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  1. #1
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    1993 SL650 Engine Rebuild - Could use help in here

    finding out I have a crankcase seal starting to come out over the Utica weekend was a bit of a bummer, especially since I just got it all dialed in.

    I am going to give the rebuild a shot myself, but since I have never attempted anything remotely like this, I could use some help and advice.

    I will update this checklist as we go here, and will eventually put links direrctly to important parts of the thread along with pix and good advice.

    =====
    doing currently:
    =====

    re-tune carbs (ugh, not again)

    =====
    stuff to come back to:
    =====

    install remaining cooling, fuel, and oil lines (22.36 fuel-line.net)
    upload more pix
    upload first start video
    write up variable oil pump install article and thread summary

    =====
    work completed:
    =====

    remove and disassemble engine
    clean out clogged crankcase & exhaust cooling systems
    test pop-off in carbs - (popoff was 38 psi, replaced springs and popoff is now ~18 psi, thanks johnsonmtz!)
    replace incorrect carb popoff springs with 65 gram/Shiny Silver springs - (8.85 jetskimechanic.com)
    install throttle lever on carbs for variable oil pump - (11.46 bikebandit.com)
    have cylinders honed - (28.00 Auto-Ron's)
    replace crank o-ring and reverse wear ring - (3.58 bikebandit.com)
    replace oil seals & engine gaskets - (84.99 ebay)
    replace 6x piston rings -(66.00 jetskihaven.com)
    replace wrist pins & bearings - (48.00 ebay)
    replace 6x c-clips - (6.96 bikebandit.com)
    replace 2 reeds - (22.99 ebay)
    upgrade 12x reed spacer bolts - (44.76 bikebandit.com)
    upgrade 6x reed spacer studs - (17.22 bikebandit.com)
    upgrade 3x reed spacers - (20.00 greenhulk)
    install 3x reed spacer gaskets - (9.00 ebay)
    test leak-down
    upgrade to variable oil pump - (20.00 greenhulk)
    put in stator, flywheel, bendix, starter
    test crank index again - looked good
    fix stator wiring
    install coupler
    install bottom end cooling system
    replace oil filter - (2.20 bikebandit.com)
    replace oil level sensor - (0.95 ebay)
    replace through-hull bearings/seals - (5.00 greenhulk)
    replace water temperature sensor - (41.99 ebay)
    replace thermostat, check valve, spring, & seals - (38.13 bikebandit.com)
    remove and clean gas tank
    replace fuel selector valve - (23.33 ebay)
    replace & re-route fuel lines - (4.99 fuellines.biz)
    replace & re-route oil lines - (4.99 fuellines.biz)
    install base plate
    install motor (OMGBBQ!)
    install exhaust system
    replace driveshaft bumpers and o-ring - (2.05 bikebandit.com)
    replace storage bin seal - (14.90 bikebandit.com)
    install new cover - (150.00 ebay)
    install oil & gas tanks
    install oil and fuel systems
    add oil and fuel (pre-mix fuel with oil @ 32:1)
    prime and double-check oil and fuel systems
    replace battery & cover - (106.67 PC625 ODYSSEY - 15.50 bikebandit.com)
    re-route and install electrical system
    replace stock air intake with ocean pro f/a - (19.61 ebay)
    install old spark plugs
    clip spark plug lines and test spark
    IT IS ALIVE!!!!
    install tachometer
    install boarding step - (75.00 ebay)
    install jet pump
    re-route and install top end cooling system
    install new thermostat gasket (7.60 ebay)
    install remaining zip ties or clamps
    install flush kit (8.79 ebay)
    replace fuel and oil line air inlet/outlet valves (13.95 ebay)
    set carbs to factory defaults + 3/8
    install battery straps (13.76 ebay)
    replace electrical box gasket (4.94 bikebandit.com)
    break-in engine (hooray!)
    replace seat seal (49.95 ebay)

    =====
    things I should have done but forgot:
    =====

    grease void between front end oil seals
    use loctite
    use copper gasket sealant
    paint engine parts as they went on

    =====
    tools & supplies used:
    =====

    workbench - (free from friend)
    butcher paper - (8.80 u-haul)
    shop rags - (3.99 harbor freight)
    latex gloves - (7.99 harbor freight)
    stub wrenches standard and metric - (14.99 harbor freight)
    stud extractor - (4.99 harbor freight)
    vise - (19.99 harbor freight)
    flywheel removal tool - (21.99 NAPA)
    penetrating oil - (2.95 Menards)
    2x gasket remover - (6.99 NAPA)
    plastic razor blades - (5.99 westmarine.com)
    Simple Green HD (gallon) - (14.99 home depot)
    copper gasket treatment - (13.99 NAPA)
    thread lock blue - (6.99 NAPA)
    di-electric grease - (6.99 NAPA)
    three bond 1211 - (22.95 jetskimechanic.com)
    leak down test kit - (vacumn kit 19.99 harbor freight - racquet balls 4.39 k-mart)
    tdc indicator - (39.95 ebay)
    pop-off tester - (thanks johnsonmtz!)
    Duplicolor Old Ford Blue paint - (6.99 jegs.com)
    compression tester - (9.99 harbor freight)
    spark tester - (1.99 harbor freight)
    degree wheel - click here
    waterproof grease kit with new zerks - (12.95 greengrease.net)
    tachometer - (21.99 ebay)
    break-in oil - (12.95 sbt)
    Last edited by tenjuna; 05-21-2012 at 02:54 PM.


  2. #2
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Go one of 2 ways,split the case,replace all gaskets and seals and run it.

    Or find Jugs and heads from a 750,780 and go bigger.

    But then you have to retune again.

    I would say contact Our Buddy John Zigler for parts.

  3. #3
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    while going bigger sounds tempting, this is going to be the wife's ski, and I think she is perfectly happy with it as-is.

    not to mention any time you try to go bigger, the problems get bigger too.

    so it sounds like I just need seals and gaskets...will do.

    since it will be a while before I start this it doesnt make sense to get heavy into discussion, but the first thing I need to know is: where do I start?

    do I pull the exhaust and work my way down from there, or do I leave the exhaust alone and just pull the heads and go down that way?

  4. #4
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Easiest is to pull the exhaust pipe,disconnect wiring,etc,nuts from motor mounts and lift complete engine out. Do it on a bench.Save your back.If you get the motor out,we could do it here this fall,winter. I would spray area good around the seal for now with brake cleaner,and add some silicone around the seal edge,for a bandaid.

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    If you're going through that trouble, get the cyls re-honed (around $10 ea) and re-ring it (around $20 ea) if the cyls are still good.

    That will raise compression and bring your tired 650 back up to snuff.

  6. #6
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    thanks for the advice guys...I was going to ask about the cylinders and rings since my compression is likely low anyway.

    where would I have that done at?

    better yet, I will see if I can find this info in the tech section.


  7. #7
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Wasn't you compression about 105 on each cyls?

  8. #8
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    yeah 105, but the manual calls for 120-150 so I assume that's low.

    since I am going to have the engine apart anyway seems like a good time to fix stuff like this, don't you agree?

  9. #9
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    105 isn't too bad, but 120 would definately give a better punch.

    Local machine shop should be able to hone cyls for you, or send them out to be done.

    Won't cost much for a hone.

  10. #10
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    While it's apart, a quick hone and new rings would be worth it.

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