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  1. #1

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    Help 2002 1200 Genesis I, No Spark, No Fuel

    I Have a 2002 Genesis I 1200 DI with no spark but when I plug the diagnostic jumper in that plugs into the wiring going into back of ficht I have spark but no fuel. The thing had four codes, 17, 81, 82, and 83. I cleared all of them but the 17 came back up saying stator output low, cleared again but it didnt come back. My crank position sensor is reading 143 ohms and I think its meant to have 1000 but not sure. Wondering why that it gains spark when the jumper is pluged in. Any Ideas? Thanks


  2. #2
    way2much2do's Avatar
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    Hello fst,

    First of all, welcome to the Hulk.

    I have a similar machine (2001 Virage 1200 TXi with the Ficht direct injection). To the best of my knowledge, the diagnostic jumper is supposed to be plugged in all the time. I think the only time you remove it is when you connect up the diagnostic software.

    Is the connector the jumper plugs into a 4-wire connector? Does the jumper itself have only one wire in it - white with a red stripe, as I recall? If so, mine stays there all the time.

    I believe our engines are almost identical. Crank position sensor resistance is supposed to be less than 200 ohms according to the service manual. Mine checked out at 145.5 ohms a couple days ago, so I think you're OK there.

    Since you got the 17 code (alternator voltage below expected range), you might want to check the resistances on the stator circuits. There should be five pairs. They are located in the 12-pin connector at the front of the EMM. I assume you found the EMM....you have to remove the "trunk" and then look up under where the handle bars are on my Virage....I assume it's the same on a Genesis. There will probably be 2 connectors there. Unplug the 12 pin and measure resistance on the following pairs of wires. This is what you should get for each. The pin numbers are listed right on the connector.

    Pins 1 & 12: 0.3-0.5 ohms
    Pins 2 & 11: 0.3-0.5 ohms
    Pins 3 & 10: 0.1-0.3 ohms
    Pins 4 & 9: 0.1-0.3 ohms
    Pins 5 & 8: 0.1-0.3 ohms

    Pins 6 & 7 should be empty.

    If these all check out OK, and you're SURE your battery is good (these things are REALLY finicky about having FULLY charged batteries), and you're sure the lanyard is plugged in while you're trying to start it (I know it sounds dumb, but I do it at least once a year ), then you'll want to check fuel pressure. You should have 20-30 psi while cranking. There is a shrader valve in-line that you can connect a fuel pressure gauge to.

    OK....now I have one burning question for you. Can you please tell me how you pulled and cleared the codes??????

    Let us know what you find with the above and we can dig deeper if necessary.

  3. #3

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    I am getting nothing between my 2 and 11 in the connector. Does that mean I need a stator? As for the codes I am borrowing a diagnostics cord and software from someone else who also had problems with one of these. The jumper that I have in is between the ficht and the top wire that goes into the back of ficht between the 1 and the 7 on the 8 pin connector. When I plug that wire back into the ficht there is no spark. Thanks

  4. #4
    way2much2do's Avatar
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    So, you are getting infinite resistance (open circuit) between 2 & 11?

    I would carefully check the wiring between the stator housing and the EMM to make sure it's not damaged anywhere. If not, and you are truly getting infinite resistance at these two pins, then it sounds like you might have a bad stator. You might also want to check resistance between both sides of that stator circuit (2 & 11) and ground. You're not supposed to have any connection to ground. Compare that with the other circuit pairs and see if it's "different." I've heard of flywheel magnets coming loose and damaging or shorting out stators on these engines.

    My machine is outside right now (lots of mosquitoes right now) or I'd go look at that jumper for you. I can do it in the morning. Looking at the wiring diagram, the one wire in that jumper (white with red stripe) is for the 45 volt system and goes between Pins 32 & 33 on the 40 pin connector (on the back of the EMM) and pins 2 & 7 (you mentioned 1 & 7????) on the 8-pin connector. According to my wiring diagram, pin 1 on the 8-pin connector is the 12V DC supply circuit so I don't think that wire should go between 1 & 7. Are you sure it's not 2 & 7?

    Maybe you could snap a picture of that jumper just to make sure we're talking about the same thing.

    I'm a little confused about your spark issue. In your first post, you said, "when I plug the diagnostic jumper in that plugs into the wiring going into back of ficht I have spark but no fuel" and "Wondering why that it gains spark when the jumper is pluged in".....

    But, in your last post, you said, "When I plug that wire back into the ficht there is no spark."

    Which is correct? Does it spark with the connector plugged in, or only when it is unplugged? Are you getting fuel or not?

    Whatever is happening, I'm guessing the stator issue is causing your lack of spark or fuel.

    If you can elaborate on the spark/fuel status and the relationship to the connector being unplugged or plugged in, we might be able to make some sense out of it.

  5. #5
    way2much2do's Avatar
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    Just did some more service manual reading, and I believe the 17 code is for the 45 volt system. That's the system that operates the injectors. So, if you are truly getting spark and no fuel (as mentioned in your 1st post) and you had a code 17 and an open circuit on pins 2 & 11, it's possible there is a problem with the 45 volt stator circuit and this would explain the lack of fuel.

  6. #6

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    When I plug the wiring back into the ficht it looses spark and the fuel pump doesnt run. When I plug it back into jumper I get spark and the fuel pump runs but it will not start ( If I give it fogging oil it runs on that ). I will have to get a fuel pressure gauge on it to check pressure. Thanks for input I will check into rest tommorrow.

  7. #7

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    Heres a picture of the jumper on the wire going into back of ficht that it doesnt spark when the wire is just plugged into ficht. The other picture is of the digital wrench hookup. Thanks
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  8. #8
    way2much2do's Avatar
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    Ok....this is going to be complicated. Let me start by giving some definitions so I don't confuse you (or myself!).

    When I say "diagnostic cable" I mean the one that goes to the laptop computer.

    When I say "diagnostic connector" I mean the 4-pin that is permanently attached to the machine that has 4 wires (I think) in it.

    When I say "jumper" I mean the mating 4-pin connector that is also permanently attached to the machine, has only 1 wire in it (white with red stripe), and plugs into the "diagnostic connector" during normal non-diagnostic mode use.

    Ok....now let me give this a try.

    So, before you plugged in the diagnostic cable, the diagnostic connector on the Genesis had the jumper plugged into it, right?

    I assume (trying to figure out what's going on by looking at the pics) the diagnostic cable has three ends on it. I'm guessing you disconnected the jumper from the diagnostic connector on the machine, and plugged two of the three ends of the diagnostic cable into each of those? Then, the third end of the diagnostic cable goes to the laptop, right? Am I doing OK so far?

    Now, can you please explain (once more, because I'm still a little confused) about what symptom you have (no spark and/or no fuel) and the condition of all of these connectors when that symptom occurs?

    But, before you do all that typing, have you checked resistance between pins 2 & 11 and ground? I'm wondering if your stator circuit is shorted to ground. Maybe that's what causing all of this.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    I have been off-line for a couple of days, just saw this thread

    Terminology correction, just to so we don't confuse each other;
    Ficht is the name for the technology used in these fuel injected engines
    The EMM is the computerized module that controls the engine
    The 'Service Power Jumper' plug connects pins 1 and 7 together on the 8-pin plug on the wire harness, not to the EMM itself.

    There is a looped connection of the White/Red wire, which is only used when connecting a laptop computer using the Ficht communications cable. That White/Red connection links the 45 volt output of the EMM power section to the 45 volt feed into the EMM itself and the spark and ignition sub-systems.

    The EMM has a voltage boosting circuit, that generates the 20 plus volts needed by the injectors while the engine is cranking. If that voltage booster fails, you will not have fuel injection during cranking.

    You need to check the voltage on the White/Red wire that powers the injectors. It sounds like the voltage is too low.

    With all injectors plugged in, the White/Red wire should hove over 20 volts while cranking, and it then jumps to 40-45 volts when the engine is running.

    I suspect you will find the White/Red wire voltage is below 20 volts while cranking. The injectors will not actually inject fuel with less than 20 volts.

    If you have access to a spare EMM, connect the 12 and 8 pin connections to the spare EMM. If the engine starts, then your EMM has a failure in the 45 volt power circuits.

    If the engine does not start, then also connect the large 40-pin connector to the spare EMM. If it starts, then the disconnected EMM is bad.

    If it still does not start, the problem is in the stator (especially if you do not have an ohm reading on one of the coils).

    If stator coils are actually good, then the flywheel magnets could have become loose.


    FYI: You can read and reset trouble codes without using Digital Wrench or a laptop computer;
    How to read Polaris Ficht EMM trouble codes without special software or a computer


    Also have a look at this;
    Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines

  10. #10
    way2much2do's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I have been off-line for a couple of days, just saw this thread

    FYI: You can read and reset trouble codes without using Digital Wrench or a laptop computer;
    How to read Polaris Ficht EMM trouble codes without special software or a computer


    You are THE MAN!!!! How did I miss this???


    Also have a look at this;
    Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines
    Nice job!!

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