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  1. #1
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    Canadian SL Project

    About a couple months ago I picked up a 1994 SL650 that I found in a local advertisement. The ad claimed that it needed a motor. After checking to see that the pump was intact and the hull was not damaged around the pump, I bought the ski (cheap) with the intention of cutting out the pump section of the hull to use in a future 2 seater runabout jet-boat project. After getting it home I realized that the motor was still inside and all of the parts were there. The motor had blown the center rods bottom bearing and had broken a chunk out of the top case and scored the bottom case a little. It also took out the piston, cylinder and head on the center. I will post pics of the mayhem as soon as I get the camera out in the shop again. After researching and lurking around here for a while, I decided that it would be a shame to let this ski die, so I have decided to give it new life and bring it back better than ever.

    Here is a pic of the ski exactly how I bought it:



    I bought a cylinder, piston, head, and 6 new rings with the intention of rebuilding it back to the 650 that it is. I 'fixed' the crankcase with some JB weld which actually seems very strong and I have no doubt would hold up well for a long time (not in a high stress area). The only part left was a crankshaft. Then I started checking out the pump.....

    To Be Continued...


  2. #2
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    When I bought the ski I noticed this:



    so I asked the guy what happened. He told me that him and his brother loaded the ski into the back of a truck to move it and accidently set it down back end first and the weight of the ski cracked the steering nozzle. I figured I would just replace the nozzle and all would be well. I pulled apart the pump to check the bearings and found that it was a little bit 'rumbly' when I spun the impeller. When I pulled the cone off, a bunch of water spilled out on the bench. Not a good sign. I knew I would need new bearings and seals for this pump. Once I got the seals off, i found that the bearing shields (the rubber thing on the sides of the bearings) were bulging out and when I pulled them out, even more water poured out of the case. New bearings, new seals, new o-rings, a good cleaning, and a ton of marine grease later, I now have a smooth turning pump!



    Not so bad so far, pump was easy to rebuild. Parts easy to get. I can handle this project.

    LINK TO BEARING AND SEAL INFO





    Let's see the wear ring...



    Ouch, nice groove...looks like I need a new wear ring as well. So after some searching, I found a wear ring off of a 780 pump that had the extension ring, absolutely no wear because the impeller was never inside! Good deal! New wear ring is on its way...

    ...to be continued...
    Last edited by jkindt; 12-24-2009 at 02:28 AM.

  3. #3
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    While thinking about seals and water and leaking and sinking...I decided to rebuild the driveshaft bearing housing (whatever its called) just to be safe.



    I unscrewed the old grease fitting because it looked broken. I am not sure if it was or not, but this new one screwed right in! And it was cheap! Now I can use a standard grease gun to lube my shaft bearing.


    New seals were available locally, thank goodness for industrial supply companies!



    ...and they fit in there perfectly!

    SKF #563541 (22mmx38mmx8mm)



    Ahhh, peace of mind with this part! As long as I don't forget to lube the thing when I put it back together.

    ...to be continued...
    Last edited by jkindt; 12-20-2009 at 11:31 PM.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Interesting.

    I was under the impression that the crimped style through-hull bearings could not be rebuilt



    The replacement seal info I have is below.
    Are the seals you used the same sizes?

    Generic Drive Shaft Seal carrier seal part# 8702 (Two required, or three?)

    www.ebearings.com SKF Rawhide 8702
    Shaft 0.875
    Bore 1.499
    OD 1.503
    Width 0.25

  5. #5
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Interesting.

    I was under the impression that the crimped style through-hull bearings could not be rebuilt
    This unit appears to be machined aluminum, it has small grooves running around it as if it had been turned on a lathe. Yes, the ends look crimped, but the seals were not crimped in at all, they pulled out like normal and the new ones pressed in without any problems. I used a digital caliper to measure up the bore, the shaft diameter, etc to get the seals that I got. They are a little thicker than the old ones, but that's not a big deal on this part. Lots of room. It is easily rebuildable, in fact it looks like you could press out the bushings and replace them if you could find new ones and really wanted to go through the trouble. Mine were fine, I just replaced the seals.

  6. #6
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    nice write up

  7. #7
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    Here's a better picture of what the seals look like fully seated:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    Here's a little bit of what I found in the center jug when I pulled the head off:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The cylinder has a chunk missing where the sleeve extends past the case and it is scored up pretty bad. I have seen some port jobs where guys have ground back this part of the sleeve to keep it from impeding the reed area, but this specific motor must not have seen the memo because it self-ported the wrong side of the sleeve! I will get a pic and add it.

    Here's more pics that I promised:


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    The head looks like a war zone, full of small craters and pits, and actually looks like metal slivers sticking into the head. This thing must have made a heck of a loud racket in its final moments of life. And from the looks of it self-porting job, all it wanted to do is go faster...

    To be continued...

  9. #9
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    After reading about all of the mandatory upgrades required for these ski's to be reliable, I decided that I will need a triple outlet fuel pump before I get this thing running again. This pump just won't cut it...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    As you can see, the AutoCock was still part of the fuel system. Someone had replaced all (most) of the fuel lines with black Gates brand fuel line all the way to the fuel tank. I couldn't see any of the old crap left anywhere. I looked through the forum to see how to route the fuel lines with a triple output pump and realized that I would need to block off two of the lines on the carbs. Looking at my carbs, I found that someone had tee'd in between the carbs to create two inlets, then tee'd those two together under the carbs to plumb into the single fuel pump outlet. When removing this mess, I found that the lines between the carbs was still the old grey Tempo junk, it had just been painted blue to match the engine. I am not fond of having short pieces of hose clamped to the carbs with plugs clamped in the other end. It just seems cluttered to me. SO I pulled the plates off the carbs, pulled out my trusty hacksaw and chopped the extra hose nipples off! I then drilled and tapped the holes to accept a flush mounting set screw type thingy. It makes for a much cleaner, more professional appearance, almost as if it had meant to be. Do I need to seal the threads with thread sealer, or will locktite red work here. The threads are only in as far as needed, so they seat fairly tighty when flush with the casing. Heres the pics:

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    To be continued...

  10. #10
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    This is what happens when you leave your new rolls of paper towel in the house while you take the camera out to the shop to get pics and your cat decides to help you out!

    Click image for larger version. 

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