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  1. #1
    Vern's Avatar
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    Stuck/failed oil pressure regulator symptoms?

    I just did a search and read all the posts I could find on this, which was interesting. I had let my motor set for about six months last winter without turning it over or firing it; normally I fire it up every couple weeks. When I took it out finally, I had oil issues all summer ... lots of oil in the catch can and supercharger and into the hull, OIL warnings, etc. I changed oil, changed sensors, etc, etc, but never seemed to fix it totally.

    I noticed often that I would have OIL warnings when I first ran it ... had to let it warm up quite a bit before I could escape with no warning. As I hit 5000 rpm it would show OIL. I would idle for a couple minutes, pull the DESS key, restart and it would run fine the rest of the day, altho it spit oil all summer. Compression is normal, and there is no oil burning. I have never touched the oil pressure regulator, so it is not crushed, but the sleeve type regulators CAN get sticky.

    I wonder now if my oil pressure regulator is stuck open or stuck closed? If it is stuck closed, would that result in too HIGH of oil pressure, pushing oil out anywhere it can? I was wondering since at least five other people have had the same symptoms and I now am suspecting a stuck oil pressure regulator rather than a sensor issue possibly .... anybody have a stuck oil pressure regulator? What symptoms did the engine have?


  2. #2
    "Hustler" Inkaddict's Avatar
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    I had rebuilt a motor where the previous owner had tightened it all the way down. I didnt know to check it Motor ran for 4 miutes perfect.. 7500 rpms oil light flashes.. 3 minutes idling back to the dock... Wiped out all the bearings, the crank and 1 rod.... For the record... even after removing the spring and cup... The piston was frozen into the cage and it took a bit of convincing to pull it out...

  3. #3
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    Interesting Vern. ON my rebuild i am replacing all the parts to the regulator except the the plug. I dont remember exactly but I think is like 60 to 70 bucks to replace valve sleeve, piston valve, o ring, and 2 compression springs.

    I was told it was good to replace all those parts on a ski with some hours when doing rebuild.

    Dosnt pertain to this topic but i am replacing all inner guts and covers on the oil pickups.

    You may be on to something.

  4. #4
    Vern's Avatar
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    Interesting, I did not realize this could cause engine failure ... all the manual says is "The oil pressure regulator system opens when the oil pressure exceeds 58 psi." So if I understand the function correctly, the regulator is closed, allowing oil pressure to come up until it hits 58 psi when it opens, allowing some oil to bypass the oil pump, keeping pressure from going so high it blows seals or causes other damage from TOO MUCH oil pressure. But maybe if the regulator never opens, it pumps all the oil into the upper end and the bottom end/bearings don't get enough lubrication?? Just wondering, I don't know if this is correct ...

  5. #5
    Hey, I've got an idea. Why don't you stick an oil pressure gage on the engine. It's better than guessing. If the requlator is stuck and won't bypass the pressure will rise quickly with rpm and pass the specified maximum pressure- by a big amount.

    If the regulator was stuck in full bypass then at low rpm there would be very low pressure and flow through the main oil gallery where the switch is located (as the oil pump displacement varies with rpm it will still easily bleed off even at 3 grand-they spec [email protected] #K at operating temps)

    1503 4-TEC NATURALLY ASPIRATED ENGINE
    ENGINE RPM PRESSURE kPa (PSI)

    Idle (cold) 296 - 400 (43 - 58 ) for a short time

    Idle (at 80°C (176°F) Min. 138 (20)

    4000 - 7500 172 - 241 (25 - 35)


    ALL 1503 4-TEC SUPERCHARGED ENGINES
    Idle (cold) 400 - 497 (58 - 72) for a very short time

    Idle (at 80°C (176°F) Min. 138 (20)

    4000 - 7500 172 - 241 (58 - 72)

    Test at the Cylinder Head Location
    Remove plug located on cylinder head and install
    gauge

    RT
    Last edited by rotortiller; 10-22-2009 at 02:21 PM. Reason: added specs

  6. #6
    Vern's Avatar
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    Yup, I will do that soon ... working on cam timing right now, having trouble getting that 100% right and engine is partially apart while I am doing that.

  7. #7
    vern, I had the same symptoms when someone installed my used reg in a new pto cover and overtightened and crushed the cage.
    the engine was went thru again and installed all new reg components, done!
    I do know that the oil pressure sensor needs to read a certain value at certain rpm`s. I think I was told the ecu looks for a low pressure number and a high pressure number... if memory serve me right...

    also remember that there is an oil restrictor in the deck for the rocker shaft assy.

  8. #8
    Vern's Avatar
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    PR, that is good to hear ... I was really puzzled what going on with the oil on my ski this past summer. So you had the exact same symptoms due to a stuck regulator too??

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    PR, that is good to hear ... I was really puzzled what going on with the oil on my ski this past summer. So you had the exact same symptoms due to a stuck regulator too??
    Bomb didn`t want to pay to have the engine removed the first time, so the dealer (under warranty) supposedly just cleaned the sieve screens, something with the rear pump, and reinstalled the used cage in the new pto housing. I immediately got the OIL message after warm up and stepping into the throttle, so I shut it down and put it back on the trailer.

    right before the engine went into limp mode, I drifted in shallow waters, not knowing it was that shallow, sucked up rocks and destroyed my brand new skat 16\21 in seconds... what a friggin nightmare.

    long story short, brought my ski up to shibby to have the warranty repair done right, they pulled the engine and made everything dandy again, and rode the next season...

    this constant back and forth with the first dealer was the straw that broke the pale riders back, and I switched up brands and went with yamaha and never looked back...


    and:::

    we found the front screen had dropped from position during assy in the first dealer attempt and crushed the screen between the pump assy...

    so a crushed cage, yes, the only thing with the screen was that it left a gapping hole for crap to pass thru.

    all of my sensors had been replaced. so if was indeed the used reg installed in a new cover and being overtightened.

    in a way it was a Godsend, bc the motor was pulled out somewhere else (F1) and fixed correctly...

  10. #10
    REID2168's Avatar
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    Vern IMO while u have the top off or apart in whatever fashion at the moment i would go ahead and take another hour or two and remove the motor from the hull and take the oil pressure regulator out and propely inspect it rather than wonder/guess and put it back together only to get the same results then have to take it apart again! good luck either way!

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