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I would pull the plate down until it gets tight then hold onto the throttle rod and tweak on the plate with needle nose until it's straight enough to pull out. Once it's out you can beat it flat with...

It's not that bad if you have long arms like me. Unhook the exhaust hose in front of the engine and get it out of the way. You can reach down around the engine and get to the bolts. Unhook the...

Sounds like you want 2 different things, you can't have both. You can either have a Superstock motor with all the goodies that runs on high octane fuel, OR you can have a recreational cruiser with a...

You should not even be able to see that white ,plastic. The whole outer layer black plasticized rubber of your wear ring has rotted and come off. Very common on an older Doo or one that's been...

For starters please don't take your ski back to this "mechanic". He might be a good mechanic but that doesn't mean he's a watercraft mechanic. We are "different". I believe you have the accelerator...

What about those fuel lines?

Have you checked power valve operatrion?

Have you already gone through the fuel system and changed out the grey tubing? Sounds like a fuel delivery issue to me. But, if the starter was not sealed up to the case good you could have water in...

Pulser --------------------102 ohms. BLK--WHI/R
charge--------------------90 ohms. BRN--WHI/BLK
lighting coil---------------- .10 ohms
ignition coil----------------pri 15 ohms.
ignition...

I don't believa a worn RAVE would raise exhaust temp but I'm sure one that's not opening fully could. Didn't you clean them up when the motor was all apart?

Yes, if that water was in there for that long all the crank bearings will have rust pits along with the cylinder walls.

The only place it would really matter is the base gasket. If you still have a stock head you have plenty of clearance anyway. It will be just fine.

The Yamaha 500 CDI's are all interchangeable. As long as it's a 500 CDI it will work. Kill switch or overtemp sensor could cause that. You need some specs so you can ohm out the electrical system.

I like it. I always paint stuff up custom on my own machines.

Could very well be a weak coil or stator. Ohm them out, your looking for ohm readings way out of spec. Also where it grounds in the electrical box could be corroded or rusty.

When I do one I usually go over the part that rides in the seals with some emery cloth if it looks worn at all to straighten it up. Then I pack a little grease in the seal lips with my finger before...

If that were mine I would richen the hotter one a bit until the temp comes down to the lower one.

I actually had a '97 XP doing that once and it ended up being a bad MPEM.

Worn impeller or wear ring.

Usually that's exactly how it happens after a carb cleaning or rebuild. Fire it up, idle a bit, blip the throttle and all hell breaks loose.

Yes, I've read about the replacements and that's probably what we'll do. Also with the hours I was suspecting the pump. I'll check the sock and test the pump outside of the tank to see what it does...

Before I even started with the fuel filter I only had about 95psi past the filter. That's why I started there. I haven't cut the filter open but I can feel resistance just by blowing through it by...

This poor woman has had this machine at every place around including the stealership twice. Now I'm trying to figure it out. For starters it has 224 hours and was still wearing it's original fuel...

That oil should be fine. The 701 Yamaha will run great with any TCW3 rated oil. Quicksilver from Wal-mart is fairly cheap and will work fine.

You can buy that fitting (flush adapter) from SBT or most any place that sells PWC parts. You can also start and run the machine with no cooling water whatsoever for about 60-90 seconds without...