08-23-2006, 07:45 AM #1
Project: Make it not quite so hot.
Cause I really want it to stop being hot....
DAMNIT ok, I'll quit that now
I'm going to cap my inlet and outlet cooling ports and use the 1/4 hose fitting with my leak down tester fitting I have to pressure test the system real quick before Al sends me the manifold and pipe. This should be taken care of by today or tomorrow Al. How much air should I pump into it and what is an acceptable drop?
Swap domes with the replacements I was sent by SBT sometime this week, probably tomorrow. I do not think this will fix the overheat.
I'm hoping after all this I do find a big leak in the cooling system.
08-23-2006, 10:08 AM #2
I suggest 10 PSI, and it should not drop more than 1 lb in approx 10 minutes.. Be sure to test everywhere for leaks, including the gauge ...
08-23-2006, 10:28 AM #3
I love your picture Javier. Funny stuff right there.
08-23-2006, 10:32 AM #4Originally Posted by hydrotoys
08-23-2006, 10:37 AM #5
08-23-2006, 11:09 AM #6
I know we already discussed this, but I think when the time comes you should try this as well. I know it can't hurt to try it. You'll be killing two birds with one stone so-to-speak. Adding the extra line from the incoming, and the cooling mod.
And don't forget that traditionally, when building the Polaris back up, one would put the jugs on but leave them loose. Then bolt the exhaust manifold up for alignment, then tighten the jugs down. (polaris doesn't use the dowel pin method) SBT ships just the block, right? What if your manifold is off just a little? (not PERFECTLY flat) When everything gets good and hot, you could possibly develope a small leak. Total longshot, but I've see it happen.
With the triples, it don't matter, but with the single pipe, a few degrees here or there, and no amount of torqueing on it is going to make it work. Like I said, just a total longshot.
Anyhow, the cooling rail is yours, not theirs. I think you should do that cooling mod to it AND the tee in the incoming water feed line.
08-24-2006, 12:56 PM #7
08-24-2006, 05:06 PM #8
no kidding. Obviously the 1050/1200 way will provide much more cooling water to all the right places. It only makes sense!
08-26-2006, 11:52 AM #9
HOLY CRAP I THINK THE PROBLEM IS FOUND
I'm 99.999999% sure the problem is a leak in the cooling system, internal, maybe a crack in the pipe or the manifold as previously suggested.
Here was my test:
Cap the water outlet manifold, cap the water inlet.
Take the small line that goes to the exhaust manifold and put a T in there with a gauge and a air fill fitting.
Used my compressor and pumped up to about 30 lbs... IMMEDIATE drop in pressure, didn't hold a thing.
I filled it a few times, sprayed any gasketed water passages with soapy water, found nothing leaking from those. The air sounded like it was rumbling in the exhaust system.... sure enough, I filled it again, hopped to the back of the ski and felt air coming out of the exhaust dump!!
So the only thing that would kill this theory is the stinger pipe cooling.... does that small stinger line only recycle itself into the cooling system? Or would it mix with exhaust at some point and be where my air is leaking into the exhaust system?
08-26-2006, 11:59 AM #10
The stinger fitting feed line (on top) dumps water in at the bottom and into the actual exhaust stream. That is why you felt it coming out the back of the boat. That is why you saw pressure drop. Sorry.
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