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  1. #1

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    Jul 2009
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    Polaris Genesis complete rebuild/Did i mess this up??

    When i installed the stator cover or whatever you call that (the casing that attaches right to the crankcases that uses no gasket with 4 bolts) i used Loctite 515 sealant gasket eliminator "flexes with flanges" and noticed that my manual said to use Loctite 515 gasket eliminator on the flywheel cover which my manual does not say stator cover. it just says flywheel cover. i notice that this stuff is like a red grease and is not drying like a permatex would. I probably should have used the same stuff i used on my crankcases but this Clymers manual is throwing me off on too many things and having me go back and forth all over the place(I do not recommend these manuals)
    I have the flywheel puller. Should i go ahead and go back and take everything back off and start over with the stator case that attaches to the crankcase.
    And what is this stuff meant for i used on there? It said dries in 1-8 hours and its been over 24 hours. Any suggestions/ Thanks.


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by markdgenesis View Post
    When i installed the stator cover or whatever you call that (the casing that attaches right to the crankcases that uses no gasket with 4 bolts) i used Loctite 515 sealant gasket eliminator "flexes with flanges" and noticed that my manual said to use Loctite 515 gasket eliminator on the flywheel cover which my manual does not say stator cover. it just says flywheel cover. i notice that this stuff is like a red grease and is not drying like a permatex would. I probably should have used the same stuff i used on my crankcases but this Clymers manual is throwing me off on too many things and having me go back and forth all over the place(I do not recommend these manuals)
    I have the flywheel puller. Should i go ahead and go back and take everything back off and start over with the stator case that attaches to the crankcase.
    And what is this stuff meant for i used on there? It said dries in 1-8 hours and its been over 24 hours. Any suggestions/ Thanks.
    UPDATE:::


    I took off the flywheel outer cover off and used my sbt flywheel remover and i went in just far enough without damaging the stator and one bolt kept on popping out and messing up the threads. I tried a few more times with no luck so this flywheel remover is not going to work. I have to get this off because this gasket sealer i used is obviously not the right stuff. Any suggestions/ take the whole motor to a place to remove it?? anyone?/ thanks.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    England.Great Britain . UK
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    276
    hi had same on my genesis. carefully heat around fly wheel near shaft with small gas burner, then quickly assemable puller, put tension on then tap single blows with hammer around sides of fly wheel. mine poped off

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Click below for the Polaris Service Manuals.

    Flywheel removal does require a good quality puller, and high strength bolts into the flywheel. Cheap pullers just cause you grief.

    It takes a lot of puller tension to get the flywheel to let go. Tighten it up as much as you dare, and let it sit. Often after a few minutes it will let go.

    If not, some folks apply a few meaningful hammer taps onto the end of the big puller bolt. Others apply torch heat around the flywheel near the shaft. Not too much heat, or you risk burning the crank shaft rubber seals.

    When it does let go, it can be violent, so don't get caught or hurt. Some guys have said their flywheel traveled clear across the shop from the engine on their work bench, so be prepared.

  5. #5

    Join Date
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    michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Click below for the Polaris Service Manuals.

    Flywheel removal does require a good quality puller, and high strength bolts into the flywheel. Cheap pullers just cause you grief.

    It takes a lot of puller tension to get the flywheel to let go. Tighten it up as much as you dare, and let it sit. Often after a few minutes it will let go.

    If not, some folks apply a few meaningful hammer taps onto the end of the big puller bolt. Others apply torch heat around the flywheel near the shaft. Not too much heat, or you risk burning the crank shaft rubber seals.

    When it does let go, it can be violent, so don't get caught or hurt. Some guts have said their flywheel traveled clear across the shop from the engine on their work bench, so be prepared.

    Hi, Thanks for the advise fellows. With my luck and getting this far to completion, and for $19.50 i will let the local dealer do it and have some peace of mind. I actually just talked to them and will probably have them retap the 3 holes as well.

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    right stuff gasket material

    I'm a huge fan of this stuff now...huge. You'll want to invest in a good quality flywheel puller for your polaris, you no doubt be in there again at some point. A hair dryer can help slowly heat the flywheel up to allow a removal without dealing with a torch oh-so-near to the fuel tank..but typically an hour and a few hammer taps is all I've needed to get off the most stubborn flywheel ( the award belongs to a seadoo 787 engine..I though tthat one was never going to come off, even with the uber studly seadoo puller on the job)..sounded like a gunshot when it finally popped off.

    trick to flywheel pulling with a universal is lubing the entire affair up well with graphite powder prior to putting a big ole impact gun on it. Getting the screws in evenly is trick #2. I wrap teflon tape around the screws at the expected allowable depth to make sure they are as even as possible. Being off as little as 1/16 can make it an all day affair.

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