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  1. #1
    ryandi2's Avatar
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    Unhappy I need help!!!!!!!

    i have a polaris sl 1050 and it some how shorted out frieing the black negitive wire going in to the electical box i took apart the electical box and the what i belive is the cdi box has a hole right threw it but i think thats all that was dammaged i need to know where to get another one and if i have to up grade the stator as well???? i just bought this thing and it was running great then some how it got shorted and shut off on me while i was riding and i opened the seat and smoke came out from where the electical box is! i really could use any info you guys have!!!!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    You can ohm test the stator coils and Hall Effect sensors;
    Polaris Domestic (red) engine

    How do I tell whether I have an updated or original type domestic ignition?

    Pay close attention to the battery ground cable, both ends, and the black stator ground wire.

    John Zigler would be a good place to start with, looking for a replacement CDI;
    Polaris PWC Parts Sources

  3. #3
    ryandi2's Avatar
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    thanks for the post back.. but just say the stator is fine can i jsut buy the cdi or do i have to up gradeevery thing and i dont want to sound like a noob but i dont know how to ohm test.. im trying to learn every thing i can..

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryandi2 View Post
    ... but just say the stator is fine can i just buy the cdi or do i have to up grade every thing and i don't want to sound like a noob but i don't know how to ohm test..
    I'm trying to learn every thing i can..
    What model and year is your 1050?
    (Last two digits of the HIN number on the rear deck are the year)

    What part number is on the burned CDI?

    If your 1050 has the original ignition system, now is the time to purchase and install the Ignition System Update Kit. The Update kit is not much more expensive than buying a new CDI alone, and the upgrade parts are more reliable than the original design. New and old parts can not be combined, so the new CDI will not work with the old stator.

    Installing the upgrade kit is mostly a mechanical challenge, since it involves pulling the flywheel off. If you have a friend who is mechanically inclined, or you are willing to get your hands dirty and learn as you go, we can help you along

    Polaris domestic engine Ignition System Update Kits

    All 1996-1999 two and three cylinder carburetor engines
    Kit part numbers 2873091, 2873022, 2873355, 2873356
    The original factory ignition in these engines was not reliable over time, so Polaris issued ignition update kits.
    '...It WILL fail eventually...'
    Each kit includes an updated CDI module, magneto stator, and for the two cylinder engines a new Ignition Coil.

    You can check whether you already have the update by checking your CDI part number.

  5. #5
    ryandi2's Avatar
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    this is the sl 1050 which is the 97. i am still not positive on how it shourted yet but i will look again i am not use if i have the up date kit ill look but it was running great before but if you think i should replace it i will haha i was just hoping to ride it before taking it out for the winter.. but i think i prob could do it i dont have a fly wheel puller but ill figure it out... ill give you an update on if i have the up date kit or not.. all i saw because i looked fast and there was a melted hole frew it was a number like 403... or some thing like that.. thanks for all the help so far and for in advance!!

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Look on both front and back of the CDI for numbers.

    Some CDI have a hand written number on the back (usually in white or yellow). If it does, then that is the part number (or at least the last few digits of the number).

  7. #7
    ryandi2's Avatar
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    ok so i was just reading the post again and now i believe the stator wire is the one that fried this picture is the wire.. but when i looked in the box i noticed the crimp type thing was fried and burned on one side going to the cdi box but not the other where im assuming goes too the stator.. good news? i still got to check the cdi part number i will prob get to that tomarrow im going to pull the ski out of the water so i can work on it easyer on my trailer.. so we will see..
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryandi2 View Post
    .... i believe the stator wire is the one that fried this picture is the wire.. but when i looked in the box i noticed the crimp type thing was fried and burned on one side going to the cdi box but not the other where im assuming goes too the stator.. good news?
    Your picture is fuzzy, but that may very well be a fusable link, not a butt connector ("crimp type thing"). Or, it could just be a butt connector someone installed due to a chaffed or cut wire.

    Remove the battery, cut out the "crimp" thing, and reconnect the wire. Now, perform all the OHM tests on the electronics. If everything reads okay, its possible your only failure was this connection. If you don't get good readings, you've at least eliminated one problem point. Also note, if this was a fusable link, those only "burn out" when they are overloaded, so be sure all readings are correct before reinstalling the battery. Otherwise, you really do run the risk of frying something.

    KJ

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    ryandi2's Avatar
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    sorry about the fuzzy pic. but the butt conecctors are what are on all the wires to the cdi box (i belive thats how you can reconect and disconect the cdi) and only one wire the black one which i belive is the negitive to the stator is fried but the cdi its self is shot had a hole melted threw.. but i looked at all the wires (farly quickly) and only the one end of the butt conector was bad and the other side was good..ill try to post pictures later.. but i got to find why it shorted still i am thinking the wire was damaged a litle and got water on it or grounded it self out.. but the only damage seems to be the cdi box.. ill do a ohm test but i have know idea how too..(dont like dealing with electical)..bad experiances... thanks ryan

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryandi2 View Post
    ...I dont want to sound like a noob but i dont know how to ohm test.. im trying to learn every thing i can..
    Quote Originally Posted by ryandi2 View Post
    ... but i looked at all the wires (farly quickly) and only the one end of the butt connector was bad and the other side was good..ill try to post pictures later..

    but i got to find why it shorted still i am thinking the wire was damaged a little and got water on it or grounded it self out.. but the only damage seems to be the cdi box.. ill do a ohm test but i have know idea how too..(don't like dealing with electrical)..bad experiences... thanks ryan
    Find a friend or neighbor who is comfortable with electrical or electronic stuff.

    Water alone will not cause a short that would melt wires. Corrode, yes, but not melt.

    What you are looking for is direct electrical metal-to-metal contact between two things that should not have been touching.

    One common problem on some models is if the shell of the electrical box is allowed to touch the positive battery post. That will definitely cause a short circuit, and will melt wires. Is it possible that the electrical box was loose and moving around in the hull, or not properly insulated from touching the battery posts?

    The crimp type connectors are called 'bullet connectors'. They simply pull apart. If you have one that is burned, the normal repair would be to replace both halves, since the other half probably also got warm and may be weakened. A close visual inspection may tell you whether both halves need to be replaced, or just one side.

    If your 1997 has the original ignition system (determined by the old CDI part number), then you are a prime candidate for purchasing and installing an ignition system update kit.

    The update kit contains both a new stator and a new CDI, and is priced at a discount to buying either part separately. Even better, the update parts are more reliable than the original parts.

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