10-07-2009, 07:09 AM #1
Is it ok to store a ski outside in sub zero temps?
I have completely winterized my 96 SL700, got all water out, fogged engine, etc. The building I had originally planned on storing the ski in was full. So now Im forced to store this thing outside during an Ohio winter. It is not uncommon for the temps to dip below zero. Is this ok? Do I need to do anything special asside from normal winterazation?
10-07-2009, 08:15 AM #2
MIne has been in mich since 95. I use stabill,blow out water, take out battery, empty fuel filter/water seperator, run for 20 secs till it dies then flog at last second. Drain tank or keep full. Use sta-bil for the gas. leave gas cap slightly open. Spray engine compartment with WD-40. Cover on, Shrinwrap over it all. Oh! drain plug and tip ski back and drain any water from hull.
Some take the plugs out and spray flogging oil down the clyinders. I dont. The flogging at the end did that for me already. If you leave it full of gas, use the stabill and then run the ski a little to get the stabill in the carbs.! or else you'll have bad gas in the carbs in the spring.
10-07-2009, 08:48 AM #3
as long as you got the water out of engine , and exhaust , it is fine . we get -40 up here in canada , and mine sit outside all winter !! store nose up if you can !!!
bow snipper ......what is flogging ??? and how do you do it at last second ???
10-07-2009, 09:10 AM #4
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
Low temperatures are no problem, as long as you have the water out of the system. Once any remaining water freezes into ice without damaging anything, even lower temperatures don't cause a problem.
Do a search for winterize, or winterizing. Lot of good info available around here.
How did you get all the water out?
Other than water/ice precautions, make sure the engine compartment is aired out and dry. I use compressed air to blow any small water pools towards the rear, and a few old towels to mop up any remainder, especially under the engine.
If you can store it with the seat cracked open to allow ventilation, without rain or snow blowing inside, that can help.
Just to cover the bases for any other owner's who may read this;
Stabilize the fuel (many folks use the Sta-Bil products, I use the ethanol compatible Marine version).
Fill the fuel tank (but do not over-fill) with premium gasoline, preferably with no ethanol in the blend. Seal the gas cap snug - there is a separate air vent system for the tank.
Fill the 2-stroke oil tank as well. Full tanks attract less water condensation during warm-cold temperature cycles.
Running the engine without water, and firmly revving it in very short bursts will blow most of the excess water out of the water box, especially if the nose of the trailer is tipped up as high as possible while you are doing this. Don't run the engine for more than about 20 seconds at a time without water
Spray fogging oil into the engine air intakes to protect the internal steel bearings, piston rings, and the cylinder walls. Spraying fogging oil into the spark plug holes, then hand turning the engine (or very short touches of the start button), will help spread the fogging oil around.
Hand tighten the spark plugs, and leave the plug wires off. That will remind you in the spring that the engine has been fogged
Take the battery out, and store it in a cool (but above freezing) dry place. Connect a battery maintainer (such as Battery Tender, or Battery Minder) for the winter, to keep the battery charged but not over charged.
10-07-2009, 09:10 AM #5
10-07-2009, 09:36 AM #6
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Elephant Butte New Mexico
don't suggest leaving the cap loose
-1 on leaving the gas cap adjar, last thing you want in any tank is air exchange. When posible ( and not for any FI ski), I tend to drain tanks to the bone after running a little stabiler laced gas thru the fuel system. Really fresh gas in spring assures a easy startup.
10-07-2009, 10:01 AM #7
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
With a completely drained fuel tank, you can remove the gas cap come spring, and allow any water condensation in the tank to evaporate before you add any fuel.
I also agree that using fresh fuel in the spring is the best method, if you can get the tank empty and dry before storage.
If you suspect there is any water or any other contaminants (gunk, dirt) in the bottom of the fuel tank, then draining and cleaning the tank before storage is very appropriate.
When draining the tank is not practical, store it with a full tank of non-ethanol, premium 91+ octane pump fuel (not race gasoline).
The smaller the remaining air space inside the tank, the less water condensation can occur. Don't over fill the tank, as you do need some air space, otherwise you risk fuel overflow. Same with the oil tank, leave a little room for expansion
Gasoline will lose a little octane during storage, which is why the higher octane of premium fuel will ensure you still have sufficient octane left to avoid engine damage when you burn through that tank next spring.
The fuel stabilizer will reduce the rate at which the gasoline degrades, so the fuel will still be good come spring.
Leaving the gas cap ajar allows air to move in/out of the tank to equalize pressure changes, but that air will carry moisture with it - it is better to just let the normal vent system allow the air in/out as necessary.
For small pressure changes, the tank vent system will not vent at all, thereby reducing the amount of moisture that gets carried into the tank with the air flow.
The tank vents are hooded and sheltered (the air inlet vent is inside the hull), while a loosened gas cap may be more exposed to rain or snow blowing in.
10-07-2009, 11:25 AM #8
Flogging an engine is just spraying a liquid oil into the carbs as its running. This sucks in the oil and spreads it everywhere untill the engine quits. then you know it's all good in there. Just get her running for a few seconds and then start spraying the fogging oil in until it stops. start to finish should be like 10 seconds. then as others suggest, spray in the sparkplug holes and such.. A loose cap wont hurt if it's almost full.But I guess it has a vent there on the tank so no biggie. Delete that part.
See ya in the spring!
10-07-2009, 06:23 PM #9
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Pittsfield, MA
10-08-2009, 02:07 PM #10
Heck ,8 years ago when I bought mine, I just threw the cover over it ,left the gas in at whatever level it was at and didnt drain anything and it ran fine the next year! lol gas doent really go bad that fast. it would take a couple years to get all varnished in there. I took the drain plug out and ran it for a couple seconds to get the water out of the exhaust. which there was very little of it, flogged it for a couple seconds and was just fine. snow drift over it! lol See, so even next to nothing works! lol im proof! with ethanol in it no less.
Although after the years gone by, I have been much wiser about things. I was just saying.
Ps. the cap was ON the ski, just cracked it open a little.
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