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  1. #1
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Where do I get replacements for the needle grease fittings?

    I just bought a grease gun and needle for greasing up my sl650, and I don't know what the problem is but I got grease everywhere except where it needs to go.

    been looking around for the nipple fittings, but cannot seem to find any...anyone got a line on where to get them? a part number would be helpful as well.


  2. #2
    way2much2do's Avatar
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    If you want a regular zerk grease fitting, you can go to almost any auto parts store. Napa as well as Murray's/O'Reilly's sells them.

  3. #3
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Usually the zirk fitting is right next to the needle adapter you bought.

    Did you push it all the way into the fitting hole I assume?

  4. #4
    ujustlost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by way2much2do View Post
    If you want a regular zerk grease fitting, you can go to almost any auto parts store. Napa as well as Murray's/O'Reilly's sells them.
    Bill is right,a zerk fitting is the only way to go.

  5. #5
    If it has the older style coupler will a zerk fitting fit inside the plastic shroud?

    I got my needle fitting at my local Pep Boys. I'll see if I can find a part number for you.

  6. #6
    ujustlost's Avatar
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    It fits in my 94 sl650, not sure about 92 or 93 but would imagine it would work just fine

  7. #7
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    I got this thing at Sears, and their selection was rather poor. I did try a few auto parts stores and did not have much luck.

    there is a napa down the street though so I will try there next.

    either the fittings are frozen or I simply have the wrong type of "needle"...I can't get it to "inject". plenty of grease in the hull now though.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    ... either the fittings are frozen or I simply have the wrong type of "needle"...I can't get it to "inject"...
    Unscrew the fitting from the bearing/coupler, and clean it out.

    Sometimes dried grease and dirt will stick the check ball in place in the fitting.

    Give it a good soak in solvent, then make sure the check ball will actually move

  9. #9
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    kudos to k447...I went to napa and found that I would have to spend more than I was willing, so I grabbed a different style of needle adaptor for my grease gun while I was there figuring I could take another stab at it.

    I went to work on cleaning out the fittings and sure enough they were stuck. what a difference lubrication makes to the noise level of the engine!!! my guess is that the previous owner never did this. >_>

    new question though: as I was greasing the coupler fitting, I stopped at the point where the rubber "cone" started pushing out as stated in the service manual, but I noticed that the metal bar (coupler? shaft? whatever) that the rubber cone surrounds started pushing back towards the pump.

    uh, did I just do something wrong? or will the forward momentum of the impeller push it back in place?

    this is probably a noob question, but seeing that shaft move kinda freaked me out.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    ...as I was greasing the coupler fitting, I stopped at the point where the rubber "cone" started pushing out as stated in the service manual, but I noticed that the metal bar (coupler? shaft? whatever) that the rubber cone surrounds started pushing back towards the pump.

    ...seeing that shaft move kinda freaked me out.
    What year is your SL 650?

    How much movement of the drive shaft are we talking about?

    Normally there are small rubber bumper pads on each end of the drive shaft, and the drive shaft has very little room to slide forward and aft.

    If the rubber bumpers are missing or damaged, then the shaft will have more room to move than normal.

    The best way to check the bumpers is to remove the drive shaft (which means removing the jet pump), and visually inspect.

    If you have never removed the jet pump and checked the impeller bearings, now might be a good time. Every original part on your machine is well over ten years old.

    Rubber seals wear and dry out with age, ball bearings wear and allow the shafts to wobble, which wears the seals faster, which allows water into the bearings, which rusts the bearings.

    As long as you do not break any bolts, removing the jet pump isn't that much work. The first time, you may feel like it is a battle to get things apart, since they tend to get stuck together.

    Once you have done it once or twice, you can remove and reinstall a jet pump in under 1/2 hour.

    The 1992-1993 jet pumps are a one piece design (146mm impeller diameter). 1994 onwards have a modular jet pump design, which is a better and more efficient. The newer 148mm modular jet pumps can be installed on the older hulls.

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