Rodneyae]

I had problems with my Sea doo, doing the same thing. It also has a small fuel tank. I place a small 1 gallon gas can in the bow. Yes I ran out of fuel a couple of times. LOL But the side effect of this was that it helped to keep the bow down, and had a much better ride (my SL still has the better ride). After I noticed the differance I also relocated the battery in the bow, which also made a differance. SO, if you play with some items that has a litle weight you might find something that works for you.

[ph2ocraft]

warren, WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums!!!
A few of the guys have had some pretty good with the extended plate, maybe Bruce from Wet Wolf will come around and say what he's done to his. It might be on his site here: www.wetwolf.com (http://www.wetwolf.com) check it out.

[warrenmccord]

Its a 96 Hurricaine that doesn't have trim tabs on it. It also has the stock ride plate. I have looked online for an extended ride plate and everybody I call says they dont make one for the hurricaine

[Polaris_Nut#1]

the upside down wedge makes the nose dig alot when idoling and it takes a lil top end off where as the ride plate extension doesnt do that another think you need to find a set of hx sponsons i am going to put a set on mine for next year wet wolf swears by them so i going to give it a try

I'm looking for pictures. I know I have them somewhere. There are some on this post

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I never tried the 2 deg upside down thing, I only had 4 and 6 wedges around. I did build a lever trim for it and it worked OK. but i took it off coz i got tired of holdin the damn thing in all the time. I found i had faster top speed by doin the hoopty dance down the back stretch. so mebbee the 2 deg would have worked out.

I had one race on the extended plate at the end of this season. Now, instead of porpoising down the straights, the whole hull comes out of the water pretty flat and slams back in. You sure go into the corner faster, but you hafta lean a lot more. I have a jet dynamics plate sittin here, I might put it on next season and see what happens. :)

Wolf's previous input

[Polaris_Nut#1]

some ride plate pictures. Wolf's link http://www.wetwolf.com/hurr/hurr.htm

[wetwolf]

warren, welcome tothe polaris hideout. The hurricane is a big porpoising sack o crap. It is not a sit down boat, even tho it has a seat. in order to get the best top speed, I have found that you need to stand towards the back and weight the boat to one side or the other to help keep the bow down. going down the back straight, I usually rock the thing from side to side to keep the speed up. you need to remeber that riding a cane thru the chop is kinda like riding a 4x8 sheet of plywood over moguls

[Polaris_Nut#1]

you need to remeber that riding a cane thru the chop is kinda like riding a 4x8 sheet of plywood over moguls

LMFAO :smt044

[ph2ocraft]

HEY, I used to ride on a piece of plywood in the snow, with my brothers and sisters no less..............

[wetwolf]

HEY, I used to ride on a piece of plywood in the snow, with my brothers and sisters no less..............


that doesn't surprise me at all.#-o

[Polaris_Nut#1]

funny when I was a little kid, way before wake boarding hit this area I seem to remember people water skiing on a piece of plywood cut into a circle. Weird seeing them on a disk of plywood.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Pump

[wetwolf]

That pump looks like a good candidate for a bored nozzle and a unit!! :)

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, I'm finally back at. I have been lazy, and I have been tinkering with my 250R for a while. So I figure some fresh pictures are in order. Here's the $400 headache. Well worth it. I must say. Anyway check the pictures and tell me if you see a problem???

[Polaris_Nut#1]

.

[ph2ocraft]

SAAAWWEEEEET for 400 bucks. A little glass work, cosmetic details, a stator and flywheel cover, maybe a stator and flywheel. Did you find what let lose under the cover?

[ZMANN]

someone forgot to install the bushing??
http://www.partsland.com/pw97hurricrankcase.gif

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I took the flywheel cover off and was like AH HA! Finally found the problem. I'm guessing that hole is supposed to be round... LOL, I have a new flywheel, and I'm gonnna check the cover from my other cane. I plan on using the starter and bendix from the other one also. Is there a way to test the stator while the flywheel is off? I didn't see anything in the manual. Guess I got to track down a puller.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Z, 4 and 5 were in the hole backwards no that I'm looking at the diagram.

[ZMANN]

actually six is the bushing the pic is a little confusing? I'll post the parts list! Z http://www.partsland.com/index.cgi?N=1178541792-15278&P=PW-1997-HURRICANE-CRANKCASE

[RedlineR6]

If ya need a stator or any ignition, let me know. Morg15t and I just updated his entire ignition system to have the plug in port. So we have the first updated PVL system laying around.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

actually six is the bushing the pic is a little confusing? I'll post the parts list! Z http://www.partsland.com/index.cgi?N=1178541792-15278&P=PW-1997-HURRICANE-CRANKCASE


OK so 6 is the bigger bushing that has the slot worn in it. 5 is the spring and 4 is a plastic bushing that was on the wrong side of the spring and I got go back out there and see if I even have 3. #3 might be on the bendix???

[ZMANN]

I can think of a few causes? one the Bendix didn't disengage and spun with the flywheel causing excessive wear? or the flywheel has a high spot thats pushing the Bendix into the bushing? or some kind of assembly issue! but dam 400.00 what a score! Z

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, I'm feeling retarded. I just got my other flywheel cover and they both look the same. I have both my Fuji's together and running smoothly but this is my first domestic project. So is this damn bushing supposed to be slotted like that or are both of these messed up??? :smt100 I got to borrow a damn puller and get that flywheel off. Oh the new flywheel the center timing thing is loose can I put it where it goes now?? I'm guessing if I pull this flywheel and compare it to my other rusty one and they are both in the same place it should be OK to line the new one up to the same spot and tighten it up? My guess is the are both junk but they look some much a like maybe that's how they are supposed to be. Here's some new pics.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, I'm going with it should be round. Has anyone replaced one of these bushings before? Just wondering if it's possible to do without causing damage to the cover. I can't believe they are both shot. Is this common?

[ph2ocraft]

I'd certainly call that a stroke of bad luck. I just bought three cover assemblies and all three look premo.
I'm not sure what the heck causes your cut out like that. Did either one have the shim between the bendix and cover?

Rotational torque with no bushing.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

The Vermont Cane had a shim on each side of the bendix if that's what you mean? Not sure about the Brookfield MA Hurricane. The motor was disassembled when I got that one. It's just odd that they are both like that.

[ph2ocraft]

It is wierd, I talked to Randy today and he says one possibility is the bushing probably came out when somebody took it apart and had no idea where it went. Once the bushing is missing the rotational torque keeps pushing on the aluminum and there you have you egg shape.

I like his explanation.

[beerdart]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/polaris-700-slh-hurricane-slth-stator-plate-NICE-cover_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ124115QQihZ002QQi temZ120119681736QQrdZ1
http://i15.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/9e/d8/d34b_1.JPG

[ph2ocraft]

Shhhhh, I've been quietly watching..:-$

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Thanks guys I'm waiting on this one right now. It ran last week and nobody bid on it. The bushing it self is less than $6. That's why I was wondering if anybody tried to change one.

[Watcon]

They are not that hard to remove, Try a tap that will start into the I.D. of the bushing, and add heat around the bushing on the crankcase. Once it starts to spin, it should be easy. I have new bushings in stock, but you will need new flywheel covers, as the bore alignment will never be correct again.
Randy

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I actually opened the book. Let me know if I should repost any of this under the tech section. These two are the disassembly inspection.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I'm a little confused looking at picture 8 and 9 in the second photo. It shows a washer in picture 8 and then a washer on each end of the bendix on picture 9. It looks the same on parts land. So my question is should there be two washers double stacked on the flywheel cover side of the bendix? maybe that is the problem. All of the pictures are unclear when looking at the manual and parts break downs. Mine just had a washer on each end of the bendix. Was one missing?

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Assembly... OK it looks like just a washer on each end of the bendix here. Can somebody just confirm this for me? No red loctite on the key way or flywheel nut or tapper like on the Fuji's?

[ph2ocraft]

One washer on each end of the bendix.
Whe removing the bushings I use a pilot bearing remover, slight heat and they slide right out.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Figures nobody bid on the auction last week. Now that I determine that I need it I got out bid. Hell with it. I'm going to replace the following.

4 3574214 1 BUSHING,PLASTIC 4.36
5 7041457 1 SPRING .82
6 3569806 1 BUSHING 5.45

Can't hurt to replace the spring and plastic bushing too. I don't want to have to go back in there for a while once it's together.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Not really progress, but it was looking so ugly. I got out of work early today and planned to weed whack and mow the lawn. Next thing I know all the Vermont decals are removed and the old girl got a quickie with the nu-finish once a year car polish. I'm going to have to do the bottom completely over one of these days, months, or years. The top ain't too bad a little touch up here and there. Slap on some new bumpers on and it's all good. I just need the side rails if anybody had new ones. I have the other three pieces waiting in the cellar. Well, I guess it's off to the jungle, yard work to do.

[ph2ocraft]

Man would that look good in my yard.O:)

[800AMSOIL4U]

Man would that look good in my yard.O:)

Wait, you do not have room in your yard right now. You mean it would look good in my yard. :lol: Just like your other 2 skis I have on my trailer right now.

[CrazyA]

Just like your other 2 skis I have on my trailer right now.

Now that's funny. What's 1 or 2 skis between buddies??? :lol: :lol: :lol:

(Oh.... I'm killing myself over here Kevin!!!) :lol: :lol: :lol:

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I can't win. I tell ya! I put a five dollar scratch ticket in my Uncles birthday card and he wins a Hundred bucks. We at least somebody is lucky. So my steering wheel puller wouldn't work cause the center bolt is like a mile long. I borrowed a puller from my buddy. Hooray the flywheel is off. =D> Now I got the bendix out. It works smoothly and returns quickly but the teeth aren't so good, BOO! I grabbed the Brookfield MA cane bendix and the teeth are great but the return is kinda slow. I can't win, I tell ya. With all these damn spare parts cluttering my cellar, garage, and shed you would think I'd have something I need. So the shopping list grows. Flywheel starter housing bushing, plastic bushing, spring, and now a bendix too. Oh wait there is more. I couldn't find a piece of rope in the garage so I took the cover off the 750 and the storage knob almost took me out. Shot at me like a cork out of a champagne bottle. I found the spring in the drive way, so now I need a knob for that too. Did I miss any thing??? Oh anybody got the part number for that crank seal in the flywheel cover?? I might as well change that too and I can't find it on the parts diagrams.

[ph2ocraft]

I think it's 3610044 part#12
http://parts.polarisind.com/images/3573/3573C002.gif

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Thanks, that's the one. I'll take a number 12 please.

I got to go look these machines over real good so I can place my order. I hate finding out I missed something.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Rode the SLX and the SL750 yesterday. They ran great once all that fogging oil burned off. So this project is hopefully just waiting on a flywheel cover and a bendix. I was out in the garage moving parts around when a little light went off in my head. While I'm waiting on parts I am going to bolt the starter back in, hook up the battery, throw the lanyard on and see if that damn starter spins when I hit the button. It can't hurt to verify that the electrical gremlins have been eradicated while I'm waiting.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=280117371516&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=018

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Who's the lucky winner? Anyone on here? It looks like a nice one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=250118341697&rd=1

[ph2ocraft]

I checked that one out but bought the 96 for 800 bucks out of AZ.

[RedlineR6]

I checked that one out but bought the 96 for 800 bucks out of AZ.


Nice Al!! I wondered if you would be buying that! We'll have to compare notes when we get in the tuning phase!! Next stage....stop porpoising #-o

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I checked that one out but bought the 96 for 800 bucks out of AZ.

=D> SAWEET! That's a nice score! I thought that $2000 was a little much for the other one with supposed carb problems. Poor guy will probably find out it needs electrical work or something.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

AL throw up them pictures. I missed that one. Is it in nice shape? Ah who cares this is the project section....LOL

[ph2ocraft]

LOL Looks nice, I'll get some pictures up and start a project on it, I have evrything but a CDI update for it.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I have a bought had it with this damn Hurricane, ARRRGG! I bolt a good starter in without the resistance of the bendix and flywheel, hook up a good battery, hit the start button and CLICK! Something is wrong somewhere. Still shows 3 to 4 mph on the MFD and drops to zero. The battery voltage is still reading two volts higher than the actual battery, 14.38 Volts on the MFD. :smt119 I done did all them electrical tests, time to do them again. I think the rectifier is the only thing I didn't change. I got two spares in the cellar. I'm gonna swap one of those in and see if the MFD readings change.

EDIT: ANYBODY???

[ph2ocraft]

Did you ever use a jumper and go directlly to the starter wire at the solenoid (wire leading to starter) and the other cable end to the engine?
If so, what happens? A click or does it rotate the engine?

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, this is a new one December 28th and it's in the 40's today. I set a new personal record for tinkering with PWC outside. Indoor engine swaps don't count. Here's how many hour of daylight went down. Armed with my volt meter and my trusty shop manual, I planned an attack on the Hurricane Gremlins.

Battery reads 12.36 volts
put it in the craft MFD reads 14.6 ????
MFD reads 12.1 MPH ????

Solenoid out no reading with or without the wire connected when the start button is pushed.
Solenoid in reads 12.28 volts

My first assumption is the solenoid is bad, But I continue with the checks in the manual.

circuit breaker in 12.27 volts
circuit breaker out 12.27 volts

took a part the start switch and someone has already shaved two tiny spots on the wire in and out of the button. I'll have to remember to cover them with some liquid tape later.

Start button in 12.03 volts
push button in and get 11.83 coming out.

In goes my spare solenoid, MFD reads 14.4 volts and 12 mph ???
Hooray! I must be getting closer the solenoid now clicks :smt119 Argh!

with the wire disconnected I get a solenoid out reading of 11.87 volts when the button is pressed
with the wire from the starter hooked up I get 80 volts when I hit the starter ???? Cranking amps maybe??? I'm lost there.

So what's with the 80 volts?
Why the 14.4 volts on the MFD?
And what's up with the 12.1 MPH standing still?

I'm guessing the starter is not grounded or bad :smt100

It's nice to be able to back track. I'll try those suggestions tomorrow.

[ph2ocraft]

I'm still thinkg a grounding issue, we'll have a better idea after your report tomorrow.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

well it's got to be 10 degrees colder today my toes are numb. I put a freshly charged battery in and continued the manual tests. The battery check at 12.81 volts. The MFD read 15.1 volts and 13.3 Mph. I'm still not getting that?

Step 3 black to battery positive and red to solenoid end of battery to solenoid cable, push button should be less than .1v DC
OK it read zero and went to -3.2 volts

Step 4 black to solenoid end of battery to solenoid cable and red to solenoid end of solenoid to starter cable, push button should be less than .1v DC
OK it read -12.62 and went to -12.35 when pushed.

Step 5 skipped I cannot get to the starter wire without taking out the exhaust pipe. says to check black to solenoid end of solenoid to starter cable and red to starter end of same cable. push button should be less that .1v DC

Step 6 connect black to starter frame and red to battery negative, push button, should read less than .1v DC volt.
OK, zero and stays on zero when pressed. (says to clean ends of engine to battery cable or replace) I hope it's that simple. I had to give up for today I'm freezing.

I'll clean that negative engine ground cable tomorrow. That's about as far as I can get without yanking the exhaust pipe to get to the starter. Do you guys see anything that stands out in these readings I have posted?

OK that is all I found with the meter last winter. The bendix and flywheel are off it should spin when I hit the button. The starter worked on the bench. I'm gonna hit the starter with a jump box and see if it spins, then I'll try and jump the solenoid, maybe my spare solenoid is bad. Sounds like a ground to me.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Rained on and off all day but I got out there and ran a jumper wire across the solenoid and zing it spins every time. I disconnected the yellow/red and figured if that got 12 volts the starter should spin. My jumper wasn't long enough to reach the battery positive terminal, so I touched it to the red/purple which I believe is 12 volts and got the infamous click. The starter must have had good power and ground to spin like that when by passing the solenoid. So is it safe to order a solenoid?

[ph2ocraft]

Do one more thing before condeming the solenoid.
Run a jumper from the solenoid (battery voltage side) and then to the post where the yellow/red wire goes, does the starter crank?
If yes, there is a current supply problem from the yellow/red wire.
If no, replace the solenoid.

One last thing, make sure the ground to the solenoid is perfect as well or the solenoid will not open and allow the current to run from the battery to the starter.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Do one more thing before condeming the solenoid.
Run a jumper from the solenoid (battery voltage side) and then to the post where the yellow/red wire goes, does the starter crank?

So battery post side of solenoid directly to yellow/red post on circuit board. I'm tempted to get a flash light.

If yes, there is a current supply problem from the yellow/red wire.
If no, replace the solenoid.

One last thing, make sure the ground to the solenoid is perfect as well or the solenoid will not open and allow the current to run from the battery to the starter.

I have been thinking ground all a long.


OK, two more checks, a flywheel cover, slap it back together and a trip to the registry I hope.

[ph2ocraft]

Not to the red/yellow on the board but to the post on the solenoid where the red/yellow wire attaches.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Oops, OK here is what I did. I cleaned all the grounds lightly with sand paper and reattached them. I put an alligator clip on the battery side red wire going into the solenoid and touched the red/yellow between the two wires attached to the board and got a click. Then I took and touched the red/yellow wire where it is soldered on to the solenoid and still got a click. I think that is where you meant. There is no red/yellow post but that is where the wire comes out of the solenoid. I also put the alligator clip from my test light on the red positive side of the solenoid and checked each ground they all light the test light. Question the metal grounding bar that holds the coils down is just barley touching the Phillips head screw on the corner of the solenoid. Is that a problem? I'm assuming it shouldn't be because they both should be grounded. So is that a definite on the solenoid or do I need to check the start/stop switch again? The switch checked out OK a couple of months ago.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I'm really grasping at straws here? Is it possible the solenoid is in incorrectly? Meaning are they directional where I would have to take it out and turn it and reattach the two red wires? The screw is was talking about holds the solenoid case together it is not a power post or anything.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK Al helped me confirm that it is the solenoid. I'll be on the phone tomorrow ordering up a new one. I may try my first Hurricane solenoid again just for ha ha's seeing how I have a new board, breaker and just about everything in there.

I forgot got to ask, Al when are you getting your new Cane? :-k I'm sure the pictures would be up if you had it already.

oh, thanks again

[ph2ocraft]

My buddy is grabbing it from Arizona and bringing it to Vegas, I'll grab it sometime after my vacation. Fun to start soon.=D>

[Polaris_Nut#1]

That works out nicely, I love it when a plan comes together!

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Nice got the spring and plastic bushing too.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

My buddy is grabbing it from Arizona and bringing it to Vegas, I'll grab it sometime after my vacation. Fun to start soon.=D>

Vacation is over buddy, now where is it? :) LOL

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Yahoo, the last part is here! Well, hopefully it's the last part. I hooked up the battery and yup still reading 14.5 volts on the MFD. Just to satisfy my curiosity I put in my other L23 rectifier and still got 14.5 volts which I expected but hey I had to try it. I put the new solenoid and hit the button and zing. She spins!! Now I have to button up the electric box, install the new bendix, new flywheel, and the new cover. Oh yeah and the exhaust pipe.

[wetherby]

That mfd is looking a little faded.;)

[ph2ocraft]

=D> =D> You'll be in the water soon!!
My Cane will be here in roughly 2 weeks, he picked it up but won't be here for a little while. Yahooooo!!

[Polaris_Nut#1]

install new solenoid check
install new circuit board check
install new circuit breaker check
install new bendix check
install new flywheel check
install spare CDI check
Install spare rectifier check

left to do,
find inch pound wrench install new flywheel cover
install oil pump
install exhaust pipe
button up electric box and secure to hull

We should have ignition by late Monday nite :)

[ph2ocraft]

=D> =D>

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Well I got everything done except for mounting the electric box. I need to liquid tape a wire that the previous owner shaved bare. I eyeballed the holder on the new flywheel and it's in the same spot as my other two, so it's got to be damn close. I had to race the wonderful Berkshire thunder storm, but I got it just about complete. I put some pre-mix from my weed whacker gas can in the fuel water separator trap and put a splash down each cylinder. It turned over slow and coughed. Then it was just spinning too slow to start. I took the battery out and in came the storm. So hopefully charge the battery and have ignition tomorrow.

[ph2ocraft]

Damn, you're getting close, I better get my rear in gear and start mine.LOL

[Polaris_Nut#1]

I'm starting to hate this frigging thing! put the fully charged battery in and of coarse the MFD reads 15.5 volts. I hit the starter and she turns over like a champ. I guess that should be reason enough to be happy. But No ignition. I check the fuel separator and the blue gas (pre-mix) is half gone and the regular fuel is starting to fill it, so I know the fuel pump is working. Choke didn't help either way. Just sputtering and a cough of smoke. Now the battery is going dead so I give up. So wouldn't you know I have great spark on the MAG and just a rare occasional spark coming from the PTO once in a while. So the damn battery is charging again. I'll trim back the wire tomorrow and put the boot back on. I hope that does it cause I have about had it with these electrical gremlins. Everything is mounted and ready to rock. I have full fuel and oil tanks. If that don't fix it what else could it be?

[ph2ocraft]

Switch the wires at the coil pack and see if the problem goes to the other cylinder.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, I trimmed the spark plug wire back and put the boot back on. I put the battery back in and I am still having problems on the PTO plug. It fired good a couple of times then nothing for a bit and then it fires weakly once in a while. MAG side is still great. So, I unhooked the battery, unbolted the battery box from the hull and it started raining. ](*,)

[ph2ocraft]

Did you switch the electrical wires at the coil to see if the spark changes cylinders? You'll need to split the box for the test but it's worth it??

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Did you switch the electrical wires at the coil to see if the spark changes cylinders? You'll need to split the box for the test but it's worth it??

That was the plan. Now it's raining out. I got a spare in the cellar. Is there anyway to bench test the spare? I wonder if an Octane coil pack would make a nice upgrade if I have to buy a new one? :-k Maybe they are the same. Now I have something to investigate.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, 2000 to 2004 twins use coil number 4010175. I think that is what I would get with the ignition upgrade kit. Oh well.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

OK, I couldn't switch the wires because it looked like they do not come off. So, off to the cellar I went and grabbed coil pack number two and installed it. I checked both cylinders for spark and they looked great. I cranked it over once and nothing. I gave it full choke and she started and stalled. I turned the choke off and it started and stayed running right around 1,110 RPM's. I killed it after about 10 seconds. I never burped the throttle or anything. I'll wait till it's on the trailer in the lake. I have a severe fear of glow plugging ever since I had that problem with the SLX and SBT. I wanna run it with the seat off and check for leaks from the hull, engine, and thru hull bushings before heading out. Trying a new toy out on Saturday :) :) :)

[ph2ocraft]

Well I actually meant to switch the electrical connectors black/white and yellow/brown to see if the spark went weak to the opposite cylinder BUT it looks like the stator is good and the coil or battery was your problem.

Now what is this new toy, I wonder.:-k

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Well I actually meant to switch the electrical connectors black/white and yellow/brown to see if the spark went weak to the opposite cylinder BUT it looks like the stator is good and the coil or battery was your problem.

Now what is this new toy, I wonder.:-k

Ah, now I get it. I was thinking about that but I was in a hurry to go to a Birthday party. I didn't know which wires did what without consulting the electrical diagram in the manual. I guessing it was the coil because it seem to be sparking great now. Yeah, I'll be trying out the Hurricane on Saturday. I got two of them and have never even rode one yet. I have never rode a Hurricane at all so this should be interesting. One project down and one to go. Well, this one is far from done. I have to fix the bottom of the hull on this one yet and clean it up still. It's ugly under there.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

It was an OK day. I took her out. The ride is different for sure. The front end plows under water when I let off the gas. Seemed to go good for about a mile. Low 40's mph. Then it cut out and wouldn't start. 15 minutes of floating around and I got towed in. My buddy's ZXI is acting up. So I had nobody to really stick around with me. I charged the battery which was dead from my 15 minutes of floating and trying the starter. She fired right back up. The idle is way too low. It would stall if I let off the gas. Guess it's time to go through the carbs. I did try some hard cornering and dumped myself off handle grip and all.

[darrel]

Hi, did you determine that the coil was bad? I'm fighting a similar problem it sounds like to me. According to the manual and my checks of the coil it is bad but I sure hate to waste $75 to find out it isn't my problem. According to the manual I should have 1200-1600 ohms resistance across the plug wire terminals on the coil and I have 3000.

[ph2ocraft]

It was an OK day. I took her out. The ride is different for sure. The front end plows under water when I let off the gas. Seemed to go good for about a mile. Low 40's mph. Then it cut out and wouldn't start. 15 minutes of floating around and I got towed in. My buddy's ZXI is acting up. So I had nobody to really stick around with me. I charged the battery which was dead from my 15 minutes of floating and trying the starter. She fired right back up. The idle is way too low. It would stall if I let off the gas. Guess it's time to go through the carbs. I did try some hard cornering and dumped myself off handle grip and all.

Man, I've been playing with the RZR too much.
How did this turn out, I'm curious as well.
If it has no sparky spark it will need the entire upgrade as I just did to mine.
I'll check my numbers this weekend.Max RPM's and speed if possible as it's in bone stock condition right now.

[ph2ocraft]

Darrel,
Off topic but I need a GPS for my RZR. The most important feature to me is it's able to charge on the dock, can run on batteries (how long, I'm not sure), leaves turds so you know where you've been and of course started from, needs to be water resistant at minimum. Shock proof, dust and ableto handle the rigors of a good off road beating. Miles, speedo etc would be cool but not needeed and of course I don't want to spend 600 bucks, the 300 or less range should do it??

[darrel]

Darrel,
Off topic but I need a GPS for my RZR. The most important feature to me is it's able to charge on the dock, can run on batteries (how long, I'm not sure), leaves turds so you know where you've been and of course started from, needs to be water resistant at minimum. Shock proof, dust and ableto handle the rigors of a good off road beating. Miles, speedo etc would be cool but not needeed and of course I don't want to spend 600 bucks, the 300 or less range should do it??
What do you mean by charge on the dock? I assume you would want as small as unit as possible? If so I'd recommend the GARMIN eTrex Legend HCx at $215.00 or the Vista HCx at $240.00.

[ph2ocraft]

Actually the larger the screen the better as it's for a SxS and the GPS will wind up in the center of the dash.
By charging in the dock I mean I'd like the unit, when mounted, charging while the RZR is running so the batteries don't get drained.

Can I call or e-mail you so we don't jack the thread too much.
http://www.tripleateam.com/water/d/78946-2/rzr+stock.jpg

http://www.tripleateam.com/water/d/79172-2/rzrstereo5.JPG

[Polaris_Nut#1]

It's official! I need that damn updated ignition system. What's that part number for the correct one for the Hurricane again??? I got a buddy to go to the lake after work today. I installed a new battery and the same sh!t happened again. 1.5 miles and not a thing so I got towed in and NO SPARK! Man this thing bucks like a bronco ever time I try to go WOT.

[ph2ocraft]

Hug the handlebars and the porpoise will stop........but you will get a slower top speed. Look for glassy water and then try a high speed run.
Stator kit number is 2873022 (96/97 Hurricane)

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Thanks..

[sleblanc]

extended ride plate works wonders