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  1. #21
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GGG View Post
    How successful are you at clearing codes K447? I can never seem to do it successfully on Ficht newer than 2002
    Sometimes it has taken me several tries before the EMM would actually clear old codes using the non-DW method, but I have not had the problem of the old codes never clearing.

    The timing cadence can be tricky to get just right, especially if you are using the TPS or just a piece of wire in the TPS connector.

    That said, most of the Ficht EMM I have messed with are 2002 and older. The 2004 MSX140 does not give me much trouble so I rarely need to read or clear codes on it.

    Update: Some EMM need the TPS signal to change from jumpered to +5V to solidly grounded. I have updated the EMM code clearing procedure to use a grounding resistor or a 3-way switch instead of just the wire jumper.
    Last edited by K447; 09-15-2014 at 09:19 AM.

  2. #22
    GGG's Avatar
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    I have never successfully cleared codes on an msx. I must be doing something wrong. I'll have to keep practicing ha ha

  3. #23

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    I tried for about a half an hour tonight no luck clearing. got codes 12,17,51,52 any advice?

  4. #24
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surf71 View Post
    hi I was wondering if you sell any set ups (Polaris Ficht EMM trouble codes using a simple LED tool). I dont really know where to buy all the component for your system. it would be easier for me if I could buy one from you.
    hi have a polaris msx 140 2003, and my check engine light is on. when I start my water craft it runs great at idle but when I give it gaz it chokes up and the check engine flashes. what could it be??? need help.
    Welcome

    Where are you located?

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    B) Next is the Polaris Ficht Service Code Light (PN 2872455)

    Made using a Deutsch DT04-12P connector, along with a few pins (example 16 AWG size 0460-202-16).
    It has a red LED plus a resistor in series between pins 2 and 4. LED polarity must be wired so it lights when pin 2 has positive voltage.

    I made up a fancy one with a second Yellow LED for the overheat sensor, and an MFD security by-pass jumper, so I could use it for several different purposes. Shown in photos one and two.

    A simple LED Service code light can be made without the Deutsch connector, just using two pieces of 14 AWG wire, an LED, and a resistor.

    I used colored wires, but you just need to mark which wire will go to pin 2, and which will connect to pin 4.
    Photo sequence below shows assembly of an example Simple LED tool, including polarity testing with a 9 volt battery.

    It is better if the LED is medium or high brightness type, to make it easier to see, but in a pinch almost any LED will do. Do not use a 'blinking or flashing' LED part, just a standard red LED is what you need.

    Radio Shack 276-307 or 276-309 are examples, but there are hundreds of LED part numbers that would work just as well. Any electronics parts supplier will have LED that can be used for this. It simply needs to light up from 12 volt DC power flowing through a series connected resistor.

    I used a 330 ohm resistor (color code orange-orange-brown), which allows for moderate brightness.
    Radio Shack 271-1315 is one source, but again these are widely available.

    The exact resistance is not critical - anything between 100 ohms and 500 ohms will probably work. The smaller the resistor ohms, the brighter the LED can be. Too little ohms, and the LED may burn out
    Note: You must use an LED, not a 12 volt light bulb or some other voltage tester. A light bulb will draw too much current and might blow the fuse for the display, or even possibly damage the EMM circuitry that drives the LED for the MFI/NGI display.

    Which reminds me - now would be a good time to check the fuse for the display. Make sure it is the correct Amp rating, and is otherwise in good shape (no corrosion, proper voltages at the pins on the display connector.

    Correct fuse for the displays on 2002-2004 Virage, Genesis and MSX fuel injected models is 2 Amp Mini blade fuse.


    For the 1999-2001 Virage and Genesis fuel injected models it is a 1/4 Amp cylinder type fuse.

    Solder the parts together as shown.

    Any electronic 'component level' repair shop should be able make this up in a few minutes.

    I used heat shrink tubing to insulate the parts and provide some toughness to the finished piece.

    Make sure the wires must not short together.

    If you don't have heat shrink tubing, use drinking straw sections or something similar to ensure that nothing will break or short, then tape it.

    You can make the wires longer, which may make it easier to position the LED where you can easily see it while working at the engine. Just make sure you don't pull the LED and resistor apart in use - they are somewhat fragile.

    Another option is to use Radio Shack part 276-0270, which is an LED with an internal resistor. Solder short sections of #14 wire to each wire end, and insulate the joints.
    dear sir i tried to do everythink as you showed but i have problem...
    i made 8 pin emm shortcut as picture , i removed odometer socket but its different than your pictures...
    Mine is attached , it has gray color not green and type is different.
    also there is a socket which you attached one jumper and 2 led,but its not on manual which you shared for msx 140,is it necessary for my msx?
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  6. #26
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cagatay87 View Post
    ... removed odometer socket but its different than your pictures...

    ...is it necessary for my msx?
    Look at this,

    Virage & Genesis MFI security bypass jumper



    ONLY the Virage and Genesis have a security mode in the MFI display. Bypass is only needed if the MFI is Locked or not working properly.

    The MSX models do NOT have a security feature, so no need to unplug display to bypass security.

    The MSX 140 has the NGI display tucked up into the hood. The Deutsch connector is plugged into back of the NGI display, so it can be difficult to get at the wire harness connector. It can be wiggled out from behind the display, just need to work at getting the connector tabs to release and working the connector out.

    The MSX 140 also has a pair of inline wire harness connectors for the display. These are located down near the hood hinge. Completely different looking connectors, but the wire colors are mostly the same. Simple LED tool can be plugged into either the Deutsch connect or from behind the display, or into the hood hinge connectors. Just find the correct pins by the wire colors.
    Last edited by K447; 04-20-2017 at 11:04 PM. Reason: Added MSX 140 info

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Look at this,

    Virage & Genesis MFI security bypass jumper



    ONLY the Virage and Genesis have a security mode in the MFI display. Bypass is only needed if the MFI is Locked or not working properly.

    The MSX models do NOT have a security feature, so no need to unplug display.
    bro do you have detailed guide for msx because im so mied up , this socket different from mine to there is no led connected on this picture,where i have to connect led? im so mixed up
    sorry i passed i dont need to unplug it , its ok tomorrow i will try it .Thx already .
    Do you have schematic diagram for ecu and repair manual ?

  8. #28
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    I added more details to my prior reply.


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