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  1. #1
    improvised tmg97gp's Avatar
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    Lightbulb OEM Reeds And there stops

    I did this on my GPR1200 when I put the motor together.
    Ok, On this motor I am running the OEM reeds and cages, what I did was bend the reed stops back just far enough so that I could still install the reed cage in the side of the motor. By doing this the reeds should open up further. I would think this would allow more air/fuel mixture in the motor. More RPM's? Has anybody ever done this?


  2. #2
    32 Valves To Love! Racecar_Dave's Avatar
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    ghetto-rigged, nice!

    on my first audi I somewhat disconnected (wedged a bolt in between the hose and housing) the hose from the maf to the turbo so the computer would see a low MAF reading and increase the boost. It worked.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Racecar_Dave View Post
    ghetto-rigged, nice!

    on my first audi I somewhat disconnected (wedged a bolt in between the hose and housing) the hose from the maf to the turbo so the computer would see a low MAF reading and increase the boost. It worked.
    we sorta did the same thing on a turbo bird, redirected the tube for the baro, slash cut and inserted in backwards to give false reference and picked up 1.2 psi with the small garret...
    sorry for the high jack Tim!


    I think opening the reed stops might hurt your high rpm performance, just thinking that more pedal movement may cause some probs or delay in pedal action... i don`t know

  4. #4
    steach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pale Rider View Post
    I think opening the reed stops might hurt your high rpm performance, just thinking that more pedal movement may cause some probs or delay in pedal action... i don`t know
    I agree.
    -you should be able to find good low hour 1300 reeds cheap. I like the new OEM reeds in rough conditions.

  5. #5
    improvised tmg97gp's Avatar
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    Talking

    Are the 1300 reeds and cages larger than the 1200??

    I wouldn't call it ghetto, It's called making the best of what you have and making it work!!


    I think it would help high speed performance because the adjusted (bent) stops are allowing the reeds to open further. Remember,the stops are still there to support the reeds when they open.
    No problem with the Hyjack, I have done it myself

  6. #6
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    The 1300 reeds have a different stop in them, it is slotted and allows the reeds to be opened easier. These combined with a 3/8 reed spacer and stuffers worked well in a 1300 I set-up for a friend. poor mans VF-III's not quite the same gain but an improvement.

  7. #7
    improvised tmg97gp's Avatar
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    What abought this reed cage spacer? Does it move them out, out of the way of the turbulence of the fuel/air mix flying around in the engine case?

  8. #8
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmg97gp View Post
    What abought this reed cage spacer? Does it move them out, out of the way of the turbulence of the fuel/air mix flying around in the engine case?
    Simply put it spaces them back 3/8" of an inch, it helps with velocity and reed life. This was a must do on the older 1200 65U yami's reed life was pitiful on those.

  9. #9
    I would think removal of reed stops, in theory, would indeed allow more flow particularly depending on where the pressure changes in the rpm range.
    Though I would question whether one could use the same oem reed material w/o the stops installed , as they weren't designed that way and may cause irreversable bending/deformation.

    Question: why not use the Boyesen 2-stage fiberglass reeds w/o reed stops, as they're designed to be installed w/o stops (?)

  10. #10
    All hail the Chief! fullboogie's Avatar
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    Bending reed stops on stock cages kills the reeds rather quickly. Lowell tried this on my engine in '04 and I only got around 10 hours off two sets of reeds before we figured out what was causing it. As soon as I went back with unaltered cages, reed life went back to normal.

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