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  1. #1

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    Lots of oil in the engine.

    OK,I used to work for Porsche and Mercedes but I'm stumped now. I bought this sl780 at a yard sale with a trailer for $450.00 and it didn't turn over. After getting a wiring diagram and swapping the wires in the elec box, it cranked, then nothing. Had a good ground and 12v going to the starter sooooo I bought a starter and installed it today. I also removed the fuel tank and cleaned it but it was good, nothing in it and got rid of the fuel. cleaned the fuel/water separator and flushed the fuel lines.
    When I removed the exhaust to replace the starter, there was a lot of oil in the manifold. There was oil on top of the pistons and in the carbs which I removed with a turkey baster. I put it all back together with new fuel and also had the muffler out because the hose going to the outlet was collapsed (big hose). I cranked for a bit and then got oil coming out of the exhaust pipe and the plugs were oil fouled and I do have spark. tia


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    It sounds like the engine might have been 'winterized' with an excessive amount of oil.

    A 2-stroke engine normally has no liquid oil inside the crankcase, just a thin film of oil coating the internals, and lubricating the steel crank shaft roller bearings.

    Normal winterizing involves spraying some fogging oil into the air intakes while the engine is running, then spraying some more fogging oil into each spark plug hole.

    If someone really overdid the oiling, then the crank case could have a lot of liquid oil in it. If that liquid oil got pushed into the combustion chamber, it can hydraulically 'lock' the engine (aka hydrolock, when the piston tries to compress a non-compressible liquid), and the engine won't be able to turn over.

    Hydrolock can twist the crank shaft out of phase, so you will need to check the crank shaft for correct 'crank index'.

    Does the old starter motor, the one you removed, work on the bench? If it does, that points to hydrolocking as a real possibility.

    Remove all three spark plugs, lay a cloth over the top of the engine, and crank it over. Does any liquid spray/spew out of the spark plug holes while cranking?

    If yes, then you may need to drain the crank case to get the excess oil out.

    Sometimes you can crank it long enough to push most of the oil out, but that is hard on the starter and the battery.

    A collapsed exhaust hose is evidence of engine overheating (lack of water cooling melts the rubber exhaust hoses internally). It is possible the engine has been severely overheated, which can mean several forms of damage are possible, including cylinder gaskets leaking water into the cylinders.

  3. #3

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    Is that the only way to get the oil out by cranking with the plugs removed? I did crank it over with the plugs removed and a shop towel over the holes and what a mess. It's pouring out of the exhaust also.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwag911 View Post
    Is that the only way to get the oil out by cranking with the plugs removed?

    I did crank it over with the plugs removed and a shop towel over the holes and what a mess.

    It's pouring out of the exhaust also.
    There are three crank case drain plugs down low on the side of the engine.

    On the Fuji engine, they are hidden under the exhaust system and the starter motor. Too bad you didn't drain the engine when you had the starter motor off

    The other option is to remove the entire intake manifold and carb assembly, and the intake reeds, then suck the oil out with something.
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  5. #5
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    If it really is that full, you may have to pull it apart, not that it is that hard to do. If I remember right, there should be 3 small bolts at the bottom of the engine block that can be removed to drain the crankcase. They are the only ones at the bottom of the block that go in horizontally, they are at the very bottom. It may be worth a try.


    Edit: AHHHHHH, ya beat me to it!!!

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post

    Too bad you didn't drain the engine when you had the starter motor off
    Story of my life. I guess I'll yank the exhaust out again. My other question is: Is it possible for the oil to drain from the oil tank if it sat for a long time? Is it a good idea to get rid of the oil injection and do premix? We live on the lake so I don't have to worry about fuel while riding. Pros and cons. Thanx

  7. #7
    AWA Member 32DegH2O's Avatar
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    Not possible for the oil in the oil tank to drain into the engine. Sounds like someone filled the crankcase with oil for long term storage. As noted above, drain oil out by the 3 screwed in plugs on bottom of crankcase.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwag911 View Post
    ...Is it a good idea to get rid of the oil injection and do premix? ...
    As best I can tell, the Polaris oil injection system is fairly reliable.

    You do have to renew the oil hoses every few years, and change the little filter, and make sure the hose clamps are snug.

    Some guys are afraid of oil injection and do convert to pre-mix, but oil pump failure doesn't seem to be a big problem with the Polaris machines.

    The oil injection system is variable rate, which reduces oil flow at low RPM and idle. This reduces smoke and oil consumption, yet still delivers full lubrication at high RPM.

    Pre-mix will use about twice the oil as the oil pump system.

  9. #9
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk.

    If you remove the carbs and intake manifold, you can get a small hose into the bottom of the engine between the crank webs.

    You can then vac the oil out, and clean/inspect the carbs while you're at it for good measure. (highly recommended if carbs haven't been serviced in a while)

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Welcome to the Hulk.

    If you remove the carbs and intake manifold, you can get a small hose into the bottom of the engine between the crank webs.

    You can then vac the oil out, and clean/inspect the carbs while you're at it for good measure. (highly recommended if carbs haven't been serviced in a while)
    Thanks for the welcome. I'm weighing my options since now that the fuel tank is back in, it makes it harder to get the exhaust out. It might be easier to remove the carbs. Are the carbs a one piece deal? I guess it would be a good idea to inspect the reeds also.
    On a side note, my wifes sister lives in Brecksville.

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