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  1. #1
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    Jpipe FAILURE/REPAIR

    A few weeks ago I started to notice a dark spot on the inside of my hull, exhaust side, near the Jpipe. Upon further investigation it was noted that my exhaust was leaking. I thought it was a loose band clamp, but it continued to get worse. It finally was determined that the leak was coming from within the bellows, underneath the braided material of the Jpipe. If the bellows was leaking, this can not be repaired as the material is too thin.

    My father happens to work for a company that makes the same material used to construct the pipe itself (even quoted BRP when they asked for a replacement). So getting the proper parts to repair the damaged area was simple, and the flex used is the same on my pipes, just a tighter corrugation.

    We cut the bellows off the pipe to save the water jacket, and it was stiff. The tear is within the bellows, and you can see in the pics that the braided shroud was starting separate. It was determined that the load on the Jpipe was NOT EVEN. This was a direct result of not tightening the exhaust in the proper order. This caused a failure within the bellows from jpipe ocillation outside of its given range.


    *** DO NOT tighten the rubber hose that connects the Jpipe and waterbox first, because when you put the strap on the box to hold it down, the Jpipe will be drawn down, resulting in a misalignment and preloaded at an angle on the flex/bellows fixture. Its best to loosely place the entire system (jpipe, hose, waterbox) in their locations, line everything up loosely. THEN tighten the band clamp, next is the strap for the box, followed up by the rubber hose connection. This will allow everything to float until secured down.


    So we gathered all the parts needed, had to make a few, sized and fitted, reused the OEM shielding, and then had the unit welded up. The overall length extended the Jpipe back just a tick over 1/2 inch, but everything went back together fine. I did have to get a new water line for the top of the pipe, but swapping out the 90 degree fitting for a straight one, then arching a long rubber hose would also work.

    Ran it this past weekend with no problems.

    If anyone has a leaky Jpipe that they would like fixed, feel free to contact me for the repair. This is an easy retrofit for anyone having issues.

    Pics below, you can see in the last one the burning marks on the inside of the hull.


    --Danny
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  2. #2
    dhoad's Avatar
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    Well now, that is interesting.

  3. #3
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    NIce work Danny.

    That is by far the hottest spot on our exhaust and is the only unjacketed part.
    You should see how hot that spot gets on the header setup.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by skoepp View Post
    NIce work Danny.

    That is by far the hottest spot on our exhaust and is the only unjacketed part.
    You should see how hot that spot gets on the header setup.
    um, YEA!

    Bad preload, intense heat, travel up/down/left/right from water chop...will eventually result in a failure. Thats why I REVERSED the inlet tube and extended it down into the pipe, to carry as much heat into the pipe. The OEM setup is backwards, but does the job...

  5. #5
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny View Post
    um, YEA!

    Bad preload, intense heat, travel up/down/left/right from water chop...will eventually result in a failure. Thats why I REVERSED the inlet tube and extended it down into the pipe, to carry as much heat into the pipe. The OEM setup is backwards, but does the job...

    YOu did very nice work.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by skoepp View Post
    YOu did very nice work.
    This one was my father's work
    THANKS DAD!

  7. #7
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    great job!

  8. #8
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    Heres marks on hull from header setup with only a few outings.

    I am surprised more people dont have the issue on j pipe.

    I ended up with some header wrap btween flange and hull.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by skoepp View Post
    Heres marks on hull from header setup with only a few outings.

    I am surprised more people dont have the issue on j pipe.

    And look at the witness marks on the hull from the heat! Mine was just soot, your's is actual burning...

  10. #10
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny View Post
    And look at the witness marks on the hull from the heat! Mine was just soot, your's is actual burning...
    Yes, I know, I never realized how hot that got until i ran headers. But after installing a j pipe back on with stock exhaust, i realized that the heat was still there, but protected a bit from the outer shell ( which you show burn marks on) and i guess the mess dispressed some heat (which you show wear).
    But never the less it has to be as hot as the the exact some dimensions that are un jacketed.

    thats where i was pulling my EGT numbers from and it is hot after long load.

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