Thread: 2000 XL1200 Limited Won't Run
07-18-2009, 12:13 AM #1
2000 XL1200 Limited Won't Run
Ok, so I haven't ridden my ski in two or three weeks. I get the itch to take the ski out after work today and it was hesitant to start but it eventually did. Rode for about and hour or so and came back in when the rain hit. I decided to turn the ski off and float for a little bit and enjoy the rain. Well after sitting for 10 mins or so I tried to start the ski again. And nothing. By nothing I mean the starter would turn the motor over but it wouldn't ignite. I get the ski home and hook up jumper cables to my car and let it sit for a while. In the mean time I checked the spark plugs and check the wires. Well the spark plugs were not wet but I smelled a little fuel but not sure where to go from here.
07-18-2009, 12:20 AM #2
Check for spark, if you don't have any it could be a stator issue. Try some new plugs.
07-18-2009, 12:55 AM #3
there is a chance that the buttrfly is getting stuck and when you crank it it is already at 1/4 or 1/2 throttle and flooding it. i have seen one that after riding for about 30 min. to an hour it would heat up and then the throttle would stick from the seals swelling. i may be way off base but hopefully it helps.
07-19-2009, 11:15 AM #4
I tried new plugs and old, not hearing or seeing any spark. Now Friday night when I checked for spark, in pitch black I could see a very dim spark. I pulled the electrical box Saturday but couldn't figure out how to test the coils. I do have the manual but just couldn't figure out how to test them.
07-22-2009, 08:43 AM #5
Ok so did a little more searching on the forums and began looking for issues with the stator or ignition coils. Last night I pulled the connector for the stator and tested the resistance.
According to the manual: Green to Green for the Lighting Coil is supposed to read .49 - .59 ohms and White/Red to Black/Orange for the Pickup Coil is supposed to read 445 - 545 ohms. When I tested the Pickup Coil I got .529 Kohms. When I tested the Lighting Coil it was weird because it initially read 1.26 and then imediately started to drop and ended up staying at .78, but I can't remember if the digital Fluke meter was on Kohms or ohms. So I will test them again.
Yes I know there is a big difference between Kohms and ohms for the Lighting Coil but in either case it would be out of the tollerences, so does that mean its bad and needs replaced?
07-22-2009, 09:49 AM #6
Have your carbs been rebuilt they are 9 years old that is what was making it start hard mine used to be hard to start it is 5 years old now with rebuilt carbs it starts easy.
07-23-2009, 11:28 PM #7
someone once told me 80% of electrical problems can be found in the carbs.
Check your multi meter for correct setting and make sure you get a good connection in the plug, I have thin ttips on mine I use just for the connector plugs.
07-24-2009, 02:21 AM #8
[quote=OsideBill;1147806]someone once told me 80% of electrical problems can be found in the carbs.
+1 to that! Rebuilt carbs from Jim solved most of my running issues, such as bogging, bad tickover, cutting out at speed, and hard starting. I had to have a new/used set sent over 'cos the screws on mine were totally siezed and I damaged the seats trying to get them out. What a world of difference though. Well worth the expense. Hopefully you'll just get away with a rebuild of the originals.
08-29-2009, 08:09 PM #9
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
Possibly may help
remember it takes gas to make it run, anything less than 89 octane only burns, anything greater ignites. Gas get old and flat within 90 days, generally speaking any gas besides the major brands are seconds.
This is info from the manufacturers of 2 stroke lawn equipment.
I had a problem with my 1200 firing up, once I got rid of the old gas and started using 93 octane Shell and Marathon, it ran fine, started better.
Fresh gas and Sta Bil blue which is designed for marine use near water and ethanol gas.
08-30-2009, 11:44 AM #10
When you have a ski that was previously running fine and suddenly won't start, check out the starter switch. The ones on the XL's especially have issues with corrosion inside the handlebar assembly. You can spend hours chasing gremlins because you assume the first step in the starting process is working right.
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