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  1. #1

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    New to jet skis & forum 07 GP1300R

    Hello......just wanted to make a quick intro. Been lurking on the forum for a month or so now. Finally took the plunge a few weeks ago and picked up an 07 GP1300 R with 42 hours on it & trailer for 5400$.

    It's in great condition and only been ran in fresh water (picked it up from a guy in Alabama).

    I'm looking to set it up for riding in the Gulf/surf. I bought it bone stock and have been reading up on rough water mods. I'm not concerned with top speed or racing. It will be used almost exclusively to play in the surf/rough water. So I guess I'd like to see better handling and accelration rather then top speed.

    I have ordered a Worx intake grate and stepped the sponsons so far. Also did the seat latch mod to make sure the seat stays on while jumping waves. Will be ordering a d-plate and tunnel reinforcement kit (actually looking for them now in the classifieds) as well as sealing the pump etc. Not too sure what else to do or in what order.

    Was thinking about a shred master plate, extended tabs, 3 deg nozzle, solas prop, leo's hole shot..............which one should I do first or in what order? better alternatives?? best bang for the buck??


    Thanks for any help/advise. Looking forward to learning more from you guys.

    Thanks
    Chris



  2. #2
    espritonsevas's Avatar
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    like the hauler/trailor setup, all black love it.

  3. #3
    African-American
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    Good buy on the worx grate, and doing the seat mod and stepped sponsons.

    Do the pump tunnel reinforcement

    I upgraded the bildge pump to a rule 27s (1100gph fully automatic)

    Remove the catalytic convertor (d-plate mod)
    Add a Freeflow tube (or make your own), gives better acceleration
    Add jetworks (gives amazing holeshot, i got mine on for jumping wake).

    Since you already have a HO pump, consider getting a different impellor, skat-trak swirl type-r 13/19 or repitched dynafly 13/19

    Add some washers under the front of your stock ride plate to increase the angle.

    Get a metal steering nozzle (they usually die after a few hard landings), SHO nozzle or an aftermarket R&D/Riva

    You might want to consider the XLT 3degree 87mm pump nozzle as it gives better rough water hookup, or bore your 85mm to 86.8mm.

    then the rest are more serious: raise compression (requires the efi controller), vf3 reeds, increase the timing

  4. #4
    32 Valves To Love! Racecar_Dave's Avatar
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    Get some extended trim tabs, Ive heard they are only good for rough water.

    Dont you want to skip shimming the plate up because you want the hull to push through the surf instead of ramping off of it?

  5. #5

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    Aug 2009
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    espritonsevas: thanks. they do match up well. the ski will receive some minimal graphics as I think it's a little to plain now.

    spaceman: thanks for the advise. I'm looking for the cheapest place to buy the tunnel reinforcement from. I've messed with fiberglass before and I'm not confident that I could do a 'clean' job myself so I need to find the pre-formed piece.

    d-plate- looking for a decent price one now. I'll look into a free flow tube...intake??
    jetworks- will this still work for me? I'm hardly ever at a dead stop.......I read a couple of posts that said that mod was only good if you're at a dead stop and the water box isn't loaded.
    impellor- definitely looking for one. does it matter that I haven't done anything to increase engine power? I'd rather not crack into the engine yet.
    ride plate- I'm a little bit confused when it comes to the ride plate and trim tabs. I still want a fun ride and be able to jump waves. Not sure how much these mods keep you stuck to the water and take away from the experience......... read on a thread here how someone didn't like the feel of being 'planted' to the water. I probably need more time on the water to know what I want here. I can see where you'd want to punch through a lot of the chop etc....but still want to be able launch it and have fun. confused here. I was looking at the shred master plate, but if the stock plate + shimming will work I could use that money on another mod.

    nozzle: confused here too. definitely going to go with a metal unit. I have an 85mm 5 degree platic unit correct? 87mm should be better for the bottom end/hole shot? difference between the 3 degree and 5 degree? (could of sworn I read that the 3 degree works better in the rough)

    sorry for all the questions. trying to take it all in and learn. been getting confused with some of the posts I have read as some of them seem to contradict each other.

    racecar dave: looking into that......just a bit confused as to what they actually do for the ride.


    Thanks for the insight guys. I'm learning a lot here. hopefully I can make the right decisions the first time.

  6. #6
    Dr Len's Avatar
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    Reinforce the pump tunnel

  7. #7
    zx11rider's Avatar
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    the xlt is a 3 degree 87 you have a 5 degree 85 I have a good xlt nozzle off my 2004 xlt if you want to trade ill swap you my xlt nozzle for your gpr nozzle they both fit the same( Your nozzle is not plastic that is your steering nozzle that is plastic at the end of your pump). Ron

  8. #8
    African-American
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    thanks zx11rider for the CORRECTION:
    gpr has a 5 degree 85mm exit nozzle, for rough water u want the XLT 3 degree 87mm

    The steering nozzle is made out of glass reinforced nylon/plastic, (black part right at the end of the jetunit) if you are going to jump waves replace this with any metal one. basically the cheapest part to buy and it works very well its the SHO nozzle from yamaha us$30 part number is 6S5-R1313-00-00.
    (will also make your steering more responsive) http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58713

    If you have freeflow and jetworks its pretty easy to dry the box out (you can actually hear a different exhaust note).. its more for riding below 3000rpm, and when u pin the throttle gives a nice kick. I use it for oncomming wake, cruise slow 2500rpm and when im a few feet i pin the throttle and off i pop..

    Re: extended tabs, they can "hook" on the crest of the swell and flip your nose down (personal preference, some cut them back down to stock length), i use extended tabs and found it gave better holeshot

    Tunnel reinforcement: http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=728

    rideplate, shim the front to increase the angle (you want the plate to be at around 3degrees) youll get very close results to the shredmaster, the shredmaster is excellent if u are going to be riding in the surf.

    Re: impeller, basically you need to get an impeller that gives more low end power. (talk to wfo, island racing, impros, skat-trak and theyll suggest something as im 100% bias to skat-trak type-R)

  9. #9
    I am curious on how does a “3-degrees” shimming of a stock plate makes it the same as the V of a Shredmaster? The angle on how the nose rides on a stock ride plate is one thing but how a Shredmaster ride plate’s V cuts through rough water, tracks straight, and turns on a dime is something else and not the same as what a flat stock ride plate offers? My brother had a Shredmaster on his 1300R we rode for years until he bought a 15F. The way that ski rode with a Shredmaster ride plate was like day and night from a stock ride plate especially how it split the water landing from high jumps in surf when we went to the ocean.
    Have you ever ridden a Shredmaster GPR ride plate?

  10. #10
    African-American
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    yes in the surf. the shredmaster is excellent in the surf.

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