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  1. #1

    2002 virage txi 1200 will not start/no power (electrical)

    Previous owner sold the ski not running so i know no history.Put in a brand new battery(fully charged) and i get nothing-no power no clicks and no MFD display.I have checked the cables and everything is clean-power and ground.but when i put a test light on the negative side of the battery and touch the engine block it lights up.So what could be causing the engine to not be grounded?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks in advance.
    Doug


  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by YZDOUGLAS View Post
    Previous owner sold the ski not running so i know no history.Put in a brand new battery(fully charged) and i get nothing-no power no clicks and no MFD display.

    I have checked the cables and everything is clean-power and ground.

    but when i put a test light on the negative side of the battery and touch the engine block it lights up.

    So what could be causing the engine to not be grounded?...
    How did you 'check' the battery cables?
    Just visually?

    Have a look here
    Owning a used PWC - you have to check EVERYTHING!

    Remove the heavy black ground cable from the engine block. Check for zero ohms back to the battery negative from the cable end.

    Clean the engine block where the cable connects (no paint, just bare metal), and clean out the bolt hole threads with a thread tap. Clean the bolt threads, and clean the cable end to ensure clean metal-to-metal contact.

    Re-assemble the connection to the engine. Do not put any dielectric insulating grease under or between the parts.

    Now you should have a solid, zero ohm connection between the engien block and the battery ground.

    Once the engine and electrical system are working properly again, you can then smear some dielectric grease over the exterior of the cleaned connections.

    Don't apply dielectric grease to the contacting surfaces of any electrical connector, since the grease is an insulator, not an electrical conductor.

  3. #3
    Changed over the negative cable(just ran a new cable to where the fuel injector ground) and everything electrical worked.My only problem now is the MFD gauge never goes off,the ski will start only if i play with the throttle but will die within 2-3 seconds no matter what and the ski will start with the lanyard not installed.Any other help/suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks again
    Doug

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by YZDOUGLAS View Post
    Changed over the negative cable (just ran a new cable to where the fuel injector ground) and everything electrical worked.

    ...now is the MFD gauge never goes off,

    the ski will start only if i play with the throttle but will die within 2-3 seconds no matter what...

    the ski will start with the lanyard not installed...
    You grounded the battery to where?
    A fuel injector bolt

    Why would you do that?
    Fuel injectors bolts need to be torqued carefully and evenly, and the torque spec isn't very high.

    The normal battery ground bolt on that engine isn't very hard to get at.

    The clock on the display should always be visible - the display does not blank out. It does go into sleep mode after five minutes.

    You can verify this by pressing the display button after waiting more than five minutes. The LCD screen will light up all segments, and the speedo needle will go full sweep.

    It sounds like the previous owner (or someone else) may have messed with the electrical system.

    You need to check the wiring around and to the LR Start/Stop module. Either the LR module has failed, or someone has changed the wiring around.

    You also need to look for any signs of anything else being incorrect - wiring or otherwise.

    Have you checked fuel pressure yet?
    Should be over 20PSI, and the electric fuel pump should start as soon as the engine starts cranking.

    More info here;
    Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines

  5. #5
    I ran a new ground cable to the engine block down by the exhaust manifold (where the fuel inj gound-not to the inj themselve) got 0 ohms from the groung to the battery.Engine has spark with the lanyard attached/none when taken out,compression reads 130+- across the board,have not been able to check fuel pressure yet but i did pull the injectors and cranked the engine,all 3 are squirting fuel and the fuel pump does run.The ski will try to start but will never run for more than a second or two at a time and if it does start for a second it backfires when it dies.So other than checking fuel pressure what other items should i check for?
    Thanks again for your time.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by YZDOUGLAS View Post
    I ran a new ground cable to the engine block down by the exhaust manifold (where the fuel inj ground-not to the inj themselves) got 0 ohms from the ground to the battery.
    I imagine this is a wire harness ground point you are referring to, since the fuel injectors themselves don't have any ground wire connection.

    Engine has spark with the lanyard attached/none when taken out, compression reads 130+- across the board, have not been able to check fuel pressure yet but i did pull the injectors and cranked the engine, all 3 are squirting fuel and the fuel pump does run.

    The ski will try to start but will never run for more than a second or two at a time and if it does start for a second it backfires when it dies.

    So other than checking fuel pressure what other items should i check for?
    Thanks again for your time.
    Make sure you have the correct wire colors connected to each Ficht ignition coil primary.
    MAG coil primary is Orange/Blue wire
    CEN coil primary is Orange/Purple wire
    PTO coil primary is Orange/Green wire

    Also make sure the injector connections are correct;
    MAG injector - Blue wire
    CEN injector - Purple wire
    PTO injector - Green wire

    Just to cover all the bases, confirm the CPS sensor ohms are in range. Normally around 140 ohms, must be under 200 ohms.

    Have a look at this thread for some other things you can check;
    2001 Genesis issues

  7. #7
    Checked the inj and coil wires,all are hooked up correctly,forgot my multi meter at work so i wasn't able to check the ohm's,but with a test light i'm getting ground to all 3 coils,and when i crank the ski the light starts to get bright,other wire obviously.Clamped off the line after the schrader valve and got about 5psi if that,so there lies a problem.Now when i drained the fuel line to the pressure tester i found the fuel was a thicker than normal yellow color for gas.So my next idea was to drain the tank and start with fresh fuel as well,but i still need advise on the fuel pressure question--I also pulled each injector and they are squirting fuel,and if i put a little premix down each cylinder it will only start for one second then die out,usually a vehicle will run for at least a few seconds with the amount of fuel that i dump down the intake?
    I greatly appreciate all the help/suggestions.
    Doug

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by YZDOUGLAS View Post
    ...Clamped off the line after the schrader valve and got about 5psi if that, so there lies a problem.

    ...if i put a little premix down each cylinder it will only start for one second then die out,usually a vehicle will run for at least a few seconds with the amount of fuel that i dump down the intake?..
    Since you had an electrical problem to begin with, make sure the electric fuel pump is actually running.

    The fuel pump gets continuous battery power, even when engine is off. The EMM then grounds the Brown wire to run the fuel pump.

    You can run the fuel pump manually by grounding the Brown wire from the fuel pump connector. Make sure full battery voltage is getting to the fuel pump, and re-check fuel pressure with the Brown wire grounded.

    If, even with the fuel return line to the tank fully clamped off, you are not seeing enough fuel pressure, then the fuel pump needs to be replaced.

    If clamping the return fuel line does boost pressure up to around 30PSI, then the pump can probably be repaired by re-attaching the pressure regulator inside the pump body.

  9. #9
    Things I've checked.
    CPS 148ohms
    Inj all have power/ground,pulled them out and they squirt fuel,fuel pressure while cranking 20-25ish (when it tries to start i get around 30-35),and each inj ohm to .9-1.0
    battery shows 12.4,when it starts briefly it goes up to 13.5ish on the gauge.
    First time after it sits for a while it will start with no throttle,after that you have to hold it wide open to get it to start again (1-2seconds then it dies)
    spark plugs never look to wet/dry (has great spark)and it will start the same whether i pour a little premix down the intake or just crank it normally.
    Drained 95% of the gas filled it with new 91 octane and it fired right up the first time and idles for about 30-45 seconds with alot of backfiring,but then after that it went right back to the way it was with a no start.
    What to check next?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by YZDOUGLAS View Post
    ...fuel pressure while cranking 20-25ish (when it tries to start i get around 30-35)

    ... First time after it sits for a while it will start with no throttle, after that you have to hold it wide open to get it to start again (1-2 seconds then it dies)

    spark plugs never look to wet/dry (has great spark) and it will start the same whether i pour a little premix down the intake or just crank it normally.

    Drained 95% of the gas filled it with new 91 octane and it fired right up the first time and idles for about 30-45 seconds with a lot of backfiring, but then after that it went right back to the way it was with a no start.

    What to check next?
    Fuel pressure should not change when the engine starts - it is an electric fuel pump.

    Right now I am suspecting the EMM has a problem.

    Try this - disconnect the battery negative. Wait a minute, then reconnect. See if it starts without squeezing the throttle.

    If it acts different right after the battery has been disconnected and then reconnected, then the EMM may need repair.

    DFI Technologies Inc.
    Repair and update of Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) EMM used in Polaris Direct Injection (DI) PWC engines.
    Email: [email protected]
    [email protected]
    DFI Technologies
    22638 Canal Rd
    Orange Beach, AL
    USA 36561
    1-866-298-1510
    +1 (251) 974-5210 Voice
    +1 (251) 974-5226 FAX

    Note: Call or email first before sending EMM

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