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  1. #1

    Where to Hook Up Flush?

    Guys. '93 SL 750.

    I repaired the head gasket and reseated a loosed stud. Replaced battery. Got her to fire about 10 minutes ago.

    Where and how do I hook up a hose to flush? Cannot find info. I've done many times with an outboard, I don't see how this thing works.

    I need to warm her up.

    Thanks.

    I see a possible candidate underneath, behing the intake grate. Seems hard to get to.


  2. #2
    la90043's Avatar
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    There is a plug on the water rail on top of the cylinders/pistons. Screw that out. Replace that big ole hole with the flush kit.

    its number 3 here http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/...ype=13&A=8&B=7

  3. #3
    Got it. I think. I was looking for something different, not a stubbed-off hose. I guess that was it, there was a short hose down below w/ a garden hose fitting and plug on it. Pulled the plug and hooked up, it flushed water out the exhaust. Not what the photo shows, I hope I wasn't wrong. .....................

    Thanks.

    Ran her for about 5 minutes, all seemed fine. Sound. Smoke. Fuel and electrical system seem to be fine.

    The fore cylinder head sure seems to run hotter than the others. That is the one that failed the gasket in the first place. It is discolored, too. If I has to guess 200 F plus to the touch. It seems as though the cylinder heads run cooler as you go to the back. Is this normal? Is that the result of water flow? Can the engine be full of sand or something? Is this a problem?

    No water leaks, she is probably good to go on the water. ???. That will be in a week or so, headed out of town tomorrow.

  4. #4
    I hope that wasn't a winterizing drain or something. It went the same place, but probably after the fact. Oops.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jocko_nc View Post
    Got it. I think. I was looking for something different, not a stubbed-off hose. I guess that was it, there was a short hose down below w/ a garden hose fitting and plug on it. Pulled the plug and hooked up, it flushed water out the exhaust. Not what the photo shows, I hope I wasn't wrong. .....................

    Thanks.

    Ran her for about 5 minutes, all seemed fine. Sound. Smoke. Fuel and electrical system seem to be fine.

    The fore cylinder head sure seems to run hotter than the others. That is the one that failed the gasket in the first place. It is discolored, too. If I has to guess 200 F plus to the touch. It seems as though the cylinder heads run cooler as you go to the back. Is this normal? Is that the result of water flow? Can the engine be full of sand or something? Is this a problem?

    No water leaks, she is probably good to go on the water. ???. That will be in a week or so, headed out of town tomorrow.
    The Reverse Flush connection on the water manifold bar is meant for short duration engine running while the water jacket is reverse flushed to remove sand or whatever may be in there.

    It is not designed to provide full engine cooling, and it doesn't. The front cylinder (MAG) usually gets very little water flow during reverse flush.

    In general, you do not want to run the engine on the hose for more than a minute, two minutes at the most.

    Not only does the engine not receive proper cooling, but the jet pump and through-hull seals receive zero cooling when running on the hose. After a couple of minutes, those seals will start to overheat, which can shorten the seal life, or cause the sealing lips to completely melt.

  6. #6
    Good info. Thanks. I only ran it for about a minute at a time. That explains why the cylinder was warm.

    Thanks.

    I assume you mean exhaust thru-hulls. I see the point to that.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jocko_nc View Post
    ... I assume you mean exhaust thru-hulls...
    I mean the through-hull seals where the drive shaft exits the hull, right behind the PTO drive shaft coupler on the engine.

    There is one seal on the engine side, and two more seals on the water side of that through-hull bearing, with a greased bushing in the middle.

    Then there are two more seals in the jet pump, right behind the impeller, where the impeller stub shaft supports the impeller.

    All these seals depend on the water flowing through the jet pump for cooling. The water also cools the drive shaft, which keeps the inner seals cool.

    You should always grease the through-hull bearing with good quality waterproof marine bearing grease before running it on the hose. The grease helps keep the seals cool by reducing friction.

    I normally inject grease until I start to see some oozing out around the front seal, unless I know there is already lots of grease in there, Then I just give it a little squeeze from the grease gun.

    If you inject some grease, and water comes out the seals, then keep injecting grease until the water stops. Then pump more grease in after each ride, until you do not see water coming out.

    These shaft seals are not expensive, and not that hard to replace. If there is any question about your seals, plan to replace them.

    Seal part numbers and sizes can be found in the links from my signature.
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