07-24-2009, 08:15 PM #1
Does your Polaris have water-cooled pump bearings?
So, I took the SLT750 out today for it's maiden voyage with the extended pump. I've owned the machine for about a year now. Ever since I bought it, it's made a metallic rattling sound at idle. I assumed it was the coupler gone dry.
When I was installing the pump extension a few days ago, I added plenty-o-grease to both the coupler and the inside of the impeller. I also spun the impeller by hand and thought the bearings might be slightly questionable. Since I don't ride much, I figured it would last the rest of the season and I'd take care of it this winter.
Today, I noticed the noise sounded different. Instead of sounding like a metallic rattle, it sounded like a bearing going bad. I racked my brain thinking what I could have done to cause a problem and just couldn't come up with anything. I rode it for only a short while, before putting it back on the trailer.
When I got home, I decided to pull it apart. When I pulled the nose cone off the pump, it was FILLED with water. The seals were so rusty, I could barely make out what was in there!!
So.....I presume water's not supposed to be in there, right?
I'm going to get two new bearings and two new seals in the morning. It's odd that Polaris uses two seals next to each other on the impeller side. I checked the O-ring at the nose cone and it looks good, so when I re-assemble it, I'm going to smear a gob of RTV around the nose cone-to-pump interface with the hopes of keeping water from entering there in the future.
Any other advice from you seasoned pump-bearin'-replacin' experts?
07-24-2009, 09:18 PM #2
One suggestion...before you put the bearings in, place them in the freezer for awhile. This will shrink them just a tad and will help them fit right in the pump stator. Also, if you can warm up the pump stator a bit, this will help even more...use like heat lamps or a hair dryer/heat gun.
07-24-2009, 10:06 PM #3
I just worked on two stator sections today. One was from a 97' sl 1050 and the other from my 00' 1200 slx. The one from the 97 had water in there. The one from the slx didn't. The difference was the 1200 has a rubber seal that goes between the cone and the stator besides the o-ring and the 1050 doesn't. Guess what i'll be ordering for the 1050. The part number for the seal is 5811984 right from polaris. It costs $2.37.
07-24-2009, 10:44 PM #4
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
When the stator bearings start to fail, they allow the stub shaft to wobble. The abnormal shaft motion wears the stub shaft seals behind the impeller, and allows (more) water in. The bearings then rust and die in an accelerated manner.
If you even suspect that the impeller bearings are no good, that is why you want to replace them ASAP. The bearings will fail rapidly once they start to go.
There are two seals stacked behind the impeller because that is the critical seal zone for keeping water out of the bearings. Make sure the short metal spacer that the seals ride on is still 100% smooth and flat surfaced (no grooves or dings), or the new seals will not last long.
I think you can retro-fit the 5811984 flat rubber seal under the tail cone, but the O-ring is still the primary seal for the tail cone. If there is any question, install a new O-ring.
And check that the tail cone surface is clean and smooth, for a good seal with the O-ring.
07-25-2009, 07:16 AM #5
07-25-2009, 07:34 AM #6
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Elephant Butte New Mexico
use loctite 518
don't use rtv to seal a pump, you can use 518 to seal the pump-nozzle joint too
07-25-2009, 07:41 AM #7
Everything on the 1050 pump was new including the o-ring since i bought a new 6 vein and had to put everything into it a few years back. Even with the new o-ring it still leaked water in by the tail cone. I know it came in by the tailcone because i have that area packed with grease and the grease was still smeared onto the bearing seals but the water was sitting on top of the grease, so i know it didn't come thru the front seals in my case. The 1200 i just bought in june and the guy never touched the pump on that one, infact i just bought a new stator to replace that one because it was damaged from rocks. That one was bone dry and it has the seal. Anyway i think either the seal i posted or RTV will take care of the problem.
07-25-2009, 10:34 AM #8
07-25-2009, 11:21 AM #9
RTV works just fine...just make sure the surfaces are really clean.
07-25-2009, 11:29 AM #10
I cleaned everything really good with carb cleaner last night.
Bearings and seals are in the freezer now.
Going to a birthday party. When I get home, I'm going put the stator in the wife's oven for a little while before I re-assemble.
Thanks again to everyone for the help and input!!!
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