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  1. #1

    No Spark 01 Polaris Virage Carb

    Hey I'm new to the Watercraft world and to this forum, I need some help on a 2001 Polaris Virage Carb with no spark. At first the battery was low charged it up and was working fine again. Now the Battery is ok fully charged but no spark at all. I did some reading and haven't tested out the stator yet but I'm leaning to the CDI box. I bought it used so I don't know if this unit I have is part of the bulletin or one of the old bad CDI designed. Any helps or tips on this issue, Thanks!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    If there is any question about the battery health (not the charge level), replace the battery. These CDI do not deliver spark if the battery is not really strong.

    Technically, the CDI needs to receive more than 10.5 volts while the engine is cranking.

    There is no update kit for the 2000-2004 models.

    If you still have no spark with a strong battery, and the lanyard in place, try this;

    Hold down the bilge button -you should hear the bilge pump humming.
    Keep holding the bilge button down, and crank the engine.
    Does it start, or give a strong spark?

  3. #3
    I'll try that out tomorrow when I get a chance and tell you the results, Thanks.

  4. #4
    No spark at all.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amuro View Post
    No spark at all.
    More detail please.

    Did the bilge pump run?

  6. #6
    Sorry, Bilge pump works fine, it turns and you can here it. Engine cranks over fine but still no spark at all.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Amuro View Post
    Sorry, Bilge pump works fine, it turns and you can here it. Engine cranks over fine but still no spark at all.
    Well then, you need to do further investigation.

    Open the electrical box, find the CDI. Without unplugging anything, measure the voltage between the CDI's Red/Purple wire and the CDI Black wire. While the engine is cranking, that voltage must jump to over 10.5 volts.

    If the CDI is getting power, then disconnect the Black/Yellow wire to the CDI. Crank then engine and check for spark. If still no spark, reconnect wire.

    Check the stator for correct ohms, and Hall Effect sensor operation.

    How do I test old and new domestic red engine CDI, Magneto and Ignition coils?

    My ohm-meter measurements don't exactly agree with the service manual specifications. Is this OK?

    Polaris Domestic (red) engine

  8. #8
    Thanks, I'll start doing all that today but one thing I was checking the fusses in the CDI box with a test light and found one fuse has a big voltage drop with the test light not a multimeter. The left side is bright as can be but the right side of the fuse is really dim. Is that normal at all??? I'll try to takes pic of it and post it on here to show you the circuit I'm talking about.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amuro View Post
    ...I was checking the fuses in the CDI box with a test light and found one fuse has a big voltage drop with the test light not a multimeter. The left side is bright as can be but the right side of the fuse is really dim...
    There are two fuses.

    One is for the MFI display, and is a 1/4 Amp fuse. Do not substitute a higher rated fuse.

    The other fuse is for the bilge pump, and is a 3 Amp fuse.

    If you have a voltage drop across the fuse (test lamp brighter on one side than the other), then the fuse is bad, or the electrical contacts have a corrosion/dirt/rust problem.

    Are there any signs of moisture or corrosion inside the electrical box, or on any of the connections?

    Does the terminal board itself have any rust?

    The MFI fuse will have full battery power at all times (when the battery is connected).

    The bilge fuse is only supposed to have power only when the engine is running, or the bilge button is held down.

  10. #10
    That fuse I'm talking about was replaced with a new one and same specs to the original. When I touched the fuse with the test lamp the wire inside the glass fuse gets red hot and that's not normal in my opinion. Still haven't got a chance to check out it out and tested the circuits. From the top view no corrosion looks fine but haven't looked under the bored for corrosion yet.

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