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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tuckerton, NJ
    Posts
    53

    Here we go again....

    hi everyone, xl 1200 xlt just had carbs rebuilt as well as front piston and rings. Ran great the last 2 times out.....then tonight we were coastin along and it just shut down....are you kidding me......press the start button and nothing much...then finally after a few tries i got power back and it started. I don't get it. I replicated the issue 3 times. The last I wasn't so sure it was going to start. It's a new battery. I clicked the button and it said start.....after a couple of tries it got better it seemed and starts. Wasn't so sure it would work the last time but seems electical. Any thoughts?? I'm so sick of this thing. Thanks!!


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Hillsborough, North Carolina
    Posts
    141
    Did the ski's starter energize and turn the engine over when you pressed the start button? Did it start-up or just turn over and not want to start? Did you have any beeps or displays when it shut down or did all the displays just go blank?

    I'm just guessing here according to the input you've given, but could there be an issue with the "lanyard" switch? If you couldn't get a display or the starter to energize then that may be the place to start looking. Corroded or loose wires could also be an issue, I'd check all the wires and connectors, it may be as simple as that.

    Let us know more and I'm sure someone on here will chime in more knowledgable than me... Good Luck!

  3. #3
    Mpeavler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Anderson, Indiana
    Posts
    5,155
    +1
    170
    Sounds like a seizure to me....better investigate my friend. What did you replace pistons before? If you didn't find and fix the problem, it could be costing you another top end soon.

    Did you go through the carbs completely?....and then pressure test upon rebuild?

    M

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tuckerton, NJ
    Posts
    53
    Well the display simply said start and I'd press the button and nothing. After pressing a few times it starts to click and "get stronger" i guess is the right way to put it. Then after running you can shut it off and start it up. No issues. It doesn't do this right away. I had to run her for 10-15 minutes before I could replicate the issue. Cruising along and just shuts down. No warnings or nothing. I thought wires to. I took a quick look yesterday and they seem all secure but I'll have to follow the lanyard switch to get a better look. It always gets wd 40 all over after every ride. I try to do what I can but I had the piston, rings and carbs done by a shop as I am no mechanic. As for the cylinder they stated it was at 105 while the others were at 115 and was riding on the edge so I said just do it. This thing is such a bear to work on as the exhaust sites on top.

  5. #5
    Prism's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    "New" Jersey
    Posts
    826
    +1
    99
    Do you mean the carbs were a 105 and others were 115? Maybe you were confused by what your carb rebuilder said? You said compression is 115 which isn't a problem. Are you sure he was not talking about jets?

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tuckerton, NJ
    Posts
    53
    top end cylinder was at 105 while the rest at 115. Took her out today after putting dielectric grease on all connectors and reset the code on the module. ran great for a while. then cruising along again at about 45 she just stopped. didn't do anything and then finally clicked and started but sounded very deep. I put her in reverse and she was a bit boggy but then seemed to clean out?? went forward and i was able to get up but something is just not right. Tried doing a compression test but i think something is wrong with my tester. 1st cylinder getting no reading when cranking and WOT. Other cylinders say 30. I think the gauge has some issues. Is this how to do a compression test? I just want that to be ok and then go from there. Plugs are pretty dark and I don't smell any thing burnt but they look a bit dry to me. I feel air coming out of the top end cylinder....didn't compare with my hand on the rest. I'm to the point where I think I want to sell this thing as is and cut my losses. I'm still up in the air but "craigslist" may be on the horizon. Nothing but problems since the day i got the thing.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Hillsborough, North Carolina
    Posts
    141

    Don't give er up yet!

    Anybody close to you in NJ? I'm sure someone will chime in thats relatively close to you.

    But then, they may all be on vacation now too....

  8. #8
    pokechop2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    summerville sc
    Posts
    223
    try another compression tester there pretty cheap,advance auto or autozone has free rentals too.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tuckerton, NJ
    Posts
    53
    that is the plan to get another gauge. However proper procedure seems to indicate the power valves need to be closed. I'm trying to get some verification on the exact steps to perform the test.

    take wires off
    insert in 1st cylinder
    crank for 5 to 10 seconds wot
    power valves need to be closed??? Is this true and how do i do it??
    i've seen testers for pwc (flexdrive compression tester) Is this different then what is in the auto stores?

    thanks guys

  10. #10
    Nothin' runs like a Deere IowanGPR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Waterloo, IA
    Posts
    1,608
    take out all your plugs, pull the throttle all the way open and crank it.

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