Thread: UT OH!!!
09-20-2009, 09:57 PM #1
So I tried once again today to find out why the 2000 GTX would not start, first couldent find out why it wasnt getting any gas, so I put a primer bulb in the line which seemed to fix that problem, try again for 30 or so minutes with no luck, get some more friends to come over and take a look, we do a redneck compression test with my thumb and come to realize the rear cylinder has no compression, Next was to take the heads off, heres what we find......
This is the rear cylinder, with about a 1/4 inch size hole right through the top of it, front cylinder looks like this.......
Here on the front cylinder are metal chunks out of piston and where could they have possibly gone?? Oh how about onto the head itself.........
Now to not be confused, the cylinder with a hole in it is actually from the better looking side of the head, the cylinder with compression is the one with all the metal flakes attached to it.
So to finish out the day i began removing the cylinder jugs and have stopped there. The plan for now is to just replace what is broken and carry on. Is this wrong?? What else should I be doing, My biggest concern is this is on a engine that was replaced 1.5 years ago due to a cylinder not getting oil and seizing. My plan was to leave the block in the hull and just do everything inside or is it easier to remove it completely?? I need some help on this one. Anything will be appriciated.
Right now Im looking for a
1 Cylinder head
2 Pistons with Rings
1 Gasket Set
all for a 951. Let me know
09-20-2009, 10:02 PM #2
09-20-2009, 10:32 PM #3
I would say a fuel system would be in order too.
See the sticky...it heals all.
09-21-2009, 07:32 AM #4
Lean and some detonation,,
what heat range plugs are in it?
09-21-2009, 08:31 AM #5
Plugs are BR8ES's they are what have been in it from day one, very well could be the reason for the other motor blowing up as well. The fuel lines were just changed out, what else could be done to the fuel system?? I am also considering switching to a premix while i have it all torn apart but I havent been able to find a good write up of how to do it. If someone has one that would be great. Also since there was pitting in the one cylinder and a hole punched through the other there are a few metal shavings in the bottom, Should i pull the whole motor out or will I be able to clean it all while still in the hull. Again this is my first time so I really appriciate all the help and wanted to say thank you for the info I have already gotten.
09-21-2009, 08:48 AM #6
I always pull the engine to do a top end. In this case you will want to inspect the crank and clean the hell out of it. There are not many places that stuff could hide, but it only takes one (and a small one at that) to ruin a crank or a new top end.
BR8ES plugs are correct and DID NOT cause this. Neither did the oil pump. That engine was lean. The Deto was caused by the lean condition.
If the fuel lines were changed that is great. Were the carbs cleaned, rebuilt, the fuel valve? Both cylinders show evidence of it being lean. That gray ashy look of the pistons is a big clue. Both cylinders were hot as hell. The rear one detoed at the plug and the front one detoed in the squish band.
Yet the cylinder walls look to be shiny and wet so it was getting oil.
Switch to pre-mix if you feel you must but IMO, it only hurts the operability of a rec boat. The best bet would be to take the opportunity to inspect the small oil lines while it is out and change as needed since the lines are the only real weak spot and that is mostly due to people never checking them.
Now it depends on what you find when you break the cases open (and I would since you will want new crank end seals on there at minimum and you can also get a nice new seal on the cases) but you should consider a new crank since that one was getting the crap beat out of it by deto for an undetermined amount of time. The big rod bearings can only take so much.
09-22-2009, 07:05 AM #7
Yep the 8's should be fine, wanted to make sure you did not have a 7 or 6 in there,, I have seen them in before,
as Krunch asked when the fuel lines were replaced were the carbs opened up and serviced??
that needs to be done before running the motor after rebuilding it
09-22-2009, 07:27 PM #8
09-22-2009, 08:46 PM #9
Man, that sounds like a bit of work right there.
The trick I found is to put the four corner studs into the cases and have a helper hold the cylinder in place while I work the rings into the bore and then rotate the piston up into the cylinder. The studs keep the block aligned and make it a lot easier to do.
09-22-2009, 09:54 PM #10
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
Looks to me like a timing issue. How many hrs on it since the rebuild? too late to find out now if it was timed right. has the base timing been changed via the dealer programmer?
In a long shot, how long since the rebuild of the carbs did it break because you could of installed some carb internals wrong, causing the really bad lean issue
be sure to correctly time the engine after the rebuild, and the C/B shaft and the crank have to be positioned correctly, get a manual
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