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  1. #1

    Winterize tips first time 97 GTI

    Heh guys,

    I'm way up in the North, summer has been thin, snow around the corner.
    Any must knows about putting away the GTI before freeze up. I'm quite handy as long as no shop equipment required.
    Please advise on best procedures.

    Thanks in advance

    Beachbum


  2. #2
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    syphon the gas or add aditive, gas shelf life is only 90 days, fog your engine, with fogging oil through the spark plug holes, make it turn over a few times but dont crank it, to get the fogging oil nice and spread on the cylinders, and diconnect your battery, (i usually take the battery out and keep it in my shop.

  3. #3
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    If the boat is kept outside your best bet is to put Stabil in the gas and fill the tank all the way up. Make sure and run it with the addative in the tank so it gets into the carbs. I do not like to run my carbs dry but some guys do. If you pre-mix, it may be better to do so.

    If you live where temps will be at or below 32F for extended periods of time you will want to put anti-freeze in the engine.

    You can use the car stuff and like with a car, you will need a 50/50 AF to water mix (pure ethalene Glycol WILL FREEZE). But, that crap is toxic and you really do not want to dump it in the lake.

    Get RV antifreeze. It needs no mixing and is non-toxic (it is safe in fresh water tanks).

    Now, you will need to look at a manual to see exactly what to do per your boat/engine.

    When you put it up for the winter is also a good time to change the pump oil. That way if you do have some water in there it does not sit in your pump for several months.

    Now, you do not have to fog it if you can start it up (and run it for about 30 seconds, long enough to get a little heat in there) once a week. If you can do it once a week and not miss, it is better than fogging it, IMO. This is what I have done ever since I first got into these things.

    If you choose to fog it, it is best done with the boat running on the hose. It will smoke like crazy and bog down so be ready to kill the water if it dies (though they normlly do not). On a stock air box there is a hole to spray the fogging oil into. Fog the crap out of and then kill the water, and the engine before it can burn too much of it out.

    Then you go and do the antifreeze. For obvious reasons, the fogging should be done first.

    I would also give it two or three booster hits over the winter. Pull the plugs out and ground the wires. Then spray some in the plug holes and then into the carbs while you turn it over with the starter for about 10 seconds. Then put the plugs back in and feel good about storing your boat.

    As a final little touch take some spray silicone or WD-40 (that sort of thing) and spray down the inside of the hull, the engine, MPEM, E-box, clamps, ect. This helps displace moisture and discourage corrosian. Also try keep the seat cracked to let the hull ventilate. This will help prevent condensation.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX View Post
    If the boat is kept outside your best bet is to put Stabil in the gas and fill the tank all the way up. Make sure and run it with the addative in the tank so it gets into the carbs. I do not like to run my carbs dry but some guys do. If you pre-mix, it may be better to do so.

    If you live where temps will be at or below 32F for extended periods of time you will want to put anti-freeze in the engine.

    You can use the car stuff and like with a car, you will need a 50/50 AF to water mix (pure ethalene Glycol WILL FREEZE). But, that crap is toxic and you really do not want to dump it in the lake.

    Get RV antifreeze. It needs no mixing and is non-toxic (it is safe in fresh water tanks).

    Now, you will need to look at a manual to see exactly what to do per your boat/engine.

    When you put it up for the winter is also a good time to change the pump oil. That way if you do have some water in there it does not sit in your pump for several months.

    Now, you do not have to fog it if you can start it up (and run it for about 30 seconds, long enough to get a little heat in there) once a week. If you can do it once a week and not miss, it is better than fogging it, IMO. This is what I have done ever since I first got into these things.

    If you choose to fog it, it is best done with the boat running on the hose. It will smoke like crazy and bog down so be ready to kill the water if it dies (though they normlly do not). On a stock air box there is a hole to spray the fogging oil into. Fog the crap out of and then kill the water, and the engine before it can burn too much of it out.

    Then you go and do the antifreeze. For obvious reasons, the fogging should be done first.

    I would also give it two or three booster hits over the winter. Pull the plugs out and ground the wires. Then spray some in the plug holes and then into the carbs while you turn it over with the starter for about 10 seconds. Then put the plugs back in and feel good about storing your boat.

    As a final little touch take some spray silicone or WD-40 (that sort of thing) and spray down the inside of the hull, the engine, MPEM, E-box, clamps, ect. This helps displace moisture and discourage corrosian. Also try keep the seat cracked to let the hull ventilate. This will help prevent condensation.
    Thanks for the heads up, did the winterize this past weekend. The info was golden. It went very well. PWC's into the corner out come the sleds for some overdue loving. Thanks again.
    BeachBum

  5. #5
    If you live where temps will be at or below 32F for extended periods of time you will want to put anti-freeze in the engine.


    When you say this - Do you mean to say you actually put antifreeze inside the cylinders. Take the plugs out and drop a little down in there? If so, How much?

    I have a 2002 GTi - I just figured I would do all that is stated on this post, am I safe to do that even though our seadoo's are a slightly different year?

  6. #6
    canadaxp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davpmars View Post
    When you say this - Do you mean to say you actually put antifreeze inside the cylinders. Take the plugs out and drop a little down in there? If so, How much?
    NOOOOOO!!! Only where there is water for cooling. NONE down the cylinders!!!! Oil (fogging oil) only down there

  7. #7
    dghal's Avatar
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    Pull a hose to the top of the head and use a funnel in the hose to run anti freeze into the block.

    I know there could be a better way,, I have never had to antifreeze one down here in South Texas

  8. #8
    Would i be safe to just run the engine without a hose (for a second or two) to push all the old water out and leave like that?

    I would like to learn more about how to get anti-freeze in the block though. You say put a funnel to the head. You mean take the head off and pour antifreeze down the sides into the block area?

  9. #9
    dghal's Avatar
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    don't think you will get all the water out just running it,, if you pull the hose off the head get a short length of hose to go from head to funnel and pour the RV antifreeze in that way

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