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  1. #1
    1996 SL900 & SL700 turk0004's Avatar
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    Testing of LR23 Bilge/trim

    Before heading out to the water for the first time since the rebuild of my sl900, I want to test the LR23 module which I think supplies voltage to the bilge and trim. On top of the crank I put in, I also replaced the rust electrical board. I had a manual switch for the bilge and had constant 12v to the trim so essentially the LR23 was jumped out. So, I know that my bilge and trim motor work, just want to test to see if the LR23 is working now with the new elec board. I already have 12v at the yellow wire of the LR23, so I am confused on how it is "told" to allow voltage to the motors.

    Thanks

    Turk
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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The Yellow wire changes from DC battery voltage (engine off) to an AC signal when the engine is rotating.

    The LR module watches for the AC signal on Yellow, then energizes the Orange wire, which then powers the bilge and trim.

    The LR module also uses the Yellow wire to control battery charging current, and maintains the charging voltage to the battery between 13.5 and 14.5 volts (engine running).

  3. #3
    1996 SL900 & SL700 turk0004's Avatar
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    Gotcha. So if when running in the garage for a few seconds, I hit the trim and it is functional, I can assume that the bilge may be running as well? That would be if the fuse isn't blown which I know it isn't? I guess I could put a couple of gallons of water in the hull and see if it pumps out?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turk0004 View Post
    Gotcha. So if when running in the garage for a few seconds, I hit the trim and it is functional, I can assume that the bilge may be running as well? That would be if the fuse isn't blown which I know it isn't? I guess I could put a couple of gallons of water in the hull and see if it pumps out?
    You should be able to feel the bilge pump running when you put your hand on the pump body.

    If not, some water in the hull under the pump should answer the question

    Without water, a cold engine should be OK to start and idle for 10-20 seconds without trouble, which is plenty of time to check the pump and trim.

    Also check that the battery voltage does jump up to charging range when the engine starts. Must rise above 13.0 volts

  5. #5
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turk0004 View Post
    Gotcha. So if when running in the garage for a few seconds, I hit the trim and it is functional, I can assume that the bilge may be running as well? That would be if the fuse isn't blown which I know it isn't? I guess I could put a couple of gallons of water in the hull and see if it pumps out?
    I put a volt meter on the bilge wire,check for 12v,with it connected.
    Than with the engine off (when running,I can't feel the pump running) I put the org/blk wire to the red/pur terminals,than you can deffinetly hear the pump run.

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