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  1. #1

    Pump removal Question

    Apparently, when I had the new metal pump installed for the 03 GTX SC, I forgot to give the tech the bushings for the pump. This is part #4 on the page listed below.

    So, will it be tricky to take out the pump and install them myself? What are the steps? Seadoo book says to clamp this and that off.



  2. #2
    Having Fun jp1300r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Its not hard to pull the pump. Unhook the steering cable at the nozzle and unhook the reverse cable on the other side, then remove the four nuts or bolts holding the pump to the pumpshoe/hull. Are you sure the tech just bolted up the pump without the bushing. Maybe the metal pump came with them.

    If you still have OPAS, you will have to unhook the hose at the top of the exit nozzle, too.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by jp1300r View Post
    Its not hard to pull the pump. Unhook the steering cable at the nozzle and unhook the reverse cable on the other side, then remove the four nuts or bolts holding the pump to the pumpshoe/hull. Are you sure the tech just bolted up the pump without the bushing. Maybe the metal pump came with them.

    If you still have OPAS, you will have to unhook the hose at the top of the exit nozzle, too.
    The pump was a bare unit and came with nothing else and they are sitting on my bench so that kinda narrows down my options.

    OK. I just didn't want to have to pinch off this boot or take that clamp off or have the driveshaft come out with it.

  4. #4
    xBigDaddyx117's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    If the houseing it all metal, then I dont think you need them, that is a metal spacer for a plastic pump, its so you dont kill the houseing tightening the pump.
    If he installed part 3 you should be good to go.

  5. #5
    Gotta love this sport! 05Limited's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Stockton, CA
    Quote Originally Posted by xBigDaddyx117 View Post
    If the houseing it all metal, then I dont think you need them, that is a metal spacer for a plastic pump...If he installed part 3 you should be good to go...
    ???... bigdaddy, where do you come up with this stuff?

    aklim... those are plastic bushings for a metal pump.

    I'm not going to claim that without them your ski will disintegrate... but I would pull the pump and insert them.

  6. #6
    don't know if this helps i did this write up for a different site....its for the t-x but there all pretty much the same...

    I changed my busted Solas 15/22r for a new one so I thought I'd post a how to with Pictures...It took me 1hr but this is the Third time I've done it...This is something anyone with a pwc should and can do themselfs and it'll save you a bucket of cash and is usually the cause of alot of problems.. weed caught around your shaft and prop, worn wear ring, dented or worn prop...I've heard stories of people taking there skis to a dealer with cavatation issues or ski dosn't run with the result being a rock stuck in the pump/prop or simply a worn most dealers will charge you $85 to $100 (in australia anyway) an hour and as most of them are about as competent as you and me this will cost you for something you can do yourself....Note there are lots of different props available the 15/22r is the best all round prop for the T-X and P-X seadoo skis....

    this is a online shop in the US for your prop.. ... x&cPath=43 ...with the aussie dollar at 84 cents this is a cheap way to get hold of a new prop..allow about $AU80 for delivery...I was quoted from a seadoo shop in perth $700 for the prop I was chasing..I just ordered a new prop, R&D 4" S/C adaptor, Prop tool and torx head sockets all delivered to my door for $ it goes without saying...

    the Tools you will require..
    from left to right
    5mm allen key
    3mm allen key
    4" cresent(sustitute with another 10mm spanner)
    12" cresent (for holding Prop tool if you don't have a vice)
    Prop removal tool ....purchase from here...( ... cts_id=391 )
    2 x 10mm spanners ( Or 1 and a small cresent)
    250mm extension bar
    Breaker bar
    12mm inhex socket
    13mm socket
    17mm socket
    also not pictured is a large flat head screw driver

    you could buy these tools with the money saved in DIY....

    Step 1. Remove VTS, OPAS & hose, Steering cable, Reverse bucket Spring from Venturi...
    I'm not running opas but it is only one nut..use the 13mm socket to undo the opas steering were it connects to the Nozzle...See diagram

    Also IMO the easiest way to remove and put back the reverse bucket spring is to put a large flat head srew driver down the middle of the spring and push on the hook to get it to strech past the mount (just make sure your head is not behind the spring incase the screw driver slips shown below

    opas hose removed

    Thats the hard bit done

    Step.2 Remove Venturi nozzle

    Using the extension bar, ratchet and 13mm Socket undo the 4 bolts as in the pic..this is just one of the bolts the others are there and easy to spot..

    Step 3 Take off the pump..

    again using the ratchet and extension bar but this time with the 17mm socket Undo the 4 bolts that connect the pump to the ski/drive shaft the pull the pump off the drive shaft and out of the tunnel

    Step 4. Take the Prop out of the Pump

    using the 5mm allen key undo the three bolts on the nose cone and pry off the nose cone with a screw driver to reveal the inhex bolt that holds the prop in place....TA DAAAAA...

    If you have a vice( lucky you) then put the removal tool into the vice the place the pump/prop onto the tool so the removal tool spline goes into the prop were the drive shaft came out....

    but if your like me and use what you have then just put the removal tool into the spline of the prop and place the 12'' cresent onto the tool and lay the whole lot onto the ground( on a towel to protect the pump)...It helps if you have someone to hold the pump down whilst breaking the inhex bolt...use the 12mm inhex socket and the breaker bar and turn the bolt in a counter clockwise direction...It may take some force.or if like me use your 120kgs of body muscle.....See diagrams below

    once you undo the bolt the prop will just pull out..the inhex nut will stay there

    I didn't have to change my wear ring at this point so i have no pics...BUT with the Prop out remove the black seal the goes around the pump, get a drill and a bit that is smaller then the thickness off the liner wall and drill down the liner wall be very careful you dont drill into the side of the pump you are trying to drill a hole into and down the width of the liner..then using a large flat head screw driver push it into were you drilled down the liner in between the pump wall and liner and you should be able to fold this section of the liner inwards which will allow you to then just pull the old liner out...Being that the wear ring/ liner is a pressed fit its hard to get the new liner in so be patient use a block of wood across the liner and gently tap down on the wood to get it started then drive it home....another way is to get a car jack and two bits of wood one piece of wood betwwen the jack and the pump and one piece between the liner and you ski trailer and start jacking....but again be carful cause a liner will set you back upward of $AU90

    at this point the camera ran out of ill try and explain some other stuff with out pics

    when putting the pump cone onto the prop...all i can say is use locktight and make sure its done up super tight..if this comes off it can walk up you drive shaft and wreck your carbon seal sinking your ski....there has been reported cases of this with the solas impellers but touch wood I've yet to see it....

    not Ideal, but i put vice grips onto the flat sections of the nose cone and tightened it using the prop tool and shifter to hold the prop...

    reverse the steps to put your ski back together...make sure the inhex nut is Fuggin tight but don't use lock tight on this or you'll never get it off again..don't be scared to lean into it to get it super tight.....also when putting you pump back in you have to line the splines of the drive shaft and Prop up ..its pretty easy but if by wiggling it a bit it dosn't go on the stick a screw driver through the pump a whilst your pushing the pump onto the drive shaft use the srew driver to turn the prop blades and it'll push into should not have a gap were the pump meets the hull the pump should push into place as though the bolts were done up...don't think by doing up the bolts that it'll pull the pump into place the bolts are there to hold the pump in place...

    also, I don't.... but if you want put a little and I mean a little lock tight on the bolts for the pump and the nozzle when putting them back on be my guest.... this helps i think.....

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Cairns Australia
    Excellent writeup Pooche!!I will definitely be refering back to this at some stage.


  8. #8
    Perfect. I don't need to take all the stuff out just the pump and this will HELP IMMENSELY.

  9. #9

    Dang son?!

    You been here since mar '08 an you're just posting that write up now?

    You gotta do better than that.

    Excelent write up.....I wish I'da seen it a coupla years ago.

  10. #10
    I'm stoked.

    Thanx Poochie

    It is all done and I can't even think of any way it could be better other than Poochie coming over here and doing it for me.

    Once again Thanx Poochie

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