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  1. #1

    durrable engine paint

    looking for opinions on durrable engine paint for high salanity conditions. Thinking on por-15 for my 720.
    also looking for something to re finish my factory pipe chamber , and head pipe. the factory coating has flaked off from corrosion.

    I flush my ski with fresh water and douse the engine and inside the ski then use 6-56 to keep corrosion down, but the high salinity has taken its toll on the engine. Wanting to media blast everything and start fresh and paint with a durrable coating.

  2. #2
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Beaumont, Texas
    for the heat i would recommend brand: rustoleum high heat, i bought some black paint and painted my coffman, has not came off, tip, paint it and let it dry in the hot sun, for a whole day, i dried mine 2 days in the hot sun 96F

  3. #3
    PEST!'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Rockledge Florida
    I tried something once and it worked well but takes lots of work to start. I bead blasted the complete engine and removed all paint then would spray it down with water and then WD40 after every ride. A year later it looked like the day I finished it except the underside because I couldn't get to it to spray. If I had used Boshield when I put the engine in I bet it would have looked fine

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    i use lawson cast iron finish grey. painted my pipe and a friends entire 657 and still looks like i just sprayed it. I don't know where you can buy it, i get it from work, but you can google it. its whats used when they rebuild alternators,startes etc, anything thats metal under your cars/trucks hood.

  5. #5
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Aiken, SC
    I have had good results with the Duplicolor engine paints.

  6. #6
    Rebcammaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Brick, NJ
    I just re-did my gtx 787 and glassbeaded everything and started from scratch. I had good luck before with the duplicolor engine enamel with ceramic, but not on this project. After I thoroughly preped, primed, and painted everything.... the littelest freakin touch would make the paint chip! So back to the paint store and I got Duplicolor acrilic paint and with prep and primer it works good so far. But never ceramic paint again, what crap!

  7. #7
    dghal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    League City Texas
    Quote Originally Posted by ultramaxracing05 View Post
    for the heat i would recommend brand: rustoleum high heat, i bought some black paint and painted my coffman, has not came off, tip, paint it and let it dry in the hot sun, for a whole day, i dried mine 2 days in the hot sun 96F

    I used that as well in silver and the motor looks great still and it has been a year

  8. #8
    ou812's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Quote Originally Posted by KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX View Post
    I have had good results with the Duplicolor engine paints.

    The trick to a durable finish is to bake it at 250* for 2-3 hrs...

    I did my spec2 pipe, manifold, head & jugs this way. If you let it dry in the sun for a few days it's still soft & will get beat up when you go installing everything.

  9. #9
    thanks, i have used ppg enamel on classic restorations on the engines and it held up good, but not subject to salt water. i have the option to use por-15.
    it is the paint john deere and caterpillar uses in their industrial machines.
    I will be bead blasting everything. Certain items may be irridite finished or even anodised. then painted over. At our shop when we do pipe repair we use duplicolor engine enamel and it holds up. After seing ski's that come in with sbt motors the paint is all bubbled up and flaking from corrosion and discolored from the heat. I do not want this on my own personal ski.

  10. #10
    retro jet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    New England
    I'll be painting my engine soon too, but I don't know what paint I will use.

    I plan to use a chromate conversion coating on the bare aluminum, similar to iridite, I'm not sure what the difference is. I use some old Dupont 225S and 226S as a system, which is phosphoric acid wash and a chromate salt solution. Industrial paint job shops do this in tanks, but I have always just wiped on/ off. Google Alodine, Dupont 225s/ 226s or MIL-DTL-5541 , you can download MIL-DTL-5541 at

    Anodize is thicker and more robust, but I don't know if it is used as prep for painting.

    I would worry more about prep and bond srength rather than paint thinkness. I will try to post a pic of my powdercoated ride plate and rattlecan'd intake grate 10 years after install. The powdercoat has completely failed, and the quick spray can job over chromate conversion is like new. A thick film is not the answer.

    File sharp edges so they are rounded because paint is thin at sharp edges.

    I am not sure if I will paint the assembled engine or unassembled parts. I like the look of unpainted hardware, but sealing seams with paint is should prevent corrosion from starting.

    POR-15 as in Paint Over Rust, isn't that for steel? Good reputation, but I don't think it is meant for aluminum.

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