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  1. #1

    2004 GTI died, Won't start- HELP!

    I am trying to figure out what is wrong with my 2004 Seadoo GTI with a 717 motor.

    I bought it last year at the end of the season. It was a repo, so I know very little about it. It ran great and had good compression 130 psi on my cheap gauge in both cylinders. Ski looked very clean inside and out. I winterized the GTI (fogging, antifreeze, battery, etc. per the instructions).

    In spring I summarized it, started it up on the hose and ran fine. Took off seat and it had a lot of water in the hull. Ran it again with the seat off and water was leaking out of the side of the pump end cylinder jug, just above the exhaust. Cracked cylinder jug. Must have froze. Donít know how, since I put a lot of antifreeze in it. I bought a used jug on ebay. Swapped the cylinder sleeves by heating them in the oven to 400 for Ĺ hour. They both slipped right out and the good sleeve slipped right into the used jug easily. Aligned the bolt hole pattern/ports and I put it in a vice with some pressure on it to let it cool. Seemed to work great. Both cylinders and pistons had some scoring on the intake side of the pistons. I used some 220 grit paper on a block with some injection oil to just knock of any high spots on the pistons. Cleaned and lubed everything with injection oil and reassembled engine per manual. Started and ran great, no external leaks! I donít know if this problem relates to what happened next-

    I ran about one whole tank through it at the beginning of summer with no problems. Filled it up on July 4th and hit the water. My wifeís cousins were riding it and it just died (ran about Ĺ hour that day). The driver said it just suddenly sputtered and died, would not restart. They towed it back with my other ski (they did not know to block the water inlet). They went slow towing it in. I pulled the plugs, cranked it, no water came out of cylinders. New plugs in it. Cranked and cranked, no start. Battery was getting low after a while. At home, I pulled the plugs, fogged the engine through the plugs and intake. Plugs had some moisture on them. Charged battery. Good spark. Compression is 130 in both cylinders. Cleaned fuel filter (some minor stuff, not plugged). Pulled flame arrester. Can see accelerator pump squirt fuel when throttle pushed.

    Engine would run very poorly (below a normal idle rpm) for few seconds if I chocked it heavily and cranked a while. Pulled plugs. Put a couple drops of fuel in cylinders. Will fire on the few drops of gas in the cylinders (just a few revolutions), then die.

    What do I check next? Could the rotary valve drive gear have failed? How do I check this without disassembly? Where do I go from here? Please help!

  2. #2
    If you get a 'Double-Beep" when you install the Lanyard Key, then check the Rear Electrical Box. It should be bone dry inside. That is where your Coil is located

    > Fuel

    .... Need to have all three to kick over a two-stroke engine

    If if Rear Electrical Box is Dry (no rust on Grounding lugs either) then check the Battery for a solid 12.5+ vdc. If it was fully charged before and less than a full charge now, I would next look at the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier Module which supplies recharge DC Voltage to your Battery, but, also supplies the high energy Charge to your CDI Ignition Coil. If the Coil doesn't get a high enough "pre-charge", then it wont discharge a "hot" enough Spark to light off the Cylinders, especially when trying to start a cold engine. But if/when it does start and you can feather the throttle to a higher rpm, the Coil seems to come to life, only to load up and bogg down at mid./lower range rpms. I just finsihed troubleshooting this exact problem. Combination intermittant CDI Ignition Coil, superimposed on a bad R/R Module and (1) bad Spark Plug Boot not making good contact to the inner core of the Spark Plug Wire. Check those as well...


  3. #3
    RValve should be fine unless you dis-assembled/removed the RValve Cover and RValve Plate (4 bolts) and didn't time it correctly

    .... or some "hard foreign object" went down the throat of the Carb. and jammed it. That's why they call that the "sacrificial" Gear. Usually, if that Bronze Helical Drive Gear is jammed against the hardened Steel Gear in the center of the Crankshaft, the Bronze Gear will have a shaved deep divet taken out of it and you will see Bronze filings in the bottom of the large Oil Hose next to and downstream from the Oil filter which is on the smaller Oil Hose. Hope that isn't your problem or a complete rebuild would be needed.

    did you count all the Carb. Bracket lock washers ?


  4. #4
    .... one other thing unique to that year/model ski is a "Cut-Off Relay",, also found in the Rear electrical Box.

    They have been known to go bad.

    ITEM # 54

    Hope this all helps get you back on the water.

    Welcome to 4-Tec Performance


  5. #5

    I will do some checking-

    Thanks for the ideas of where to go next. I will look at these things and post what I find. It will have to be later in the week. Thanks-

  6. #6

    Rotary valve failed

    I did a bunch of checks and still thought it must be the rotary valve. Pulled the cover and sure enough, the rotary valve was not rotating. I can spin the crank and spin the valve and it will catch and rotate back to the same spot and then stop. The brass gear is stripped. The valve plate has a big score line/dent around it, so it must have ingested something metal. I don't know how. I guess I need a new SBT engine and rotary valve. The cover also has a score mark in it so I probably need one of those too.


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