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  1. #1

    Fly wheel key, virage Tx

    All right, hope i can get some help. I just discovered that my flywheel key is sheard. Does any one know of any tricks to get the broken key out of the crank. I assume i need to pull the stator, but the key looks as if it is kinda smeared in there.
    Let you know my situation so you have a better understanding of what im going through. I took it up to a local watercraft mechanic in Austin, to have a no spark issue fixed. I thought it was the stator, and so did they, but it was the C.D.I. So $800 later i take the ski up to houston to have the flywheel come off on me 15 miles out in lake conroe. I take it back to them to let them fix there screw up, which they did, kinda. I get my ski back to find they sunk it in there test tank, and then try to hide it from me. So i take it for a test run, and i noticed it hade no top end. I rebuilt my carbs, but the ski wasnt firing, had spark just wouldnt fire, triple checked my pop off pressure, and came to the conclusion my carbs werent the issue. I figured my timing was off, due to the recent work on the stator and flywheel. Pulled the flywheel cover, noticed the nut was loose again, and i could turn the flywheel about 1/16" in both directions. So i pulled my flywheel to discover the key is sheared. i dont want to take it back to them,(i wouldnt let them change my spark plugs at this point) but i do think it is there fault, due to key probley getting damaged from the flywheel coming off the first time, and they probley didnt replace it.
    So basically im wanting to do it my self, but the key looks like it is going to be a bogger to get out without pulling the engine. Any ideas


  2. #2
    Take a small punch or nail set and tap down on one end of the key its round on the bottom and will roll right out. Ed

  3. #3
    yeah i was just out there meesing with it and it rolled out like you described, i thought it would be a straight key and not a half moon. So now getting a new one, can i just find one from a small engine repaire place. i would love to ride the ski this weekend, and it takes about a week for any parts to get here if i oreder a replacment. i would assume i could.

  4. #4
    If you have one try ace hardware or lawnmower shop home depot ?

  5. #5
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk.

    You may need to Lap the crank snout with the flywheel so it does not happen again. Get some clover (lapping compound) and smear some on the crank snout and lap it with the flywheel till you get a nice clean finish. Then clean and install the flywheel use loc-tite red on the nut and torque to spec..

  6. #6
    Well i was looking at the crank and inside the flywheel. It doesnt look scared. Im more worried about the magnet right know. You can see were something came in contact with it and rubbed it. I figured it was probley from the first time the flywheel came off. Yeah im going to search tomarow for the key. Now, keeping the flywheel on, apperantly there is a issue with keeping it on. I dont know what the shop torqued the nut too, they told me 110 foutpounds, and they did use loctite on the nut, i saw that my self when pulling it off. There was none on the crank and flywheel though. Is there any reason that it might be backing out, or is the shop just not doing it right.

  7. #7
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by griffinbk View Post
    I dont know what the shop torqued the nut too, they told me 110 foutpounds, and they did use loctite on the nut, i saw that my self when pulling it off. There was none on the crank and flywheel though. Is there any reason that it might be backing out, or is the shop just not doing it right.
    I think Beerdart meant to say red (262) loc-tite on the crank taper and blue (242) loc-tite on the threads as that is the procedure. Nut torque is 90 ft/lbs

  8. #8
    polaristxi's Avatar
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    Worn Flywheel?

    Check the surface on the flywheel that the washer and nut torque against. The flywheel outer shroud should cover the inner adjustor plate. Mine was worn thru so the nut was torquing against the inner plate. Install a washer to make up for the lost material and than a large area washer that rests on both the shroud and inner plate washer.

    The worn area almost looked like it was machined that way. Got alot of hours out of ski with a cheap fix.

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