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  1. #1
    More speed, more vert scorp jr's Avatar
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    Another SL 900 Problemo

    Hi guys,

    Per the advice of everyone on here - we updated the stator for the SL 900 that was not running properly. After we got everything together and waited the 24 hrs for the loc-tite to cure the flywheel bolt, we took it to the river for a test.

    It started right up, seemingly fine, and ran very well for the first run. We went probably about a mile up-river, a few spurts of WOT etc etc, seemed to run OK. so we get to a stopping point and decide to turn around, and my old man shut off the 900 because we were talking for a minute (i was on the 1050) So we decide to head back, and awesome NO START for the 900. Not for the life of it, just wouldn't kick over. So I had to tow him in.

    Once we got the thing up on the trailer, we started looking around for what the problem could be - thought it was not getting fuel but it is, carbs were just cleaned professionally, etc etc. Originally it would not even start on the trailer, but eventually we got it to start on the hose under no load, and it was running like a champ again. So alright we figured maybe a slight blockage in a fuel line thats now been burnt up or something? Nope, because we took it back to the river, and under load, it will not start. Really getting tired of this thing, i think it might be cursed. My old man says maybe the timing is off, since the flywheel had to be removed for stator update? Maybe just slightly so that under no load it still runs seemingly OK? is there any way to check that? Does anyone have any experience with this? We followed the instructions for the stator/CDI replacement to the letter - and again for the first 10 minutes the thing ran great - revved all the way up and smoother as can be.

    TIA,

    Stevo


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Battery condition?

    What is the battery voltage while cranking?

    When it starts, does the battery voltage jump to 13-5-14.5 volts?

    Have you checked inside the electrical box for pinched wires, loose contacts, etc?

    You can check timing looking through the access hole at the top of the magneto cover. Static timing using a dial caliper, and running timing using a strobe light.

  3. #3

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    Battery......PS on the hose check the voltage at the battery while running is it as K447 said if not also need a voltage regulator, battery is to low to restart the unit. Oh and get a new battery.

  4. #4
    1996 SL900 & SL700 turk0004's Avatar
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    Make sure the screws that hold the timing plate to the flywheel haven't come loose.

    Dynamic timing is impossible in the hull on my SL900 (96).

    Have you done the 9v battery static timing on it?

    Turk

  5. #5
    More speed, more vert scorp jr's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input guys. We started recharging the battery today and we will see if it holds charge, if not time to buy a new one.

    Basically we went back down to the river and experimented a bit more - the ski will run in the water as long as you start it out of the water, if that makes sense. For example, we started it on the trailer then threw it in the water and it ran great. Anytime it would die (we stuck to shallower areas ~3 feet depth) we would jump off, lift the ass end up and start it, and it would start right up and then run just fine in the water once again.

    I think we have shyed away from it being a timing issue because when it starts it runs great, no sputter or anything. Does this still sound like the battery?

    I will update tonight after I get home from work and give it another go. Thanks again all!

  6. #6
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    The resistance of the water against the impeller loads the battery. I'd just replace the battery of it's an uncertainty and as everybody else stated, make sure it's charging while the engine is running.

  7. #7
    More speed, more vert scorp jr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4stroker View Post
    Battery......PS on the hose check the voltage at the battery while running is it as K447 said if not also need a voltage regulator, battery is to low to restart the unit. Oh and get a new battery.
    Could you be more specific on how to test the voltage regulator?

  8. #8
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    A good battery should measure around 12.4v idle. When the craft is running and the regulator is doing its thing, the battery should measure between 13.5-14.5v. If the volts while running is lower than that, your lr module is suspect. If not charging, the stator charging coil could be a problem too.

  9. #9
    More speed, more vert scorp jr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by starflight View Post
    A good battery should measure around 12.4v idle. When the craft is running and the regulator is doing its thing, the battery should measure between 13.5-14.5v. If the volts while running is lower than that, your lr module is suspect. If not charging, the stator charging coil could be a problem too.

    Good stuff will test this today as well. HOPEFULLY the stator coils are fine, considering the update kit is 2 days old!!

  10. #10
    More speed, more vert scorp jr's Avatar
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    update: Seems like it was the battery, gave it a charge and it started up fine in the water when we went out yesterday. Finally seems like this thing is running right (knock on wood). Thanks for all the help guys! Now onto the SLT750 that the PTO cylinder went out on... it never ends.

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