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  1. #1
    way2much2do's Avatar
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    Does your Polaris have water-cooled pump bearings?

    So, I took the SLT750 out today for it's maiden voyage with the extended pump. I've owned the machine for about a year now. Ever since I bought it, it's made a metallic rattling sound at idle. I assumed it was the coupler gone dry.

    When I was installing the pump extension a few days ago, I added plenty-o-grease to both the coupler and the inside of the impeller. I also spun the impeller by hand and thought the bearings might be slightly questionable. Since I don't ride much, I figured it would last the rest of the season and I'd take care of it this winter.

    Today, I noticed the noise sounded different. Instead of sounding like a metallic rattle, it sounded like a bearing going bad. I racked my brain thinking what I could have done to cause a problem and just couldn't come up with anything. I rode it for only a short while, before putting it back on the trailer.

    When I got home, I decided to pull it apart. When I pulled the nose cone off the pump, it was FILLED with water. The seals were so rusty, I could barely make out what was in there!!

    So.....I presume water's not supposed to be in there, right?

    I'm going to get two new bearings and two new seals in the morning. It's odd that Polaris uses two seals next to each other on the impeller side. I checked the O-ring at the nose cone and it looks good, so when I re-assemble it, I'm going to smear a gob of RTV around the nose cone-to-pump interface with the hopes of keeping water from entering there in the future.

    Any other advice from you seasoned pump-bearin'-replacin' experts?


  2. #2
    AWA Member 32DegH2O's Avatar
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    One suggestion...before you put the bearings in, place them in the freezer for awhile. This will shrink them just a tad and will help them fit right in the pump stator. Also, if you can warm up the pump stator a bit, this will help even more...use like heat lamps or a hair dryer/heat gun.

  3. #3
    1FASTXC's Avatar
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    I just worked on two stator sections today. One was from a 97' sl 1050 and the other from my 00' 1200 slx. The one from the 97 had water in there. The one from the slx didn't. The difference was the 1200 has a rubber seal that goes between the cone and the stator besides the o-ring and the 1050 doesn't. Guess what i'll be ordering for the 1050. The part number for the seal is 5811984 right from polaris. It costs $2.37.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by way2much2do View Post
    ...spun the impeller by hand and thought the bearings might be slightly questionable...

    ...When I pulled the nose cone off the pump, it was FILLED with water. The seals were so rusty, I could barely make out what was in there!

    ...It's odd that Polaris uses two seals next to each other on the impeller side.

    I checked the O-ring at the nose cone and it looks good, so when I re-assemble it, I'm going to smear a gob of RTV around the nose cone-to-pump interface with the hopes of keeping water from entering there in the future...
    Without looking at your tail cone O-ring, I am thinking that the water came in through the front seals, not the rear.

    When the stator bearings start to fail, they allow the stub shaft to wobble. The abnormal shaft motion wears the stub shaft seals behind the impeller, and allows (more) water in. The bearings then rust and die in an accelerated manner.

    If you even suspect that the impeller bearings are no good, that is why you want to replace them ASAP. The bearings will fail rapidly once they start to go.

    There are two seals stacked behind the impeller because that is the critical seal zone for keeping water out of the bearings. Make sure the short metal spacer that the seals ride on is still 100% smooth and flat surfaced (no grooves or dings), or the new seals will not last long.

    I think you can retro-fit the 5811984 flat rubber seal under the tail cone, but the O-ring is still the primary seal for the tail cone. If there is any question, install a new O-ring.

    And check that the tail cone surface is clean and smooth, for a good seal with the O-ring.

  5. #5
    way2much2do's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Without looking at your tail cone O-ring, I am thinking that the water came in through the front seals, not the rear.

    When the stator bearings start to fail, they allow the stub shaft to wobble. The abnormal shaft motion wears the stub shaft seals behind the impeller, and allows (more) water in. The bearings then rust and die in an accelerated manner.

    That makes perfect sense. The o-ring is probably fine....evidenced by the fact it didn't let any water OUT. I should have thought of this.

    If you even suspect that the impeller bearings are no good, that is why you want to replace them ASAP. The bearings will fail rapidly once they start to go.

    There are two seals stacked behind the impeller because that is the critical seal zone for keeping water out of the bearings. Make sure the short metal spacer that the seals ride on is still 100% smooth and flat surfaced (no grooves or dings), or the new seals will not last long.

    Double seals just for an added measure to prevent water intrusion (if some is good, more is better?)

    Checked that spacer and it looked good with one exception.....it appears to have slighly chamfered edges on both sides. I'm guessing this is to help installation - sort of tapered so it doesn't damage the seal when you push it in? One of those chamfered edges was a little rusty - only about 1/32" in.....I cleaned it with some emery cloth. I don't think this is critical, since it's not the part that interfaces with the seals.

    I think you can retro-fit the 5811984 flat rubber seal under the tail cone, but the O-ring is still the primary seal for the tail cone. If there is any question, install a new O-ring.

    And check that the tail cone surface is clean and smooth, for a good seal with the O-ring.

    The o-ring looked perfect to me....I don't think I'll buy that flat seal. I think I'm going to let RTV fix this for me. I trust it more than I do a rubber seal and an o-ring. Besides, based on the fact that the nose cone was dry as a bone sitting on the trailer and when I cracked it open, several ounces of water poured out, I'd say the nose cone o-ring is fine.

    I like you're theory. Water almost surely came in through the rear. Now that I think about it, that first seal was REALLY rusty. I mean it was unrecognizable when I took it out. Maybe that, combined with the ever-so-slight shaft wobble was part of the problem. Just glad I decided to fix it before it grenaded and forced me to buy an entire pump!!
    Thanks 1FASTXC and 32DegH2O for your tips as well!!!! I'll put them to use on re-install.

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    use loctite 518

    don't use rtv to seal a pump, you can use 518 to seal the pump-nozzle joint too

  7. #7
    1FASTXC's Avatar
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    Everything on the 1050 pump was new including the o-ring since i bought a new 6 vein and had to put everything into it a few years back. Even with the new o-ring it still leaked water in by the tail cone. I know it came in by the tailcone because i have that area packed with grease and the grease was still smeared onto the bearing seals but the water was sitting on top of the grease, so i know it didn't come thru the front seals in my case. The 1200 i just bought in june and the guy never touched the pump on that one, infact i just bought a new stator to replace that one because it was damaged from rocks. That one was bone dry and it has the seal. Anyway i think either the seal i posted or RTV will take care of the problem.

  8. #8
    way2much2do's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    don't use rtv to seal a pump, you can use 518 to seal the pump-nozzle joint too
    Just curious...what's wrong with RTV on the nose cone????

    Quote Originally Posted by 1FASTXC View Post
    Everything on the 1050 pump was new including the o-ring since i bought a new 6 vein and had to put everything into it a few years back. Even with the new o-ring it still leaked water in by the tail cone. I know it came in by the tailcone because i have that area packed with grease and the grease was still smeared onto the bearing seals but the water was sitting on top of the grease, so i know it didn't come thru the front seals in my case. The 1200 i just bought in june and the guy never touched the pump on that one, infact i just bought a new stator to replace that one because it was damaged from rocks. That one was bone dry and it has the seal. Anyway i think either the seal i posted or RTV will take care of the problem.

    In my case, I think K447 got it right. I think it came in through the front seals, not through the nose cone. After thinking about it, the nose cone was holding the water in.
    Thanks for the feedback guys. Definitely going to seal up the nose cone with something when I re-assemble.

  9. #9
    AWA Member 32DegH2O's Avatar
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    RTV works just fine...just make sure the surfaces are really clean.

  10. #10
    way2much2do's Avatar
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    I cleaned everything really good with carb cleaner last night.

    Bearings and seals are in the freezer now.

    Going to a birthday party. When I get home, I'm going put the stator in the wife's oven for a little while before I re-assemble.

    Thanks again to everyone for the help and input!!!

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