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Thread: Engine Light On

  1. #1

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    Engine Light On

    I have added 68/140, Rude RRFPR and Innovate LC1 w/blue LED. I have ported the throttle body, removed intake and exhaust to drill and tap each. My RRFPR is set on 60 lbs it starts fine with some new compressor wine . It revs quick sounds ok. My AFR's are all over the place mostly around 11.8- 12.5 but so hard to read because it moves so much with the same thing when I rev it. AFR reads 21.8 before start up. I have started it three times and the red engine light stays on each time. It does not show an error code.

    I will go over it again and disconnect/reconnect electrical plugs.

    Anyone got an idea or recommendations?
    Do AFR's settle down when at a steady speed while running?

    Ken


  2. #2

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    I disconnected the battery when I installed the LC1 could that have done it?

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    richrxp's Avatar
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    Maybe it doesn't matter ,but did you reset your tps after modding the throttle body,this could affect performance or engine management.

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    I set the RRFPR at 60and after strarting it up the intake vacuum pulls it down to about 55. It idles at about about 12 lbs vacuum and AFR-13.4 but if I remove the vac hose from the RRFPR it goes to about 12.4. I ran the RRFPR to about 70 and the AFR was 11.8 but it bounced around alot. I still can't find out why I have a red engine light. I checked engine schematics and there is not a signal from the internal FPR so it does not see or adjust fuel pressure. It also gets absolute pressure form the intake but no where does it state it makes adjustments for boost. All my electrical plugs are connected.

    I see that I will probably need larger injectors but did not know how it would react to boost with the stock 48 injectors as others are running 50's with similar setups. I still have not seen boost.

    Why does it see so much vacuum in the intake with the SC running?

    At what RPM will it see boost a wicked it up to about 4-5 g and did not get it off vacuum.

    Damn SC has my ears ringing in that short time I ran it. 6 times in all after doing different things to try and get rid of the red light.


    Dang I'm frustrated.

  5. #5
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    Boost should kick in around 5500 to 6200 rpm depending on charger.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by richrxp View Post
    Maybe it doesn't matter ,but did you reset your tps after modding the throttle body,this could affect performance or engine management.
    It's the same throttle body with the same amount of opening at idle. I only tapered the bore up to the butterfly and removed some restriction off the butterfly at throttle opening.

    If I replaced the TB it has to be reset so it will be recognized.

  7. #7

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    Anyone else get a red engine light after working on their Seadoo?

  8. #8
    richrxp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken IS255 View Post
    It's the same throttle body with the same amount of opening at idle. I only tapered the bore up to the butterfly and removed some restriction off the butterfly at throttle opening.

    If I replaced the TB it has to be reset so it will be recognized.
    I know this,but i read posts who had to be resetted anyway without change of the throttlebody.
    But i can't imagine how this would lead to a red light.

    Afr ratio seems to be ok,so any suggestions are welcome it beats me.

  9. #9
    speedskixp's Avatar
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    I dont know why your engine light is on ( probably a loose plug) but you want it to idle in the mid 13s after warmed up. However, the only thing you should be using the rrfpr to adjust is wot while on the water and under load. Your idle and mid will land where they fall. As far as the fluctuating A/F at idle, It may be that its not fully warmed up and possibly that your IAC is trying to figure out what to do with the new TB mod or possibly whatever may be unplugged I would not sweat this yet. You need to double check everything to try and figure out the engine light if that does'nt work it needs to be hooked up to BUDS. After you figure that out take it to the water for testing.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedskixp View Post
    I dont know why your engine light is on ( probably a loose plug) but you want it to idle in the mid 13s after warmed up. However, the only thing you should be using the rrfpr to adjust is wot while on the water and under load. Your idle and mid will land where they fall. As far as the fluctuating A/F at idle, It may be that its not fully warmed up and possibly that your IAC is trying to figure out what to do with the new TB mod or possibly whatever may be unplugged I would not sweat this yet. You need to double check everything to try and figure out the engine light if that does'nt work it needs to be hooked up to BUDS. After you figure that out take it to the water for testing.

    Thanks, I'm going to put it up and start fresh Sunday. I hope it's something stupid that was over looked. In the back of my mind I keep thinking there was an extra ground wire that went under one of the bolts but i could not find it by looking on the schematics or the iS. I disconnected the battery one more time just for grins but no help there either. What ever it is it will not stop it from running or revving up.

    Later, Ken

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