08-17-2006, 01:01 PM #1
Original RXP/GPR Engine Swap (The Resurrection of Vigilante)
How is the swap going hydrotoys? are you still doing this project? When do you plan on completing it? What perf. parts are on the RXP engine?
08-18-2006, 01:42 PM #2
The donor craft: 04RXP
I'm not that far away. The driveshaft was the big issue, and it is complete. I just ordered new yami bearings for the support housing, and am looking at what type of support for it to use.
The waterbox is the next gotcha. Due to the shape/angle of the two different hulls, the stock waterbox would actually HIT the supercharger, if the J-pipe is installed. I've noted that if I cut out some more inner hull from the port-side footwell I could shove the stock waterbox into it, with the right angle. HOWEVER, I see that Rotax Racing now has a waterbox with the inlet in front, and the outlet in rear... This seems like a natural fit. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing if it will work...without plopping down big bucks... So I just plopped down the big bucks, and have the RR waterbox coming now. If it fits, then that will shave a bunch of time off the build.
Next is pretty much clean up work.
-Fiberglass/CF areas that I cut up to make fit.
-Install my heat exchanger for closed loop.
-Install my open loop cooling to the IC.
-Plumb the waterbox over to the stock GPR outlet.
-Fabricate an air intake to the front.
-Finish installing the battery (cool mount in front of engine, behind gas tank)
-Install gpr pump and steering.
-Install throttle trigger and cable.
- Dry test.
- Wet test.
- Pressure test IC loop.
- Closed Loop cooling test.
- 8000rpm targetting of prop.
- Mech tab installation.
- Speed testing.
- Endurance Testing.
- Rip it all apart and inspect mounts, etc... Fabricate mounts out of marine resistant materials (aluminum, SST, etc...)
- Reinstall and redesign/repair new gotchas.
I'll add and subtract things on this thread as it goes along. You can find pictures here too.
R/R front engine mount.
Modified Air Intake.
80,000 BTU heat exhanger to replace rideplate cooling.
Last edited by Hydrotoys; 06-25-2008 at 05:34 AM.
08-18-2006, 02:12 PM #3
Nice project. WHat the hell happened to the "donor craft" RXP. It looks really bad!
08-18-2006, 02:20 PM #4
It's sitting in my driveway till I take it to the dump. I've just been real busy lately.
Oh crap, you made me remember, I'm supposed to send the hull loops to somebody, and can't remember who it was.
Weighing the RXP engine.
Test fitting the engine in the hull.
Alignment shaft used to do preliminary alignment of engine to pump tunnel.
Original conversion mounts.
Last edited by Hydrotoys; 06-25-2008 at 05:41 AM.
08-19-2006, 03:43 PM #5
Closed loop cooling trials...
05 Gauge install to Yamaha dash
UMI switch housing.
This is the waterbox issue I'm running into. The SeaDoo Hull and the Yamaha hull places the angle of the water box into two seperate angles.
I'm approaching it from a few different ideas.
1. flip the stock waterbox around and cut an intake near the end.
2. Try the RR waterbox.
3. Cut under the footwell, and angle the stock waterbox under it.
Last edited by Hydrotoys; 06-25-2008 at 05:47 AM.
08-19-2006, 07:08 PM #6
I meant, do you know how it got that way? Nice pics
08-19-2006, 07:24 PM #7
Not exactly. Looks like it slide down a surface for a while, without flipping.
08-19-2006, 07:29 PM #8
Ill help ya out with the j pipe.
just figure out how you want the angle and cut it.
dry fit and mark everything and ill welded the double jacket up for ya.
08-19-2006, 07:33 PM #9
I had emailed you about this and the open loop plate, but never heard back from you.
I've already ordered the RR water box. If it doesn't pan out, I'll try and get in touch with you again.
08-22-2006, 12:48 AM #10
The RR waterbox came in today as i was leaving for work. I rushed back inside and fitted it up real quick with the J-pipe. It fits pretty nice, at first glance.
I have only two places hitting now... both the top J-pipe water fitting, and the lower manifold/J-pipe water fitting. I "think" since these are external welded in pieces, any good SST welder can move these around for me, pretty easy.
Can anyone tell me why I need to cut off the bottom of the J-pipe, that goes inside the waterbox? What is the reasoning behind this?
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