Thread: Winterizing Ultra LX
10-12-2009, 10:27 AM #1
Winterizing Ultra LX
I searched and all the threads regarding winterizing were from a couple years back so I wanted to see if anything has changed and if someone could provide me the steps I need to take to winterize my ski. I donít want to go to the dealer because Iím sure they are going to want a crazy amount and I am sure I can do it my self.
10-12-2009, 04:06 PM #2
Other than usual fogging, one thing you must do is to drain out the stagnant cooling water inside the 4-1 collector exhaust pipe's cooling jacket by removing the elbow fitting on the bottom. Manual shows how. This will save you $350+ if you would be keeping the ski at or below freezing temp.
10-12-2009, 07:54 PM #3
Is this the same thing 0n the 15F does it has this elbow ?, i have the manual shop , and they tell much about winterizing in cold (frosting) areas.
I put prestone by the garden hose acces, while running the engine and after i remove the exhaust hose and put about 1 cup of prestone directly in the muffler.
Do you think this should be fine ?
10-13-2009, 10:04 AM #4
10-14-2009, 12:24 AM #5
Wait a minute.....
There are people that don't ride thier skis in the winter??
Chris288 made a good list..
I would add/change a couple things though...
Fill the tank up with fuel
Fog before the SC to lube it up
Thats if its in the garage not getting frozen...otherwise do what meangreen said.
10-14-2009, 09:26 AM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
Here is what i do and never had a problem. I have a 2008 15f
1. Stabil in gas and run threw for 4-5 min.
2. Get a 1ft. hose and put on garden house input, use funnel and pour the WHOLE 1 gallon of antifreeze threw it, i use RV formula b/c no harmful chemicals,
3. Take off little compartment box underneath handlebars to get to the ignition connections, There are 2 plugs underneath that are labeled 1-4 , and 2-3, a little hard too see, they go to the coil pack, disconnect both for next step.
4. Take out 1 plug at a time and reinsert after each is done, just pull out each plug and spray fogging oil and then bump the start button, the reinsert, repeat for all of them.
5. Plug both connections back into there respected plug that are underneath the compartment box. Be careful to match the numbers back up.
6. Disconnect battery and put in basement hooked up to trickle charger. I use battery tender.
7. Spray down engine w/ some sort of lubrication. I use Kawasaki watercraft spray lube.
8. Prop open seat alittle and put cover on. Make sure jetski is cleaned and waxed as we'll, and dry inside. maybe put trailer on jack stands if you wanted too
Any other question's just ask.
10-14-2009, 10:58 AM #7
10-14-2009, 12:15 PM #8
> Exhaust collector pipe is the only part that is known to crack if not drained of water from the cooling jacket.
> Not necessary to put prestone into the muffler which is not known to freeze & crack. Kawi manual doesn't say anything about it either.
Another good idea is to run the engine for 10-15 seconds (w/o water) a couple of times a month when not in use if possible.
10-14-2009, 12:34 PM #9
where and how do you drain the exhaust collector pipe.?
I have my ski done as per the post above except for that collector, been done for 3 weeks. I had started the ski up and would run for a few seconds blipping the throttle to purge all water, did this maybe 5-6 times for only a few seconds each instance until no more water came out. I was told that was all I would need. Here in this part of SC it gets cold but does not stay below freezing for long periods. thanks for any help
10-14-2009, 01:53 PM #10
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