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  1. #1

    Newbie with new-to-me '97 Hurricane and now no spark. Here's what I've done.

    I just got a '97 Hurricane last Thursday. It started up right away when I hit the button while looking it over. Brought it home, rode all day Saturday and most of Sunday.

    A strange problem on Saturday - it only wanted to fire when I released the start button but not while it was cranking. This problem went away as the day went on. I put 57 miles on it between the two days and it just died while riding on Sunday. No spark.

    I found this group and joined since it has so much technical info. Here's what I have done to troubleshoot so far and the information I have gathered:

    I have a fully-charged battery that does not drop below 10.5 volts when cranking. I have used a 2-amp charger to keep the battery topped off while testing.

    My Hurricane apparently has the updated CDI/stator/coil kit installed since it has part# 4010448 on the CDI. I found the info on Hall Effect Sensor testing and followed it. Each of the two sensors goes from infinity to about 10 ohms at their respective places when turning the engine over by hand. I assume the Hall Effect Sensors are okay.

    The ignition coil resistances also read properly so I assume that assembly is okay.

    The two things I have found to be abnormal are:
    1) The exciter coil (black to purple) reads OPEN when it should read 5.5 ohms.

    2) The brown wire is supposed to feed +8 volts from the CDI to the Hall Effects when cranking the engine. The +8 volts is NOT there.

    What do you think the problem is? I believe I have an open exciter coil. Will the CDI still provide +8 volts if the exciter coil is open?

    If and/or when removing the flywheel to access the stator, can I just remove the gas tank to get to it? Why would the exciter coil open up with this upgraded electrical kit?

    Thank you all in advance. I welcome your help and experience with my first Polaris.

    Tim


  2. #2
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    I'm sure our resident electrician will be with you shortly, but I can tell you the gas tank doesn't have to come out on a Hurricane.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberalan View Post
    I just got a '97 Hurricane last Thursday. It started up right away when I hit the button while looking it over. Brought it home, rode all day Saturday and most of Sunday.

    A strange problem on Saturday - it only wanted to fire when I released the start button but not while it was cranking. This problem went away as the day went on. I put 57 miles on it between the two days and it just died while riding on Sunday. No spark.

    I found this group and joined since it has so much technical info. Here's what I have done to troubleshoot so far and the information I have gathered:

    I have a fully-charged battery that does not drop below 10.5 volts when cranking. I have used a 2-amp charger to keep the battery topped off while testing.

    My Hurricane apparently has the updated CDI/stator/coil kit installed since it has part# 4010448 on the CDI. I found the info on Hall Effect Sensor testing and followed it. Each of the two sensors goes from infinity to about 10 ohms at their respective places when turning the engine over by hand. I assume the Hall Effect Sensors are okay.

    The ignition coil resistances also read properly so I assume that assembly is okay.

    The two things I have found to be abnormal are:
    1) The exciter coil (black to purple) reads OPEN when it should read 5.5 ohms.

    2) The brown wire is supposed to feed +8 volts from the CDI to the Hall Effects when cranking the engine. The +8 volts is NOT there.

    What do you think the problem is? I believe I have an open exciter coil. Will the CDI still provide +8 volts if the exciter coil is open?

    If and/or when removing the flywheel to access the stator, can I just remove the gas tank to get to it? Why would the exciter coil open up with this upgraded electrical kit?

    Thank you all in advance. I welcome your help and experience with my first Polaris.

    Tim
    Welcome

    I can't say why the exciter coil has failed, but if it is open circuit, that is not good.

    With no exciter voltage into the CDI, it would not surprise me that it isn't waking up, and no 8 volts on Brown wire would seem to confirm that.

    Sounds like you will need to pull that stator out.

    Double check that the exciter coil really is open circuit, and that there is no visible damage to the connector or wire bundle to the stator, or with the wire inside the electrical box.

  4. #4
    So from what I gather so far from K447, Polaris Nut#1, and pm's from KEYZBUM,

    1) (K447) The gas tank can stay in and I can still remove the flywheel to access the stator?

    2) (Polaris Nut#1) You agree that the exciter coil may be open. I've checked the wiring all the way to the stator housing and it appears okay. Looks like it's flywheel removal time. I've already removed the cover and am at that point now.

    3) (KEYZBUM) I've tried to get spark with a push of the bilge pump button to no avail.

    How is the stator accessed without removing the gas tank? I'm assuming a puller is needed, but I will access my new manual to confirm first.

    Is the stator nut lefty-loosey, righty-tighty or the opposite?

    When I determine which part(s) are needed, and since this Hurricane already has the ignition update, are the ignition update kit parts available only as a kit or seperately? Who has the best price?

    Thanks!

    Tim

  5. #5
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberalan View Post
    How is the stator accessed without removing the gas tank? I'm assuming a puller is needed, but I will access my new manual to confirm first.

    Is the stator nut lefty-loosey, righty-tighty or the opposite?
    Yes, the flywheel nut is Lefty Loosy
    You will need a flywheel puller like this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37824

    There are 3 metric threaded bolt holes in the flywheel that will be used to pull agaist when removing it. When you thread the puller bolts into the holes, be very careful not to thread them too far. If you run them in all the way you run the risk of damaging components on the stator.

    The big trick is to keep the crank stationary when wrenching on the flywheel nut and puller bolt. One option is remove the spark plugs, move the MAG piston to BDC and then back up about 1/2 way, and then stuff nylon rope through the plug hole. Use ONLY THE MAG cylinder for this method. Using the PTO will possibly result in twisting the crank out of phase. Now, when you start wrenching on the nut (or puller) the piston will move up and press against the rope and lock the crank in position. Randy http://watcon.com/products.htm used to have a nifty little toothed device that meshed with the flywheel teeth and bolted to the case to lock it in place. This performed the same function as the rope trick. You might contact Randy and see if he still has these.

    When you remove the stator, be certain to mark a line through the stator backing plate and the case with a scribe. There is a factory dimple on the plate, but it is some times hard to see. This will ensure that you keep the same timing location when you reinstall the stator.

    KJ

  6. #6
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberalan View Post
    So from what I gather so far from K447, Polaris Nut#1, and pm's from KEYZBUM,

    1) (Polaris Nut#1) The gas tank can stay in and I can still remove the flywheel to access the stator?

    2) (K447) You agree that the exciter coil may be open. I've checked the wiring all the way to the stator housing and it appears okay. Looks like it's flywheel removal time. I've already removed the cover and am at that point now.

    3) (KEYZBUM) I've tried to get spark with a push of the bilge pump button to no avail.

    How is the stator accessed without removing the gas tank? I'm assuming a puller is needed, but I will access my new manual to confirm first.

    Is the stator nut lefty-loosey, righty-tighty or the opposite?

    When I determine which part(s) are needed, and since this Hurricane already has the ignition update, are the ignition update kit parts available only as a kit or seperately? Who has the best price?

    Thanks!

    Tim
    lefty-loosey then use a puller, you got enough room

  7. #7

    Update on no-spark '97 Hurricane

    I've just removed the Hurricane's flywheel and stator. With my meter, I pin-pricked through the insulation on the purple and black wires just a half-inch before they go into the actual fine wires of the exciter coil. I still have an open reading.

    There is no obvious, visual, blown-open area to be seen on the exciter coil. I assume the open wire is underneath the outer wraps of wire or under the poured-on red insulating material at the base of the coil.

    The part# on the stator is 4010402 which is an upgraded stator number. Does anyone know where I can get just the stator and for how much? Or is it better to just get the entire igintion upgrade kit even though it's been upgraded already?

    Thanks!

    Tim

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Well, if you buy the kit, you can resell the new CDI (if it turns out you don't need the new CDI).

  9. #9
    Is Babbit's the best place to get the 2873022 Ignition Upgrade Kit? I was quoted $293.94 and it would have to be ordered from the factory.

    Tim

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberalan View Post
    Is Babbit's the best place to get the 2873022 Ignition Upgrade Kit? I was quoted $293.94 and it would have to be ordered from the factory.

    Tim
    Babbitts is not bad, another one that seems to be gettign good reviews is PartsPitStop;
    Polaris PWC Parts Sources

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