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  1. #1

    Having trouble separating cylinders from case

    I have a SL650 that I am trying to pull the cylinders off of. Of course Polaris used non stainless studs for the jugs and they have swelled big time. I have put penetrating oil around the studs. I smacked the cylinders with a wood block and a small sledge hammer but they won't budge. Even tried putting some heat on them. Does anyone know of a way to pull these things off without damaging the cylinder and case?


  2. #2
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BertMan View Post
    I have a SL650 that I am trying to pull the cylinders off of. Of course Polaris used non stainless studs for the jugs and they have swelled big time. I have put penetrating oil around the studs. I smacked the cylinders with a wood block and a small sledge hammer but they won't budge. Even tried putting some heat on them. Does anyone know of a way to pull these things off without damaging the cylinder and case?
    You are on the right track...penetrating oil and patience. Let the oil sit for a while, it may not just be the bolts, someone may have glued the jugs on with gasket goo or something. Use lots of penetrating oil and let it soak in well. Make sure whatever you do, DONT PRY ON THE GASKET SURFACES or you will be in for a lot of headaches. Rubber mallets are nice when used with common sense.

    ...just wait till you have to pull a flywheel!!!

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by jkindt View Post
    You are on the right track...penetrating oil and patience. Let the oil sit for a while, it may not just be the bolts, someone may have glued the jugs on with gasket goo or something. Use lots of penetrating oil and let it soak in well. Make sure whatever you do, DONT PRY ON THE GASKET SURFACES or you will be in for a lot of headaches. Rubber mallets are nice when used with common sense.

    ...just wait till you have to pull a flywheel!!!
    I have actually had good luck pulling flywheels here lately. I think the trick there is to have a good puller then tap around the wheel while you have tension on it.

    It doesn't look like anyone goo'ed it up. I think the original paper gasket is still there, untouched since manufacture. I see three things that would have keep this from happening. A stainless stud, slightly smaller studs, and a metal gasket (vs the paper). I will keep at it.

    Do you know if a machine shop has a tool that will separate the two?

  4. #4
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Welcome to the hulk! Theres some tabs on it where its safe to tap on it. Where it wont interfere with the mating surfaces.

  5. #5
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    More then likely it is oxidize around the bolt. Get a heavy DeadBlow hammer and work the 2 or 3 sides you can hit. Use something like JB Blaster,not WD-40.You could also try dripping some muric acid along the edge of the stud.

  6. #6
    Thanks for all the suggestions. I didn't think of the muratic acid.

  7. #7
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk.

    The studs are actually SS. Now they may be a lesser grade SS, but normal steel would rust away very quickly. Remember, htese were also meant to run in saltwater which would destroy steel quickly.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Welcome to the Hulk.

    The studs are actually SS. Now they may be a lesser grade SS, but normal steel would rust away very quickly. Remember, htese were also meant to run in saltwater which would destroy steel quickly.
    If that's stainless then that's the worst grade of stainless I have ever seen. BTW, what ski do you have that's made in the USA?

  9. #9
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    All polaris's are made in the USA!

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    Rust penetrants, in approximate order of effectiveness;

    Acetone and Type F transmission Fluid (50:50 blend)

    Kano Kroil

    PB Blaster

    Liquid Wrench

    Since you are fighting aluminum and SS corrosion, I don't know if these would be as effective as they are with iron/steel rust.

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