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  1. #1
    2000 GPRXP 4tec shooter98xpl's Avatar
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    Lapping the flywheel/crank

    What do you use to lapp the flywheel and how do you go about doing this? I saw teh pictures and directions on how to, but what kind of shiznet do you use to lap with?
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  2. #2
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
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    course, then fine valve laping compound..(auto parts store) mill work is usually shiney, apply paste to the surface then set the wheel onto the shaft,moving it in a circular motion, approx. thru a 120 degree rotation with out rocking it up and down... dont be sloppy with the compound as a little goes a long way... clean re-do above, move the areas of contact around, to make sure you get the whole surface the same.... look for the surface to 'frost' as it laps in (it won't be shiney anymore) when it is all frosted you are done.. both surfaces will have this 'frost' on it. clean it spotless with thinner on a rag... i have seen the forum members say to tourque to appox 75 foot lbs. which is about 25lbs. over stock.run a search to find good pics...
    Last edited by w/rpm500; 08-10-2006 at 08:51 AM.

  3. #3
    2000 GPRXP 4tec shooter98xpl's Avatar
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    so I go pick up course lapping compound and then fine lapping compound. I only apply it to where the flywheel is going to sit on correct? Then apply the "paste" (course first?) and rotate the flywheel around the shaft until its all even throughout? Take off and then let it frost up (I am assuming frost up means it will change to a frosty looking color)? Do i have to sand down the course or do I think just apply the fine on top of the course once the course has frosted up and do the rotation again, then let it frost up a 2nd time and I am done? Sorry for the questions, but I would hate to fuck this up, hahaha.
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  4. #4
    2000 GPRXP 4tec shooter98xpl's Avatar
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    also, this is going to be performed on a brand new 0 hours gpr efi motor, 06.
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  5. #5
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    Whe you lap you hit all the high spots and change the surface finish

    Many benefits most importantly its now stronger at the crank.

    You may have to lap a whille possibly 30 min.

    Even pressure not to heavy let the laping compound do the work.

    SCOTT...............

  6. #6
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shooter98xpl
    also, this is going to be performed on a brand new 0 hours gpr efi motor, 06.
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    I dont think you will need to lap that one Bubba.

  7. #7
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
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    you can buy both,in tubes... course is used first,till frosted color... cleaned, then fine is used in final lap ... the same process..cleaned again...work the cource till its all mating surface is fosted, then the fine to finish it up... once with fine, should be enough... the frost color, evenly thru out is what you want at the mate surfaces....wipe well between and after.. no sanding .. the compound does the cutting.... just make sure you clean well between applications of the different grades of compound's....
    Last edited by w/rpm500; 08-10-2006 at 12:09 PM.

  8. #8
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
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    dumb question.... has any one used bearing and key set(locktite yellow) on one of these with any success?

  9. #9
    2000 GPRXP 4tec shooter98xpl's Avatar
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    question is, how necessary is this procedure?
    SHOOTER

  10. #10
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    Cant tell without being there to feel the fit and look at surface finishes.
    May not need it you decide.

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