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  1. #1

    Ultra 260x ... GIO ???

    I have an 08' Ultra 250x ... got the GIO bad ... just noticed at 40 hours, may have been there since day 1. Had severe power loss so took it in to the dealer, found out about the spark plug issue, I had 2 bad ones ... so was basically hitting on 2 cylinders and dumping gas into the other 2 ... which found its way to the oil ... lovely !!! I'm currently going down the road with my dealer and Kawasaki to document this, etc... but I'm not betting that Kaw will step up based on what I have heard so far ... ok, so here is my question ... considering trading in my 08' to the dealer and upgrading to a new 09' Ultra 260x ... has anyone heard of the GIO issue with this new ski ? I have heard they replaced the ring design and made some other changes which eliminates this GIO problem? Don't want to chase bad money with good money. Other option is to go Yamaha FZR or FZS and leave Kaw until they can get their act together. Thanks.


  2. #2
    halfassjack's Avatar
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    2009 has same rings....new pistons.

  3. #3
    If Kawasaki will not stand behind it I sure would not get another, no matter how much I like the ski. I know if mine has issues and they won't fix it its gone and I will buy another brand. I have read on here guys that have hundreds of hours, no problems, others seem to keep having major issues. I like my ski but reading some of these post makes me a little worried if I bought the right brand and model? JMHO

  4. #4
    wolftrader's Avatar
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    GIO (Gas in oil)

    Prior to buying my 2008 Ultra 250x I was aware of the potential for gio. When I experienced it on mine, I wasn't surprised, but had hoped I wouldn't have that problem.....

    I chose to change the oil after nearly every tank of fuel, chalking it up to a high performance machine. (LOVE the Moeller vacuum device for removing the oil from the ski, best $$ a guy can spend)

    When the OCMS (Oil Contamination Management System) was available through 4-tec Performance, I purchased it. (I don't believe it is available now) OCMS places a small spigot / valve in place of the return hose located on the bottom of the catch can. There really isn't an elegant way to drain it, basically I stuff a wad of paper towels under the spigot every couple tanks of fuel and drain about 1/4 cup of crap out of the catch can. (I tried using small containers to catch the fluid when I opened the drain, but always ended up spilling some trying to snake it out through the hoses / wires) While the OCMS unit was very well built (nice, high quality aluminum valve) you can easily create something that will work with a trip to the local hardware store.... you are just looking for a way to drain the catch can, nothing fancy. I have had no issues with oil contamination after this fix.

    I really like my boat and have no regrets in purchasing it. We ride quite a bit with a variety of boats from other manufacturers, basically they all have some process that users follow to keep their boats running well, draining the catch can for me has just become part of my process.

    Steve

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by wolftrader View Post
    Prior to buying my 2008 Ultra 250x I was aware of the potential for gio. When I experienced it on mine, I wasn't surprised, but had hoped I wouldn't have that problem.....

    I chose to change the oil after nearly every tank of fuel, chalking it up to a high performance machine. (LOVE the Moeller vacuum device for removing the oil from the ski, best $$ a guy can spend)

    When the OCMS (Oil Contamination Management System) was available through 4-tec Performance, I purchased it. (I don't believe it is available now) OCMS places a small spigot / valve in place of the return hose located on the bottom of the catch can. There really isn't an elegant way to drain it, basically I stuff a wad of paper towels under the spigot every couple tanks of fuel and drain about 1/4 cup of crap out of the catch can. (I tried using small containers to catch the fluid when I opened the drain, but always ended up spilling some trying to snake it out through the hoses / wires) While the OCMS unit was very well built (nice, high quality aluminum valve) you can easily create something that will work with a trip to the local hardware store.... you are just looking for a way to drain the catch can, nothing fancy. I have had no issues with oil contamination after this fix.

    I really like my boat and have no regrets in purchasing it. We ride quite a bit with a variety of boats from other manufacturers, basically they all have some process that users follow to keep their boats running well, draining the catch can for me has just become part of my process.

    Steve
    +1. I have two 07 250X's, one race craft and one training craft. I change the oil on the trainer craft all the time.... I get a good, inexpensive oil and change VERY frequently. For me it is peace of mind.... I too accept it as a byproduct of a performance craft. I understand GIO has been improved dramatically in the 09.

    Note - I change the oil in the race craft with brand new synthetic before every race - that craft lives in the garage.

  6. #6
    wolftrader,

    where is the catch can exactly and how or what would be needed to create the drain, thanks for any help.

    also the Moller vac pump is this it? does it come with a tube small enough to get down the dip stick and if so how much oil can be removed? My dealer said he changed my oil and filter at 10 hours and they only get about 2 qts out doing a change, if that is true the any new oil is getting contaminated by the oil left since my manual says this thing holds about 4 qts if I read it correct. thx mike

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
    wolftrader's Avatar
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    Catch Can

    Quote Originally Posted by Fulldrawmike View Post
    wolftrader,

    where is the catch can exactly and how or what would be needed to create the drain, thanks for any help.

    also the Moller vac pump is this it? does it come with a tube small enough to get down the dip stick and if so how much oil can be removed? My dealer said he changed my oil and filter at 10 hours and they only get about 2 qts out doing a change, if that is true the any new oil is getting contaminated by the oil left since my manual says this thing holds about 4 qts if I read it correct. thx mike

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mike,

    Yes, that is the Moeller unit that I have, (West Marine and elsewhere) comes with two sizes of tube to go down the dipstick, works like a charm and removes virtually all of the oil in one shot, you will fill that Moeller tank which has a 4 liter capacity. (1 liter = 1.056 quarts) (some oil will be in the oil filter, pick up a filter wrench at Walmart for $4, the cap style that fits over the end of the filter and uses a 3/8 ratchet) 4.2qts with filter change. (I use a small torpedo level on my engine to make sure the engine is level, this ensures I get as much oil as possible out of my engine)

    Filter and Oil I use:

    Kawasaki Oil Filter for 2008 Ultra 250x = PN 16097-0003

    Kawasaki 4 Cycle Motorcyle Oil, 10W-40 (meets JASO MA spec)

    The catch can is located at the rear of the motor, between the engine and supercharger. Looking at the engine shot, note the small red valve in the lower left of the picture at the rear of the engine, that is the OCMS spigot connected to the bottom of the catch can. If doing this yourself, you would need to:
    1. Remove the hose from the bottom of the catch can to the engine and keep for the future in case you need to replace it.
    2. Pick up a foot of matching hose from an auto supply place. (gas line suitable)
    3. Attach a short section to the engine side with a PLUG clamped to it to seal it, this was the way that gas could get back to your crankcase. (two clamps, one where the hose connects to the engine, one where the plug connects to that section of hose)
    4. Take the other piece of hose to a Home Depot and find a valve that will fit on your hose, I'd prefer a simple, easy to operate ball valve that is open when the lever is in line with the hose and closed when at a 90 degree angle. (In the picture of my red valve, the small spigot is on the bottom and the red piece is rotated in a circle like opening a bottle, it is a pain since it takes several rotations in a small space and the valve tends to get slippery)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
    wolftrader's Avatar
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    Valve

    This is the type of valve I envision to create an OCMS, it is listed as a Dapco Fuel Shut-off valve. I don't know the size hose it uses, but something along these lines would work.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9
    Thanks for the info Wolf, this is a super site to learn the ins and outs of our ski and I am glad I found the site. have a good day. Mike

  10. #10
    04DarkShadowGT's Avatar
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    All that I know is if I had to change the oil every tank of fuel I would be selling the jetski. That is ridiculous.

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