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Thread: 96 spx vts

  1. #1
    slipnot's Avatar
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    96 spx vts

    How do you seal the VTS "shaft"so that water does not get into the housing and motor area. I have a new rubber boot but it doesn't look like it will "hold its ground". Where should I put sealant without mucking up the VTS movement? When you re-install a new motor is there a position that you are supposed to put the worm gear and shaft so that you don't have "over run" problems? I had put the new boot on with a new motor) but when I started blowing 5A fuses (see my other post) I disconnected all VTS stuff. So now I have a used housing because the old housing was shorting...hope you can follow all this. In a nut shell I had ever so slight water in the old VTS housing that was with the new boot that was tie wrapped on as opposed to clamped.
    Thanks.


  2. #2
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    It does not matter where the block is when you install the motor. The limit switches in the box prevent an overrun.

    To set one I get it hooked up and run it all the way up. I then adjust the end rod to put the nozzel where I want it in that position (I give it a couple mm of clearance as I like a lot of UP for wake jumping ). Some like to set it for the neutral position they want but I do not like to depend on the guage being consistant. I know that all the way up or down is just that, because of the switches.

    As for the boot, well, I have never wanted to glue it on and truth be told, the leaks always seem to be from where the boot breaks, not under the clamps.

    I do like to put Hylomar on the gasket that goes between the nut and the hull.

    Make sure and get new nylon clamps (never use metal clamps). These are sufficient to hold the boot and seal it. I do like to put grease on the shaft under the boot and a good amount inside the box around the sliding block. This is under the theory that water would have to get by the grease too (which it probably would, but I do it anyway).

  3. #3
    95spi w\factory pipe/96xp Diggler's Avatar
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    VTS

    ok so the relays or electronics or "moduale" do prevent over loading it with voltage when it is to the max up or to the max down. "like it knows" even if you are still holding the button.

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    slipnot's Avatar
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    I am NOT trying to give lame information but this is what I heard:

    1). There are magnets in the rod that cause the "limits" to be observed.

    I had a defective housing (after replacing the motor) and it allowed the "overrun" and I blew another 7.5A. Initially is was caused by massive amounts of water in the VTS housing itself. The VTS wasn't working when I bought it so I thought I would try and get it going. So replaced the motor blew fuses because of the housing. Replaced the housing, now I have to insure no more water in the VTS housing at all.

  5. #5
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slipnot View Post
    I am NOT trying to give lame information but this is what I heard:

    1). There are magnets in the rod that cause the "limits" to be observed.

    I had a defective housing (after replacing the motor) and it allowed the "overrun" and I blew another 7.5A. Initially is was caused by massive amounts of water in the VTS housing itself. The VTS wasn't working when I bought it so I thought I would try and get it going. So replaced the motor blew fuses because of the housing. Replaced the housing, now I have to insure no more water in the VTS housing at all.
    Correct to both of you. You can hold that button like it was one of Megan Fox's nipples and that box will not go past the full up/down limit. The limit switch shuts of the power to the motor when it is tripped. In fact, this is one of the ways they fail. If one of the LSs is bad it will go in one direction but not the other. You can manually turn it back (say down) and it will go up but when you try to power down it will not because it "thinks" it is down already (and of course, it can not move up either).

    The box overran because it was bad.

    A good box will not overrun. If it does, it is bad (I really loved my logic classes ).

    If you look at the block that rides the big plastic screw you will see a little magnet on it. That is read by a sensor in the box. This also reports to the gauge but the gauges are not all that well calibrated (at least, none of the ones I have had are-the MFG on our '00 RX is probably the best I have seen).

    So, get new clamps to go with that boot and put a little grease on the seal for the box lid (this helps the lid slide on) and be careful not to get a lid tab under the seal (easier to do than you might think). You may want to try my (I say my, I think I swiped it from someone on here) trick greasing down the inside of the box (and boot a little-but I do not pack it lest it try to pressurize).

  6. #6
    slipnot's Avatar
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    Krunch, look at this reference:

    http://216.37.204.203/Seadoo_OEM/Sea...e=13&A=34&B=17

    Note that it shows a sleeve that is "obsolete" I didn't put one in because I didn't take one off. By obsolete does that mean the newer housing supersedes the need for the sleeve? I know that it was leaking around the boot up the sliding control and into the VTS box....not alot, but too much. I apologize for being such a neophyte, I just don't want to do it wrong, I paid decent $$$ for a motor, housing, etc. and I have never riding on a ski with VTS!!! Thanks.

  7. #7
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    What item number are you looking at? I do not see a sleeve.

    Do you by chance mean the spacer (number 19)?

    Just compare the two boxes. I doubt you need it. I put a brand new box on my '95 XP many moons ago. It did not have the spacer and went right on no problem.

    The last three plug box I had (the box that fits X-4s) did not have one on it either.

  8. #8
    95spi w\factory pipe/96xp Diggler's Avatar
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    96 vts

    since the mpem trouble I had and replaced in my 96 xp which runs ok now, I just put a manuale trim knob on it for now. Im sure it wasnt the vts anyways. prolly was the tiny metal shavings in the stator box or water.

  9. #9
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    troubleshooting article for share


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