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Thread: 95-96 slx 780

  1. #1

    95-96 slx 780

    Hi, i bought my first ski and loving it, 95 SLX780, but this winter am looking to upgrade and basically rebuild the pump. What I find is a lot of parts that are good for a 96 slx but nothing for a 95. Is there something different here or can i use the 96 parts. Im hoping i didnt buy an odd ball ski thats got zero aftermarket.

    Im looking at getting new bearings/seals and the rubber bumpers at either end of the driveshaft as well as an about 15/20 impeller. I notice now when coming out or a hard corner that it will cavitate a bit but not when im stopped and just go wide open. Will this impeller give me better results or is there something else i should be looking for.

    Also this is not my first time on a ski but 1st time on a polaris. When riding it seems all great but whenever i slow down to an idle basically the nose of the ski goes right under the water but will come back up. This has never happened to me before on a ski, im assuming its okay becasue i havent sunk it yet. I would like to know for sure before i keep doing doughnuts and such with it plunging into the water.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    I am not an expert on the Fuji engined models, but I think the 1995 SLX 780 and 1996 SLX 780 are very similar.

    Does your jet pump have the extended section in front of the stator?

    As long as the hood seals are keeping the water out of the hull, there shouldn't be any problem with water coming over the nose.

    Click below for more useful info

  3. #3
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk 08. Sorry, I missed this.

    The 95 and 96 SLX 780 pumps parts are the same.

    The 15/20 swirl impeller came stock on the 96. So it will be a nice match.

    Not sure why your nose is dipping so bad. It shouldn't. Make sure no water is getting inside the hull.

    Does it still do it with less than 1/2 tank of fuel?

    Is your trim all the way down?

    Was the pump wedge installed the wrong way? (thickest part to bottom)

    If you think you're cavitating, check the impeller to wear ring clearance, as well as the silicone sealing the pump shoe to the hull.

  4. #4
    I'm planning on taking off the pump tonight to change the seal to the hull since its leaking a bit, not a lot but I still would like it changed.

    Ill have to check on the wedge plate. You say the thick portion should be on the buttom? I also notice that if i have the trim on anything higher then maybe 4ish then the ski porposes like crazy especially with 2 ppl on it. Its to the point sometimes that i have to let out of the throttle because i cannot hold on anymore haha, trying to scare the wife on the back.

    I havent tryed the ski out for long enough to know if the nose goes under water with less then 1/2 tank I only have probably 1/2 hour to 45 mins on it total in 2 short trips. I normally leave the trim about 3.5 or 4 due to the porposing issue i talked about above. Actually if i even try to put the trip over 5 the ski is undrivable because it will not plane, just come out of the water and then porpose.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08silverado View Post
    I'm planning on taking off the pump tonight to change the seal to the hull since its leaking a bit, not a lot but I still would like it changed.
    You are talking about the drive shaft through-hull seal, that is inside the hull - correct?

    Ill have to check on the wedge plate. You say the thick portion should be on the bottom?
    Yes, the wedge is designed to angle the jet pump water flow upwards as it leaves the pump nozzle. This forces the rear downwards, which lifts the nose more, and provides more top speed.

    Too much downward pressure at the rear will induce porpoising.


    I also notice that if i have the trim on anything higher then maybe 4ish then the ski porpoises like crazy especially with 2 ppl on it. Its to the point sometimes that i have to let out of the throttle because i cannot hold on anymore haha, trying to scare the wife on the back.

    I haven't tried the ski out for long enough to know if the nose goes under water with less then 1/2 tank I only have probably 1/2 hour to 45 mins on it total in 2 short trips.

    I normally leave the trim about 3.5 or 4 due to the porpoising issue i talked about above. Actually if i even try to put the trip over 5 the ski is undrivable because it will not plane, just come out of the water and then porpose.
    With two people on a 2 seater hull, you will often need to trim the nose down, to avoid porpoising. The heavier the total passenger load, the more nose down trim will be needed.

    Use as much nose down trim as you need to make the hull ride stable. That is what the trim is for

    There will be times when 100% trim down in the nose is the correct trim level.

    As the fuel tank gets lower, you will also need more nose down trim. In rougher water, again you will need more nose down trim at speed.

    When carrying a passenger on a 2 seater, I would set the trim for maximum nose down until it gets on plane (trim nose down lifts the rear under thrust), then back off the trim just a little to raise the nose, but not so much that it porpoises.

  6. #6
    Yes the through hull driveshaft seal. Is there something more i should know about this seal? or changing it?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08silverado View Post
    Yes the through hull driveshaft seal. Is there something more i should know about this seal? or changing it?
    Jet Pump Maintenance and Service

  8. #8
    Well i changed the seal. no issues with that.

    Impeller and wear ring were in suprisingly good shape. I wasnt able to take as good a look at the stator but it wasnt perfect like the impeller.

    The wedge was in the correct orientation with the small side up.

    Would changing from the 4blade progressive impeller to a 15/20 3 blade show much improvement or would this be a waste of money? I mainly ride larger inland lakes which do get choppy and am not that worried about top speed.

  9. #9
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    The best pump upgrade would be to ditch that POS five vane cast aluminum stator junker and replace it with a stainless steel six vane. Pretty much bullet proof compare to the cast which is more like glass as far as durability. The six vane will give you 1 to 1.5 mph up top and better hook up in the chop or any condition for that matter.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Polaris_Nut#1 View Post
    The best pump upgrade would be to ditch that POS five vane cast aluminum stator junker and replace it with a stainless steel six vane. Pretty much bullet proof compare to the cast which is more like glass as far as durability. The six vane will give you 1 to 1.5 mph up top and better hook up in the chop or any condition for that matter.
    Thats the type of answer i was looking for. Thanks

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