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  1. #1
    95spi w\factory pipe/96xp Diggler's Avatar
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    Rave Valves and Regulator

    My 96 xp appears not to have something on the bottom of the diafram to seal it on bolth raves. Also on the regulator when I first bought the ski, the tiny scew was missing for the thin clamp that seals the top of the diafram. I use small thin zip ties but usually after a few hours they wear off and the regulator starts to leak again. Also Im weary about the threads on the plastic body of the regulator to the metal or brass fitting. Any good thought to tune these up.


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  3. #3
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Are you talking about the water regulator? Because this is the only one with a clamp like you describe.

    The only thing that is common between the WRV and the RAVES are the top cap. All internals function differently, and use different parts.

  4. #4
    95spi w\factory pipe/96xp Diggler's Avatar
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    Well on the raves other than the large spring around the rubber diafram, the smaller bottom part of the rubber diafram looks like there is a grove to have a clamp or tie around to ensure a good seal. As far as the regulator, I thought I remember someone posting a thread where they used an epoxy around either the water box to thread fitting then did something to fix on with damaged threads on the plastic body. Im affraid to tighten it up more than where its at now if thats leaking. Also yea the thin metal clamp is something else I do need to replace, should I just get all this stuff to rebuild them from seadoo or is there a better source for aftermarket, also ran into a dude 2 years ago out here on the lake that had aftermarket, said they were metal or something.

  5. #5
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    On the RAVES, you don't need any kind of clamp on the bottom of the bellows. Especially if they are green. If red, you should consider replacing, as they get real flexible and blow off.

    On the WRV, the inside plastic piece blows out, and the valve no longer regulates water to the midpipe and melts couplers. This is where people have mentioned epoxying the inside together. Many have blown apart after installing a FP Spec II, also. You should be able to find a small SS screw and nut @ Lowe's to get the band clamp back together.

  6. #6
    95spi w\factory pipe/96xp Diggler's Avatar
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    Yes mine are red and I noticed a rebuild kit for them on watercraft superstore and they are green bellows. I will be replacing these in the off season. Also I have something else that is bothering my engine and not sure if it is electric or what. Since before the "used mpem and cdi box replacement" the motor never would do this weird hesitation that only occurs every so often when I hit it wot, especially after its shut off for a couple minutes and I start it again and hit it wot. Weird thing is when it does it, it slightly goes away by restarting a few times, each time i restart it and would hit it wot it would get up and go normal then the weird graduale slow hesitaion would start to slow it down. It never did this before the electronic box replacement, plus i bought it used so now Im wondering if it works but faulty. Almost seems like its cutting out off the rev limiter even though Im not on it all the way. I did this alot the last time I took it for a ride last week and also did it from first start up then went away again. Its totally not like a fuel cut out or starving. Thats why I am questioning the raves and regulator so much. possibly the raves are hanging up and not opening. sorta worried its an electronic issue.

  7. #7
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Did you get a complete gray box, including a rectifier?

  8. #8
    95spi w\factory pipe/96xp Diggler's Avatar
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    yes I did buy it used as a complete gray box "mpem-cdi and with a rectifier'' through Dominic at seadooscource.com which I was refered too from here to buy "good used tested parts from " which im kinda sKetchy about now. Should I do a test off the battery with my voltmeter to ensure it is regulating at 14.8 and not above? oyeah btw whats a VE 920 motor?

  9. #9
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Yes, I'd test it. You can also test by disconnecting the red wire on the rectifier, and taking it for a quick run. It will not be charging during this time, but it should start and rip with no hesitation. If the symptoms go away, swap your old rectifier in as this one is bad.

    Holding the seller accountable is not realistic, as these fail frequently and can doo so at any time.

    A 920 is a stock 800 cased engine, with a VE monocylinder with 89mm bores and Honda CR 500 pistons. The cases have to be machined to accept the larger sleeves, different head, and bigger carbs must be used. It does rip, and is much lighter than a 951. It also doesn't defeat the great balance an X-4 hull has, versus adding a heavier 951 in the hull.

  10. #10
    95spi w\factory pipe/96xp Diggler's Avatar
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    'Dood' your the doo man! So the symptoms I explained, are they anything similar to what you have delt with in the past with a faulty rectifier as pertaining to the craft still running? I really hope its just that in my "new/used" electric box instead of the cdi and mpem. I do have my old box with everything, for sure the mpem is fried in that, not sure about the cdi if it is good or bad. I compared the two on my voltmeter and came up with pretty close milla ohm numbers which I dont have the greatest voltmeter either, plus I couldnt even get a reading on some of the tests, "I think" because of the super low ohm in that cirrcuit path. So Ill try swaping the rectifier out from my old box and see what happens.
    Id really like to see some of your pix to your boats...

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