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  1. #1

    I just picked up a 96 Hurricane. Newb advice needed...

    I just picked up a clean but non-running 96 Hurricane over the weekend. It hasn't run since 05 and the previous owner tells me that it was working fine, then one day he went to start it and it was totally dead. He said he tried the reset button, when that didn't work basically gave up on it and its been sitting until now. The battery appears totally shot. Hooked it to my charger and it won't charge at all. So I hooked up my jumper pack to the battery leads, and sure enough its dead. No MFD, no starter, nothing. I opened the electrical box and found there was about 1/2" of water in the bottom. Looks like the rubber seal got pinched at the top of the box and it allowed water in. There is a good amount of corrosion in there. I'm hoping it can be cleaned up. I've been reading a bunch of posts in the last day and it looks like i'll need to get the upgraded stator and CDI module as well, but i don't think those things would prevent power from getting to the MFD and stater. I'd like to be able to at least turn the crank so i can test compression. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    I forgot to ask, if anyone had any leads on a service manual for this boat, that would be greatly appreciated. None of the links I found in the forum seem to work.

    Last edited by rnewman36; 08-18-2009 at 03:37 PM. Reason: mistake

  3. #3
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Pittsfield, MA
    I'd start with getting a new circuit board. The terminals will probably fall off. Mine did. Did you check the fuses? You might need the battery to complete the circuit. I know on some stuff a jump box alone won't do it.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    All you need to crank the engine is to hook up the three heavy battery cables, then use a screwdriver or pliers to jumper the two heavy terminals on the start solenoid, which is inside the electrical box.

    You will get some sparking, but the motor should crank over, as long as the starter itself is working.

    Edit: Make sure you connect the negative battery post to the engine ground, NOT the start solenoid.

  5. #5
    Are the circuit boards available new or would I have to search for a good used one? Any way I can get the starter to run manually so i can check compression. I want to make sure there is hope for this machine before i sink $$ into it for electrical parts.

  6. #6
    Ok, thanks for the tip. This is what I was thinking of doing, but wanted to make sure it wasn't going to damage anything first. I'll give it a try tonight.

  7. #7
    Thanks for the advice K447. Tried what you said with the screwdriver using my jumper pack. I could hear the starter engage but it wouldn't turn the crank. Doesn't sound good. I'm hoping its just the jumper pack and not a seized motor. Anything else I should look for or try? Later today i'll give it another try with the battery out of my lawn tractor.

  8. #8
    Just tried again with a known good battery from my tractor... Still doesn't crank. What would most likely cause this? Rusted rings? Would WD-40 in the cyls possibly free things up?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    Arrow Recovery techniques for a poorly stored PWC engine

    If the engine is rusted internally, then you are probably not going to be able to avoid rebuilding it.

    The best course of action is to pull the cylinders off, so you can evaluate the condition of the pistons, and more importantly, the crank shaft.

    Rust on the crank shaft bearings demands a crank rebuild, otherwise it is likely the crank will fail catastrophically in the near future.

    However, if you want to try loosening up the pistons (knowing that the odds are against you), have a look at this. It was originally written for a Sea-Doo 2-stroke, but you can adapt it for your Polaris.

    Open up all spark plug holes.
    Ground spark plug wires

    Uncover the drive shaft, so you can turn it by hand, later on.

    Get a can or two of aero Kroil, or PB Blaster.
    Other products; PEN Fluid 2000, Konck Er Loose, Break-Free??,
    Spray 20sec. into each plug hole.

    Now try to turn the shaft by hand, you can use a vice grip and a rag to protect the shaft, try to turn the shaft 2 or 3 revolutions. does it turn hard or easy??

    If it doesn’t turn. Put the spark plugs in finger tight and let sit overnight and try again the next day. NEVER TRY TO START THE SKI!!!

    Assuming it turns, hand crank it a few revolutions every day, and add new Kroil or PB every day, maybe 5 sec per plug hole. Always put plugs in when its sitting to seal out air and moisture but do not start!!

    If it spins real easy by hand, after 5 days of this procedure, hook up a battery and with the plugs OUT, and plug wires GROUNDED, put the lanyard on and spin over the engine for 3-5 seconds, put a rag over the plug holes as all the cruddy oil will be shooting out!!
    Repeat 3 times. Give the starter a minute or two to cool down.

    Add fresh Kroil or PB, spin again 2-3 times.
    After nothing is coming out of plug holes, and it is spinning easy and free, put a set of new spark plugs in tight and crank with plug boots still grounded.

    If compression strokes sound ok then add 5 gallons of new gas with 13oz of oil mixed in it, to the fuel tank. Remove the spark plugs and add a shot glass (maybe not that much!) of premix fuel to each plug hole. Put the spark plugs back in.
    Put plug boots on plugs

    Open fuel shut off switch and crank for 5 second bursts, after every few cranks let starter rest a few minutes.
    It might fire up immediately it might take a few tries. If it doesn’t make any attempt to start then check spark. Then add some more new fuel to plug holes.

    If it starts, as gently as possible use the throttle to keep it running, let it idle 1 minute, then shut it off.
    You cannot run longer than 1 minute without attaching a water hose to flush fitting and cooling engine while running.

    Then there’s a lot more to do if it actually will run.
    Take it out side, attach a hose to the flush fitting, start the ski again.

    Then turn on the water, you have to start the ski BEFORE you turn on the water, you also have to turn off the water BEFORE you stop the ski.
    Do not let ski run for more than 1-2 minutes on the hose.

    That is enough time to check if there’s any water shooting out anywhere its not supposed to be inside the engine compartment.
    If there’s no leaks, that is good.

    I would drain all the old 2-stroke oil from the oil tank and add fresh oil. Suction it out the fill tube or pull the hose off the bottom of the oil tank and drain it that way. Change the oil filter while you are at it and make sure there’s no air bubbles in the oil lines or new filter when you refill. Usually its possible to fill the line below the filter by hand then fill the filter by hand then fill the line above the filter by hand before attaching it to the bottom of the tank again.

    Check and clean the fuel filter now while we are in there.
    Recharge or replace the ski battery.

    Run ski every day for 3-4 minutes on the hose (but only for a minute or so at a time).
    Slight throttle blips to help loosen the rings.

    If you can get on it and ride it take it out for a test ride, even 15 minutes of easy cruising would be good.

    Take it nice and easy, you just want to warm it up and test if the carbs are still good, does it rev up normally, is the throttle response clean, no hesitations, stalling etc.

    If it runs good ok, if not it might need a carb rebuild. (Possible WOT lean burn says rebuild them anyway).

    After first ride, check the compression in both cylinders.
    As you break it in again, the compression #'s should improve or hold steady after every tank of gas.

    You will probably need to properly winterize until spring. Add Sta-bil to the fuel tank, run ski for a few minutes on the hose to get the Sta-bil thru the carbs.

    Fog the engine via airbox.

    Then pop the plugs and add a 3 sec of fogging oil to each cylinder, crank one more time with plugs out, but boots grounded, then put plugs in tight and put away till spring.
    Store battery out of ski and use a battery tender.

  10. #10
    Wow, thanks for all the great info. I guess it looks like i'll need to pull the cyls off like you suggest. So, now this leads me to my next question... Where can I find a service manual for this ski? Its probably not a good idea to just tear into it without one. I found some links to manuals on this site, but they are all dead...

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