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Thread: polaris sl 750

  1. #1

    polaris sl 750

    I am installing heads on my 750 and want to know how they sit on the jug.
    The ( UP ) symbel bottom left and the shark fin pointing to the water manifolds outlet?
    Also, Should there be a fuel line restrictor in the return fuel line?
    I punched this .020 over and want to know what the cc's are now up from the 750
    thanks for the help.
    steve


  2. #2
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dewzer2 View Post
    I am installing heads on my 750 and want to know how they sit on the jug.
    The ( UP ) symbel bottom left and the shark fin pointing to the water manifolds outlet? yes
    Also, Should there be a fuel line restrictor in the return fuel line? what yr 750?
    I punched this .020 over and want to know what the cc's are now up from the 750. best I can tell is you are up from 744.458 to 755.346 ccs
    thanks for the help.
    steve
    Welcome to the Hulk!

  3. #3
    Thank you for the infromation. This is a 1995 year sl750.
    I see I wrote head and I ment head gaskets to be put on in this mannor with the ( UP ) symbol at bottom left and the fin to the manifold outlet . sorry bout that, rushin off to work.
    I believe I have the torque specs correct of 18-22 ft.lbs. for the heads and the same for the exhaust.
    I dont have the water manifold's torque specs or the mufflers.
    I am courious about the fuel line restrictor in the return line as I have read posts about a lack of fuel to the last carb in order of fuel delivery.
    I also would like to know how to prime the oil pump. Hopefully an easy move.
    I understand NGK is the plug to use but there were autolite#63's in it. What NGK # would be recomended.
    I cant thank you enough for the input, This has been a rather fun task so far and is coming allong nicley.
    Reguards, steve

  4. #4
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dewzer2 View Post
    Thank you for the infromation. This is a 1995 year sl750.
    I see I wrote head and I ment head gaskets to be put on in this mannor with the ( UP ) symbol at bottom left and the fin to the manifold outlet . sorry bout that, rushin off to work.
    I believe I have the torque specs correct of 18-22 ft.lbs. for the heads=18#s and the same for the exhaust. exhaust mani to cylinders=16#s pipe to manifold 45#s. Water outlet manifold to heads=78 inch #s
    I dont have the water manifold's torque specs or the mufflers.
    I am courious about the fuel line restrictor in the return line as I have read posts about a lack of fuel to the last carb in order of fuel delivery. The restrictor (.4mm) should be about an inch away from the carb. in the return line.
    I also would like to know how to prime the oil pump. Hopefully an easy move. There is a bleed screw (item#16) you remove to purge air in the line from the tank to the pump. See diagram below. You still need to bleed from the pump to the ports in the flame arrestor base. I used a drill on the end of the pump gear running ccw to pump the oil up the lines while disconnected from the ports. Some disconnect the pumps linkage so it will default to full flow while running a premix oil/fuel till they are sure the oil lines have been purged. 50:1 and take it easy till you are sure the oil is flowing into the carbs.
    I understand NGK is the plug to use but there were autolite#63's in it. What NGK # would be recomended. NGK BPR8ES is most recommended.
    I cant thank you enough for the input, This has been a rather fun task so far and is coming allong nicley.
    Reguards, steve

  5. #5
    Ok, I have everything all set to fire this bad boy up.
    One last ?
    The 50:1 fuel mix?
    Should I mix a full tank at this ratio and run the engine along with the oil injectors or should I run just a small ammount, say a gallon or so for break in then use regular gas and depend on the injectors?
    Just want to make sure everything is right.
    thanks, steve

  6. #6
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Were you able to purge the line from the tank to the pump? Were you able to purge the lines from the pump to the ports with the drill method?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dewzer2 View Post
    ... The 50:1 fuel mix?

    Should I mix a full tank at this ratio and run the engine along with the oil injectors or should I run just a small amount, say a gallon or so for break in then use regular gas and depend on the injectors?...
    Are you breaking in a new top end/rings/pistons?

    You want more than a couple of gallons, as you don't want the fuel to slosh away from the pickup in the tank, and allow air into the fuel lines.

    A third or half tank should be plenty of pre-mix, unless you are doing a top end break-in. Just check the oil lines for bubbles, and make sure those bubbles are moving along nicely and all gone before you run straight gas.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by starflight View Post
    Were you able to purge the line from the tank to the pump? Were you able to purge the lines from the pump to the ports with the drill method?
    Yes I was able to follow your advice and purge oil from both sections, tank to pump and pump to ports.
    Worked out very nicley.
    To answer the other posts ? Yes this is a new top end rebuild punched .020

  9. #9
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    The 50:1 in addition to the oil pump will get you close to the 32:1 recommended for break in. Mix a full tank.
    Here is a link I searched for break-in, and found K447 had posted the link.

    http://www.angelfire.com/zine2/boost...ur-PWC%21.html

  10. #10
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    I've used # 63 autolites in my unmodified 94 sl 750 and it ran great with them. 1.79 each instead of 4-something with the NGKs'. They are the equivalent to the NGK BRP8ES's.
    They burned a nice choclate brown,the correct color!. .028" gap also.

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