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  1. #1

    2003 Virage I backfires out exhaust

    I've got a
    "2003 Virage i" w direct fuel injection
    and it backfires out exhaust
    I've already checked for a sheared flywheel key
    & did the best I could by eye to check the crankshft for alignment
    all appears to be ok
    I've had it started a couple of times but didn't seem to run very well

    got a pair of them from my cousin
    after they sat for a couple of years
    I needed to change the fuel, treat it, change the plugs, also added some fuel injection cleaner
    got one of them going ok

    but the other while cranking it sounds like it's almost going to start
    however, periodically
    I'll get a very load backfire out of the exhaust

    Any ideas?
    or has another had this same problem?

    Thanks
    Carl


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    You have two of the same model, both fuel injected twin cylinder engines - correct?

    And one runs properly, the other does not?

    What is the battery voltage while the engine is cranking?
    Should be over 10.5 volts, while cranking.

    If you unplug the TPS connector near the rear of the throttle body, does it start? If it doesn't start, reconnect the TPS.

    What is the voltage on the Wire/Red wire while cranking (with both injectors still plugged in)?
    Should be over 20 volts.

    Take the EMM from the working machine, and bring it to the problem machine. Transfer the two smaller plugs from the 'bad' EMM to the borrowed EMM. One has 8 pins, the other has 12 pins. Leave the 40-pin connector connected to the 'bad' EMM.

    Does it now start?
    If it now starts, the 'bad' EMM needs repair.

    If it still does not start, transfer the 40-pin connector to the borrowed EMM. 4mm or 5/16" hex wrench is needed to loosen the connector bolt.
    If it now starts, with all three connectors attached to the borrowed EMM, then the 'bad' EMM needs repair.

  3. #3
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Also get some fresh plugs,K447, does the cutting back the plug wires help on the injection?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keddano View Post
    ...does the cutting back the plug wires help on the injection?
    At the moment, I don't recall if those Ficht spark plug caps even come off

    The ignition coils are right at the cylinders, so the plug wires are rather short.

    The plug wires can be ohm checked, of course.

    Sometimes the grounding for the ignition coils isn't so good, but that usually shows a red lamp and warning message in the MFI display

    Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines

  5. #5
    Bernie's Avatar
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    Pull out EMM and remove cover off it .You will see if there is any gell burnt .If so Need emm fixed

    Bernie

  6. #6
    yes
    it sure is great having two of the same craft for testing & swapping parts
    so as to be able to determine the problem

    Thanks for the great info & suggestions


    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome

    You have two of the same model, both fuel injected twin cylinder engines - correct?

    And one runs properly, the other does not?

    What is the battery voltage while the engine is cranking?
    Should be over 10.5 volts, while cranking.

    If you unplug the TPS connector near the rear of the throttle body, does it start? If it doesn't start, reconnect the TPS.

    What is the voltage on the Wire/Red wire while cranking (with both injectors still plugged in)?
    Should be over 20 volts.

    Take the EMM from the working machine, and bring it to the problem machine. Transfer the two smaller plugs from the 'bad' EMM to the borrowed EMM. One has 8 pins, the other has 12 pins. Leave the 40-pin connector connected to the 'bad' EMM.

    Does it now start?
    If it now starts, the 'bad' EMM needs repair.

    If it still does not start, transfer the 40-pin connector to the borrowed EMM. 4mm or 5/16" hex wrench is needed to loosen the connector bolt.
    If it now starts, with all three connectors attached to the borrowed EMM, then the 'bad' EMM needs repair.

  7. #7
    Yes the plug wires are short & removable
    don't recall seeing any warning messages & or anything out of typical as far as the red lamp goes


    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    At the moment, I don't recall if those Ficht spark plug caps even come off

    The ignition coils are right at the cylinders, so the plug wires are rather short.

    The plug wires can be ohm checked, of course.

    Sometimes the grounding for the ignition coils isn't so good, but that usually shows a red lamp and warning message in the MFI display

    Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines

  8. #8
    Also I would like to mention before geting started in swaping out the EMM components
    the running craft still isn't quite right
    As I kind of have to play around with it to get it to start
    especially when cold
    it will crank & run but then dies
    I noticed that if I keep holding the start button
    through the running & dying cycles
    I can keep it running longer or it will stay running
    if I repeat it long enough & over some time I usually can get it to keep running on it's own
    after it warms up it will start easier
    almost seems like a bad switch, relay or bad connection
    next I'm going to pull both of the EMMs & do a visual inspection


    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome

    You have two of the same model, both fuel injected twin cylinder engines - correct?

    And one runs properly, the other does not?

    What is the battery voltage while the engine is cranking?
    Should be over 10.5 volts, while cranking.

    If you unplug the TPS connector near the rear of the throttle body, does it start? If it doesn't start, reconnect the TPS.

    What is the voltage on the Wire/Red wire while cranking (with both injectors still plugged in)?
    Should be over 20 volts.

    Take the EMM from the working machine, and bring it to the problem machine. Transfer the two smaller plugs from the 'bad' EMM to the borrowed EMM. One has 8 pins, the other has 12 pins. Leave the 40-pin connector connected to the 'bad' EMM.

    Does it now start?
    If it now starts, the 'bad' EMM needs repair.

    If it still does not start, transfer the 40-pin connector to the borrowed EMM. 4mm or 5/16" hex wrench is needed to loosen the connector bolt.
    If it now starts, with all three connectors attached to the borrowed EMM, then the 'bad' EMM needs repair.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carms_us View Post
    Also I would like to mention before getting started in swapping out the EMM components

    the running craft still isn't quite right
    As I kind of have to play around with it to get it to start
    especially when cold
    it will crank & run but then dies
    I noticed that if I keep holding the start button
    through the running & dying cycles
    I can keep it running longer or it will stay running
    if I repeat it long enough & over some time I usually can get it to keep running on it's own
    after it warms up it will start easier...

    next I'm going to pull both of the EMMs & do a visual inspection
    Is all this on the trailer?
    Have you run it in the water yet?

    Unplug the TPS on that 'running' machine, see if it starts and idles better.

    Confirm the fuel pressure is over 20 PSI (which I suspect will be OK).

    Do the other listed checks, and you can also look under the EMM covers on each for burn marks. Keep track of which EMM is from which ski - write down the serial numbers

    You might want to check for stored cdes in each EMM;
    How to read Polaris Ficht EMM trouble codes without special software or a computer

  10. #10
    Wow that is strange
    when I checked the voltage going to one of the injectors as you had suggested with my digital volt meter it started right up & seems to run fine
    I disconnected the voltmeter & is still starting fine
    any ideas Of what could cause this
    I was thinking some kind of ground issue, or bad connection

    guess next I'll just let it cool all the way down & try it again
    via a cold start


    Originally Posted by K447
    Welcome

    You have two of the same model, both fuel injected twin cylinder engines - correct?

    And one runs properly, the other does not?

    What is the battery voltage while the engine is cranking?
    Should be over 10.5 volts, while cranking.

    If you unplug the TPS connector near the rear of the throttle body, does it start? If it doesn't start, reconnect the TPS.

    What is the voltage on the Wire/Red wire while cranking (with both injectors still plugged in)?
    Should be over 20 volts.

    Take the EMM from the working machine, and bring it to the problem machine. Transfer the two smaller plugs from the 'bad' EMM to the borrowed EMM. One has 8 pins, the other has 12 pins. Leave the 40-pin connector connected to the 'bad' EMM.

    Does it now start?
    If it now starts, the 'bad' EMM needs repair.

    If it still does not start, transfer the 40-pin connector to the borrowed EMM. 4mm or 5/16" hex wrench is needed to loosen the connector bolt.
    If it now starts, with all three connectors attached to the borrowed EMM, then the 'bad' EMM needs repair.

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