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  1. #1

    '03 GTX SC distress call

    Hi. I am new to this site and I really could use some help. I am located about and hour west of Pittsburgh. Long story, but here goes a simple run down.
    Stock GTX SC, 2003.
    Top speed of appr. 50, with Rpms at 6900. While on trailer, I can rev it to the limiter easily.
    OPAS block off installed, no slipping in sc, and the compr is 125 x 3. new plugs, ran sea foam through a tank of high octane.
    UMMM, not sure if I am leaving something out.
    stock pump. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Oh, ran it with and without seats, no difference. No codes either.
    oil level is right in the middle.
    sea doo dealer sold me, xps syn blend. black container with red writing. is this correct oil? Thanks a bunch for reading.


  2. #2
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cafloh View Post
    Hi. I am new to this site and I really could use some help. I am located about and hour west of Pittsburgh. Long story, but here goes a simple run down.
    Stock GTX SC, 2003.
    Top speed of appr. 50, with Rpms at 6900. While on trailer, I can rev it to the limiter easily.
    OPAS block off installed, no slipping in sc, and the compr is 125 x 3. new plugs, ran sea foam through a tank of high octane.
    UMMM, not sure if I am leaving something out.
    stock pump. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Oh, ran it with and without seats, no difference. No codes either.
    oil level is right in the middle.
    sea doo dealer sold me, xps syn blend. black container with red writing. is this correct oil? Thanks a bunch for reading.
    Welcome to the forum.
    that oil should be fine.
    Your ski max rpm is 7,600 rpm. It could easily be the heat and just a tad to much prop right now. Probably would be fine in cooler months and pull the rpm. Where do you ride?>?

  3. #3
    Bow chicka wow wow
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    Quote Originally Posted by skoepp View Post
    Welcome to the forum.
    that oil should be fine.
    Your ski max rpm is 7,600 rpm. It could easily be the heat and just a tad to much prop right now. Probably would be fine in cooler months and pull the rpm. Where do you ride?>?
    Sell it for a S/C seadookie

  4. #4
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pirates81 View Post
    Sell it for a S/C seadookie

    It is super charged, just turning 7,600 rpm making 185 hp.

  5. #5
    lextoy's Avatar
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    welcome to GH.net!!!
    there was a exhaust leak correct?? but you found it and fixed it, a the coupler into the waterbox from the Jpipe.
    this engine was removed and rebuilt last yr and hasnt run right since, correct??
    this info might be important to those familiar with what needs to be done when a engine gets pulled to reset, possibly throttle position sensor?? or cam timing??

  6. #6
    lextoy's Avatar
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    anyone local to that area can take it for a test run to determine obviuos faults like excessive cavitiation, exhaust blockage...
    are you testing speeds with GPS?? maybe your speedo is just off???

  7. #7
    Hey Lex, ty
    Rebuild on motor, rebuild sc as well. And it did have an exhaust leak.
    I am gonna check with the soapy water around sc intake, and i am gonna turn around the wear ring. I am not sure if i will get to do this today.
    I ride on the Ohio River, on the days of riding (while diagnosing problems, not enjoyment riding), it was only about 78 with high humidity. Water temp 78 as well.
    Speedo is probably pretty accurate.
    I got beat by another doo.

  8. #8
    lextoy's Avatar
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    check the soapy water around the high pressure side of the SC, not the intake side
    there is a short hose curved, that goes from the SC to the throttle body(TB), it goes sorta above the oil cap.
    it should have a clamp on both sides, SC side and TB side. check those areas with soapy water.
    another easy test is squeeze that hose when the ski is idling, it should feel squishy, then rev the throttle, preferrably on the trailer out of the water, to 5000 rpm for 3 seconds. while revving, feel the hose, it should get harder to squeeze. that is the SC providing 6-7 psi of pressure/boost to the engine. if its not getting hard try it again to make sure.
    also check with soapy water the seam along the top of the SC, it is like two halves of a clamshell bolted together, they can leak along that seam.
    there is also a chance it could be a boost leak on the intake manifold itself, but i am not sure of best way to test for that. i have some idea, but best to let others chime in first.

  9. #9
    lextoy's Avatar
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    if you are gonna flip teh wear ring, you will need to predrill new pilot holes for the screws that hold it in, BEFORE you remove the wear ring, use the existing holes as a depth guide, measure thru the pump housing and into the wear ring,and mark the drill bit with some masking tape so you dont drill too deep. put the bit in old hole then wrap a small peice of tape onto bit. voila quickie depth gauge.
    then just slip the wear ring out from the housing, you can probalby do this leaving the impeller in. flip it around, slide it back in, use your taped drill bit and drill thru holes in housing into the wear ring to the right depth, and then put back in screws.
    hoepfully impeller doesnt bind up in new ring, especially not binding up where the screws tighten into the wear ring, if the impeller is binding where the screws are remove the screws try it without to see if it makes a differnece, then drill the holes just a hair deeper. then try again.
    the impeller might be kinda snug in the new ring, to the point that it might even "shave" a bit of material the first time you start it up.
    lubricate the wear ring on the inside with wd40 or grease before you bolt it back on, so the "shave" is as lubed as possible.
    last trick... to remove and replace the wear ring without taking off the impeller, put the entire pump into the freezer for like 2 hours. shrinkage. then the ring should just come right out. to put it back in, just put the wear ring in the freezer, put the pump in the sun, or in a hot car, etc. let the pump expand and the ring shrink... should slide back in, be careful to keep it straight. worst case you need to tap it in with a 2x4 across teh wear ring, and light taps with a hammer, if you have to start beating it hard, something isnt right, take it out, and go to plan B, remove the impeller

  10. #10
    lex, i think i could be falling in love with you!!!!! LOL
    I just got home from work, gonna grab a quick bite to eat, then down to the garage with my boyfriend. He is sick of me with this non stop questioning, about what could be wrong.
    I just want my toy running. I seriously appreciate your help, and I just printed this thread, gonna give it to boyfriend, and hopefully have a chance to try this thing out tonight.
    If it isnt the wear ring, or any loss out of the SC, then I really have to drop back and punt. wish me lots of luck. thanks again dude.

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