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  1. #1
    Waveruiner pauladave's Avatar
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    Clearcoat and decals

    I'm getting conflicting advise from spray shops about decals on my re-spray project. Once I've sprayed the primer and the 2 pack metallic blue colour coat, should I lightly sand the ski, then add the decals, then apply 3-4 coats of clearcoat (lacquer) to bury the decals in the clearcoat, or should I apply 2-3 clearcoats on top of the colour, then lightly sand, and then decals, followed by another couple of clearcoats on top of that, or does it not matter either way? The other alternative is to finish the paintjob, then add the decals afterwards, like the factory does. I do like the effect of decals under clearcoat, as they look much more professional I think. The decals are all 5-7 year vinyl, in a mixture of colours including black, white and multicolour, if that matters. Thank's. DaveW.


  2. #2
    Stop staring at my tits NJJer's Avatar
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    Dave, my buddy who is doing mine will add the decals after he paints the base coat, and preps it as usual before adding the clear.

    I take this to mean sand before clearing?

    I want my decals buried in the clear so you can't feel them.

    How is the paint scheme coming? Reach a final decision on it yet?

  3. #3
    Waveruiner pauladave's Avatar
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    Yeah. I want the same effect, so the decals feel smooth under the clear. I've done some experiments with the decals in different positions, and I've got a good idea where everything is going. The hood will be white with the '46' decal and Fiat decal on top, then into a blue stripe, then white stripe, then into metallic blue for the rest of the top deck of the ski, with the various sponsors (Packard Bell, Fastweb, Yamalube etc near to the front area, and the Rossi sun and moon on either side near to the back. . The hull from the rubbing strake down will be a pearlescent white, with the Petronas logo on the side. I've done a deal with a farmer nearby, and he's giving me space in a small barn which I can partition off to create a work area for 3 months. With 6 decent flood lamps I should be able to create a nice warm and dry work area which should be warm enough for the 2 pack to harden, even in our winter temps! Not going to start until November as we keep getting nice days like today! I had a great couple of hours out on the Irish Sea, with a good 3 foot chop today!

  4. #4
    Stop staring at my tits NJJer's Avatar
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    That sounds good. Looks like your plan is coming along.

    3 foot chop? This old man stays away from that stuff.

    I will email you the next round of Photoshop my buddy does so you can see what mine is getting too. Still not near final, but getting closer.

  5. #5
    Waveruiner pauladave's Avatar
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    This 'old man' will be sorry tomorrow! My legs always feel like I've been down the gym and forgotten when to stop the day after I've been out in chop, and I forgot to take any sunscreen, so I'll look like a red traffic light too! Still, it's a good way to get some much needed excercise! I guess the paint scheme will be a bit of trial and error, no matter how well it looks on paper, but that's part of the thrill of it!

  6. #6

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    You should just be able to apply your base, then apply your decals without sanding, then add clear.

    I don't see a reason to sand the base before applying the decals or clear, you will totally mess the base up if you sand it. Long as you spray your clear in a 24hr window it will bond.

    If for some reason you mess up your base, like scratch it or mark it up, then you can sand it to remove to the problems, but you will have to reapply another coat of base over what you sanded.

    Personally I like just putting decals on after the whole paint job is done but thats because I'm an auto painter and if it ever needs repair in the future its a major pain.

  7. #7
    Waveruiner pauladave's Avatar
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    OK Ronn, thank's for that. I thought the base needed to be keyed, but I'll take your advise and get the clear on within 24 hours. I also note your caution for the decals to be over the clear, and that makes sense too. Lots to think about. Regards, Dave.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by pauladave View Post
    OK Ronn, thank's for that. I thought the base needed to be keyed, but I'll take your advise and get the clear on within 24 hours. I also note your caution for the decals to be over the clear, and that makes sense too. Lots to think about. Regards, Dave.

    Yes most base/clear has a 24hr window that the clear needs to be put on but read up on the brand your using.

    Long as the base is applied smooth enough and with little trash, the decals can be put on without problems.

    Its almost impossible to sand a metallic base and then apply clear without sand scratches showing. So if for some reason you have to sand the base, just put another coat of base on to straighten it out.

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