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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Thinking about buying a 2000 gp1200r

    I'm at my mom's in Pa. and a local guy has a 2000 gp1200r for sale in the local paper Want's to get rid of it before winter. I havent seen it yet he says it runs good. I've only had 2 cyl non powervalve Yamis what should I look for? He wants $1500 for it.


  2. #2
    where in pa is it??

  3. #3
    Its better to burn out than fade away christian79's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
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    Marysville Ohio
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    If it runs and is not beat to hell then that is a great deal. Be sure to ride it though. Running on the trailer does not mean a thing.

  4. #4
    improvised tmg97gp's Avatar
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    Jul 2008
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    Midlothian Virginia USA ~ On the James River~
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    Thumbs up

    Go get it, I paid $2,100 for my 2000GPR with 117 hours on it last Nov.

  5. #5
    TX21's Avatar
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    May 2007
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    Sounds to cheap for nothing to be wrong with it. If it runs good in the water snatch it! They are super easy to work on or mod.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Fla
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    I had a 650 WR111 for 10years Got it as a basket case in pieces,rebuilt it myself and never had a problem. I'm in the process of rebuildinging a xl 700 but I realy like the looks of the GPR I'm sort of scared of the 3 cyl motor I keep reading all these posts about cooked cyls, powervalvefailures etc. . Are these powervalve motors that tempermental if you do the mods? W.E. clips, linkage connectors, axe the oil sys,carb maintance. Anything else?,

  7. #7
    Waveruiner pauladave's Avatar
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    Mar 2007
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    Clayton le Woods, North West England,UK.
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    409
    Just my take on things. I've run a 1200pv for 3 years now with no problems other than carbs being damaged by previous owners lack of care, and the driveshaft splines stripping, partly due to same cause! Many of the reliability issues I read about seem to come from owner neglect or lack of knowledge of basic maintainance required with a high performance 2 stroke! Other issues are often related to modding the motor to produce more power than it was designed to give, and related carb jetting issues. This will often create problems if not done with a great degree of skill (which you will find many of the guys on here have, so always ask questions before doing anything you're not sure of). Carbs are the biggest cause of most problems, but that's always the case with any 2 stroke. Waveater clips and pump seal kit are very important. I don't hold with the pre-mix idea, but it's your choice. I just make sure the oil lines are in top condition, and held on by Oetiker clips. I've run oil-injected outboards since 1984, and never had an issue with them, and these triple pot motors are no different to the big Mercury's I've owned. Hope this is of interest

  8. #8
    WATER WOODY's Avatar
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    Minden, Nevada, United States
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    Welcome rsmith to GH.

    ...ask to check compression
    ...look under the ski and all over for repairs it might of had
    ...test ride it if possible

    At that price, i would snag it. I would water test it for sure. There is TONS of info on the GPR if you use the search button. If you have any questions at all, your welcome to call me or ask several other tuners on this site. 775-315-0222 Kevin

    Good luck on the ski! They are alot of fun!

  9. #9
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    As Woody mentioned.... ^

    Welcome to the forum rsmith!



    I would:
    Do a compression check, numbers should be in the 115-125 range
    Make sure the Powervalve servo motor cycles. When you crank it, shut it off and the powervalve motor will cycle shortly open/close.
    Look in the hull for any oil, with a 9 year old ski, the oil lines can/may pop off and cause a lubrication seizure.
    Ask if the Catalytic Converter (Cat Con) has been replaced with a D-Plate; if not, I would suggest this.
    Look to see if the OEM intake grate is still there. An aftermarket grate needs to be installed.
    Take it for a water test, ride it. It should run roughly 62-65mph on GPS @ roughly 6900 rpms in stock form.
    Inspect it for any hull damage or repair
    Have the carbs been rebuilt?
    Make sure all the functions work on the display.
    Check the steering for any rough spots.
    Check the trim function for any rough spots
    Crawl under the ski and inspect for any cracks in the pump tunnel area.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Fla
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    71
    I keep reading about the insert problems. I asume this is the captive nuts that are imbedded in the hull that hold the grate pump rideplate etc. What are the fixes for these if they spinn or pull out? Do you thru bolt them or put bacing plates in?

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