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  1. #1
    Jared of Oklahoma
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Oklahoma City
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    my SLT750 will not move

    my son and I were crusing across Draper Lake in OKC Sunday evening at about 46mph according to my display when the ski suddenly slowed to a halt and started making a horendous sound.

    I have not had time to do a compression check yet. I did promptly turn off the motor and have not started it back up.. my guess would be pump bearings. I did notice that something broke free on the shaft behind the motor. according to my Clymers manual this item is a rubber bumper at the end of my drive shaft. Im not sure if this is a seperate problem or part of why my ski will not move.

    also earlier in the day on Sunday this ski was running very sluggish almost like the carbs might be an issue. However last year I changed out all the fuel lines including the ones in the tank, installed a new triple outlet pump, and even had the carbs correctly rebuilt by Craig owner of Performance Watercraft in Norman Oklahoma. (former Polaris racer back in the day) I now wonder if this sluggish performance was a pre warning of what was coming with the non movement issue I now have...

    can someone please direct me to a previous thread where someone else had this same problem. I have tried several ways of searching and still no dice...

    on another note my other ski a 96 SLT780 runs awesome out on the water but even when the motor is warm and I put it in reverse to back off the trailer it keeps dying. any thoughts???? and sometimes after riding and Im trying to go onto the trailer with only a small portion of the bunks out of the water it stalls on me..


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Can you post photos of the damaged item behind the engine?

    Sounds almost like the PTO drive shaft coupler has failed.

    Did you clamp off the cooling water hose before being towed?

    If not, check the engine for water. Take the spark plugs out, and crank it over. If water sprays out, you have water in the engine, and that is not good.

    I suggest you remove the jet pump and drive shaft. Remove the four LONG bolts, disconnect the steering and reverse linkages, and any small hoses. Wiggle and pull until the entire jet pump slides back, straight out. If the drive shaft does not come out with the pump, just pull it straight out.

    CHeck the impeller for smooth rotation, with no grinding or slop in the bearings. If that is OK, then remove the cover over the drive shaft coupler behind the engine, and try turning the engien over by hand (spark plugs out). See if it turns smoothly.

    Let us know what you find, and we can go from there.

  3. #3
    Jared of Oklahoma
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    Aug 2007
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    Oklahoma City
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    no I did not clamp off the cooling hose... crap that cant be good. hopefully I can save it. I will take some pics and post them as soon as I can see outside. it does look like the PTO driveshaft coupler according to the pics in the Clymers I have. and that is one part that was replaced by the shop I use right after I bought this ski.. so I guess the used one I used was not as good as I hoped it was. oh well, probably for sure buy a new one if I can this time.

  4. #4
    Jared of Oklahoma
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    Aug 2007
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    Oklahoma City
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    386

    Question will not move

    OK I finally got my boat into the garage and did a compression check and 3 cylinders had 125+ compression. so next as it was suggested I do I check the PTO coupler and sure enough it was stripped and so were the splines on the drive shaft. I also checked the pump and it spins super smooth.. so yep the drive shaft and the PTO coupler stripped inside seem to be my problem. now I just cant get the PTO coupler thing off. I know it has female threads and which way to loosen but it remains locked in there tight. So yesterday I trailered her over to a buddy of mines shop who is a machinist with a waterjet machine. so Tomorrow he is going to make me a custom socket to go onto the PTO coupler. Im betting my 3/4 impact might just rattle her loose. Thoughts anyone???? otherwise I am going to have to pull the motor so I can get better access.. this all has happened at the worst time because I had this boat sold. Now Im going to have to find a new buyer as soon as I get it fixed and the new Hydro-Turf installed.

  5. #5
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Have you tried the rope trick? With rope in the pto cylinder, and a big pipe wrench, and a cheater bar if needed, the coupler will come off.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by starflight View Post
    Have you tried the rope trick? With rope in the pto cylinder, and a big pipe wrench, and a cheater bar if needed, the coupler will come off.

    I personally prefer the tree method! http://greenhulk.net/forums/showpost...8&postcount=21

  7. #7
    Jared of Oklahoma
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yammerhead View Post
    I personally prefer the tree method! http://greenhulk.net/forums/showpost...8&postcount=21


    WOW that was really smart

  8. #8
    Jared of Oklahoma
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    Aug 2007
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    rope trick

    Quote Originally Posted by starflight View Post
    Have you tried the rope trick? With rope in the pto cylinder, and a big pipe wrench, and a cheater bar if needed, the coupler will come off.
    yep we tried that and it would not budge. never had one this tight...got the custome made socket back from my buddy the machinist today. so here in a bit Im gonna try that with my impact. I bet it will come off now.. if not Im gonna be pulling the motor...

  9. #9

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    I live in moore about 5 miles from draper, i have a shop and such that I do side work out of, if you cant get it, before you pull the engine, give me a shout and maybe we can try something different?
    --Justin

  10. #10
    Jared of Oklahoma
    Join Date
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    Oklahoma City
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    I will take you up on that

    Quote Originally Posted by mechanicalmehem View Post
    I live in moore about 5 miles from draper, i have a shop and such that I do side work out of, if you cant get it, before you pull the engine, give me a shout and maybe we can try something different?
    --Justin
    Justin I tried that custom socket my buddy made and it still will not budge. I also tried a big 1/2" drive breakover bar with a cheater pipe and still no dice. of course I was trying to be carefull cuz I did not want to bust a hole in the bottom the of the hull. can you call me? at 405-412-5198 or email me your contact info at [email protected] and I will call you. I will gladly pay you for your services and lend a hand any way I can. Im sure you may have seen something like this before. I also have another ski that I may need you to finish removing a starter from and then install my new used starter in. So def some oportunities for you to make some money. Do you do fiberglass work at all???? cuz I also have another ski with a hole in the bottom of the hull.

    I look forward to talking to you soon,
    Jared Jones

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