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  1. #1
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    2000 polaris SLX 1200

    Hey all. I found these comments on the 2000 1200cc SLX. Are they worthy? I'm just trying in advance to know before i get this as to what to do about preventing the front cylinder from grenading. And any Mods. Thanks...



    Opening up the cooling (by eliminating the cooling bar and running individual outlets from each cylinder or rotating it 180 so it exits forward) helps the front cylinder. There's also the Group K method which I'm, told is pretty affective. Additionally a cooling cover for the stator is a nice addition. All these things in combination will substantially prolong the life of the front cylinder (although the problem with smoking the front cylinder on the 1200 is nowhere near what it was on the 1050...)

    If you've got the "bing" carbs he should junk them. If he wants I've got a set of the stock 40's (and I believe the stock intake manifold and flame arrestor) that he could have for $200 plus shipping. They're jetted with the 01 jetting (which is by far the best but it is just a touch lean and would possibly need some fattening on the lower end in a bigger ski than the SLX)...They're also set up for dual fuel lines which could easily be rectified for a single fuel line with a couple pieces of fuel line and some fittings...

    As for exhaust: The hotseat waterbox yielded a wopping 20 rpms on my 150psi 1200 Polaris with bigger carbs (44mm) and lots of sound. Opening up the exhaust on a single piper will yield very little (and as mark said may actually cost speed). The jetworks valve does wonders for holeshot and there are 2 different routes to go on the stinger that dumps into the exhaust. Reducing the size (on a stock motor) increases holeshot and minimally robs power on top...On a motor pushing more air and fuel (higher compression, reeds, carbs, etc...) using the jetworks valve to keep the water out down low and opening the size of that stinger actually yields some impressive top end results (50-100 rpms depending) and does not affect holeshot...Most people will tell you that's crazy on the various boards but that's a Sharp's trick on their single pipe monsters...

    Put a wedge on it and make sure it has the R&D small wing intake grate (the 650 model)...I believe the "bat wing" style rideplate off the Virage TX will work on that ski with minimal modification and gain a little more also?

    Compression is good also but the domestic Polaris motor has a ton of crankcase volume and actually needs crank stuffing to really respond to it...It won't get the same gains just by adding higher compression domes that a ski like the GPR will...

    also next trick, if it came from the factory with the OEM nu-jet style prop, stick with it rather than going with a aftermarket Nu-jet prop. Ultimately it will yield the best top end results as the blade length is longer than the aftermarket ones but you will not see a rpm loss. I could repeatedly see an additional .5mph on the OEM Nu-jet 7.0 vs a aftermerket Nu-jet 7.0 and the fastest MSX/Matrix I know of on the planet is running a reworked stocker for top end numbers as well...


  2. #2
    AWA Member 32DegH2O's Avatar
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    Where did you get this post? Just curious as I think a lot of it is outdated!

  3. #3

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    I had a 2000 SLX 1200 a few years ago and never had any issues. It was stock. I also have a 1997 SLTX 1050 with over 200 hours on it never touched and still running great stock. Never any problems with either. By the way the SLX used to run 75 mph on perfect water by the MFD. I know this isn't accurate but it ran incredible I didn't want to fall off at whatever speed I was actually going. The 1050 only runs 55 mph by the MFD.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 32DegH2O View Post
    Where did you get this post?

    Just curious as I disagree with a lot of it!
    Looks like it originally came from Chris on the Hydrotoys forum

  5. #5
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Yep thats where i saw it! Isn't Hydrotoys a member on here also? Yeah, I know the wish gauge isn't accurate, I bet it's more like 65 not 75! lol .
    When I get mine, I'll run it with the GPS and see what numbers I get. I think I am going to cut holes in the forward vents (beneath them ) for some natural cross-ventilation. Just a heat issue, not a Performance issue. And a couple near the back under the seat so you can't see them. Alittle extra fresh air in there can't hurt!.

  6. #6
    AWA Member 32DegH2O's Avatar
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    Well a lot of that info is outdated. If you are running around the 6700rpm range (high compression heads or not), there is no heat issue with the carbureated 1200's. If you are having problems with the front cylinder, it's either you are running lean due to the carbs or you have a crank seal leak...that's assuming water is circulating in the system. There is no need to change the water system setup in stock operation. The impeller info is not correct. You can get better top end and out of the hole with an aftermarket NuJet impeller.

  7. #7
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    2 cents

    the bings are junk,my best mph #'s were always with the aftermarket 7.0,the matrix uses a 707 prop not the 202 like the slx of 00,the 01 uses the 707 as does the pro1200.i wouldn't mess with the stinger size unless you go with a 1350 like the sharps build,the jet works valve is a good item.the cooling cover mod was for the fi motors which generate a lot of heat from the extra amps created for running the fi pump and injectors.the racers thought heat was killing the timing bases on 7800 rpm motors so they ran the covers but i seem to remember it being microvibrations doing the damage.rerouting the outlets will even out the temps but rejetting will be needed as well.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    ...I think I am going to cut holes in the forward vents (beneath them ) for some natural cross-ventilation. Just a heat issue, not a Performance issue.

    And a couple near the back under the seat so you can't see them. A little extra fresh air in there can't hurt!.
    Be sure to install and route internal ducting for those extra vent holes down into the lower half of the hull.

    When you flip it over in the water, those vent openings become places for water to flood into the hull and sink it fast. The ducting becomes a snorkel when the hull is inverted, preventing the water from flowing into the hull.

    Look at any stock PWC air inlet, you will see it always routes the air down low into the hull. When upside down, those air ducts are now above the water level, and water does not flood the hull

    First photo is inside an MSX 140 hull. Both air vents come in on the same side, and route all the way down to the fuel tank strap ends.

    Someone posted pictures of their extra vents near the rear seat handle, and they added additional stock vents+ducting. I don't recall if those were Polaris vents, or something else (Yamaha?)
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  9. #9
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Excellent K-447!. Thanks for the expertise on this subject. I see what you mean by being inverted and not getting water into the hull. I'll do that. Makes total sense. The prop.. I will see what it is... 32h20..Probably stock.. I'll get 1 of the jet valves for the pipe. Thats tried n tested. Then stop after that and see how it acts. I believe if you do 1 mod at a time and see the results first and are happy with it, you can move on to the next. Are those Bing carbs the stock carbs?
    Yeah Tex1200, messing with the stinger size is asking for problems. Probably a touchy situation right there. Any little change probably produces big differences. Heat.ete....Then rejetting too. I won't bother with that.. thanks all.. Great Info for SLX owners.
    Hey k-447 what about the rear holes by the seat? route air ducts for them also?
    Last edited by bowsniper; 12-19-2009 at 10:19 AM.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    ...what about the rear holes by the seat?
    route air ducts for them also?
    Yes, that is what the B&W diagram is showing

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