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  1. #1

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    replacing factory impellor with new Dynafly

    Has any one replaced there impellor that can give me a few pointers as i have never tryed this before. I am a car mechanic but, just looking for a few pointers.

    I have also ordered the C1-11 to be installed and again for anyone that has done this I would love to here from you as how you taked this.

    thanks to anyone resonding to my post

    sabretooth


  2. #2
    desperado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sabretooth30 View Post
    Has any one replaced there impellor that can give me a few pointers as i have never tryed this before. I am a car mechanic but, just looking for a few pointers.

    I have also ordered the C1-11 to be installed and again for anyone that has done this I would love to here from you as how you taked this.

    thanks to anyone resonding to my post

    sabretooth
    My experience switching from the oem impeller to the Dynafly was a 200rpm decrease -- that is with MoTec on C3. Oem impeller rpm was 8,425 and Dynafly rpm was around 8,250. Hope it helps.

  3. #3
    Taking money away from the Z06 Fund
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    Quote Originally Posted by sabretooth30 View Post
    Has any one replaced there impellor that can give me a few pointers as i have never tryed this before. I am a car mechanic but, just looking for a few pointers.

    I have also ordered the C1-11 to be installed and again for anyone that has done this I would love to here from you as how you taked this.

    thanks to anyone resonding to my post

    sabretooth
    I just installed the 13/22R Dynafly last week on my SHO. You can shoot me a PM with any questions you have. I still owe a post in the forum for my experience, tips, tricks etc. It's not difficult, but if you have never done it before, it could be puzzling at times what to do etc. After doing it though, I think I could do it again in maybe 30 minutes or so. Once that stock Impeller is off, it should be A LOT easier replacing the prop.

    Also, I noticed I lost about 200-250rpms with all of the Stage 1 Mods minus the Intake Manifold upgrade. After I installed the manifold upgrade and removed the Ribbon, I basically gained the RPMs back and it runs pretty good now. The Holeshot is a lot better as well.

    Jeff

  4. #4
    Addicted Member 5001craig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by poof100 View Post
    I just installed the 13/22R Dynafly last week on my SHO. You can shoot me a PM with any questions you have.

    Also, I noticed I lost about 200-250rpms with all of the Stage 1 Mods minus the Intake Manifold upgrade. After I installed the manifold upgrade and removed the Ribbon, I basically gained the RPMs back and it runs pretty good now. The Holeshot is a lot better as well.

    Jeff
    Nice post--thanks.

    Is there only one special tool needed to remove the prop (the Shaft Holding Tool)?

    Did you need heat to remove the prop from the drive shaft?

    Thanks.

  5. #5
    superair's Avatar
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    Yes you will need heat to remove the OEM prop. I used a 12" adjustable wrench, a propane torch and on the other end I believe it was a 1 1/8" socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet for the shaft and also you do need the shaft holding tool. This is what the socket is used on.

    Matt

  6. #6
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sabretooth30 View Post
    Has any one replaced there impellor that can give me a few pointers as i have never tryed this before. I am a car mechanic but, just looking for a few pointers.

    I have also ordered the C1-11 to be installed and again for anyone that has done this I would love to here from you as how you taked this.

    thanks to anyone resonding to my post

    sabretooth
    diagram & other links:
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...mpeller+remove
    You will need the shaft holding tool & the prop tool that was included with the impeller. The stock prop is 27mm...make sure to use a 6 pt closed end wrench, otherwise it can slip and/or collapse the front of the prop if using an adjustable or open end wrench. They are reverse threads on the impeller, so it will need to be turned clockwise...this is done to make the impeller self tightening. A big ass breaker bar will be your best friend for removal. If you are installing a Skat prop, the included tool is 1"...it's also easily collapsed if not using a closed end wrench. Solas props have a much beefier tool that can be torqued with an adjustable wrench. Make sure to apply some antisieze to the threads before installing the new prop. Also, don't forget to seal the pump to the wear ring & exit nozzle during reassembly...I use Threebond 1211.

    The SC removal is pretty simple. Remember the nut holding the SC impeller is left hand threads...ONLY TORQUE TO 70 in/lbs after installing the new impeller. We've seen a few people break the SC shafts by overtorquing. Also, make sure to double check the gasket on the bottom of te housing is properly seated when reinstalling. If you don't have instructions see post #8:
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...t=instructions

  7. #7
    superair's Avatar
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    Yesterday I installed the supcharger wheel. The gasket MJ is speaking of was a problem. I used a few drops of superglue in the areas that were trying to fall out of the groove on the supercharger it rested in. Worked great, old mechanics trick.


    Matt


    Quote Originally Posted by mjh3ides View Post
    diagram & other links:
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...mpeller+remove
    You will need the shaft holding tool & the prop tool that was included with the impeller. The stock prop is 27mm...make sure to use a 6 pt closed end wrench, otherwise it can slip and/or collapse the front of the prop if using an adjustable or open end wrench. They are reverse threads on the impeller, so it will need to be turned clockwise...this is done to make the impeller self tightening. A big ass breaker bar will be your best friend for removal. If you are installing a Skat prop, the included tool is 1"...it's also easily collapsed if not using a closed end wrench. Solas props have a much beefier tool that can be torqued with an adjustable wrench. Make sure to apply some antisieze to the threads before installing the new prop. Also, don't forget to seal the pump to the wear ring & exit nozzle during reassembly...I use Threebond 1211.

    The SC removal is pretty simple. Remember the nut holding the SC impeller is left hand threads...ONLY TORQUE TO 70 in/lbs after installing the new impeller. We've seen a few people break the SC shafts by overtorquing. Also, make sure to double check the gasket on the bottom of te housing is properly seated when reinstalling. If you don't have instructions see post #8:
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...t=instructions

  8. #8
    Taking money away from the Z06 Fund
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5001craig View Post
    Nice post--thanks.

    Is there only one special tool needed to remove the prop (the Shaft Holding Tool)?

    Did you need heat to remove the prop from the drive shaft?

    Thanks.
    The Dynafly prop comes with the removal tool for taking the dynafly prop off later on. The Tool will not work with removing the stock impeller. I still need time to post a whole step by step thread on changing the impeller.

    Basically once you remove the whole pump unit, the shaft will be attached. Take the SHO shaft tool and place it on the end of the shaft over the splines. You have to use a VISE to hold the shaft tool to keep the shaft from rotating. Anything else won't work unless you have Magnus von Magnussen helping you

    I used 2 BIG adjustable pipe wrenches on the stock impeller. One clamped the impeller and the 2nd was used as leverage like a pipe to turn the first wrench. Eventually it broke loose. I did notice that the end of the stock prop is now an "oval" shape as the soft metal bent with the force of clamping down from the wrenches. I don't plan on putting the stock prop back on, so I don't care, but something to be aware of, the metal is soft. I talked to Hitman and he said his did the same thing.

    I also put anti seize on the impeller threads for removal next time. Put some Spline grease on the end of the shaft before re inserting the shaft into the transom/engine. I also cleaned up the wear ring and sealed it when re installing the pump. Make sure you also put the nose cone on the new Dynafly, it slips into the impeller and tightens with 3 small allen screws. I don't remember the size, but metric and small.

    Jeff

  9. #9
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by poof100 View Post
    I used 2 BIG adjustable pipe wrenches on the stock impeller. One clamped the impeller and the 2nd was used as leverage like a pipe to turn the first wrench. Eventually it broke loose. I did notice that the end of the stock prop is now an "oval" shape as the soft metal bent with the force of clamping down from the wrenches. I don't plan on putting the stock prop back on, so I don't care, but something to be aware of, the metal is soft. I talked to Hitman and he said his did the same thing.
    This is exactly why a closed end wrench must be used. There is always a market for stock props, so if you don't destroy it getting it off you can at least sell it for a few bucks.

  10. #10
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjh3ides View Post
    This is exactly why a closed end wrench must be used. There is always a market for stock props, so if you don't destroy it getting it off you can at least sell it for a few bucks.

    I actually went to the trouble of sending my stocker to Dave at Impros to fix it back good as new. Somebody will get a nice stocker one day...

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