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  1. #1

    2002 Genisis Backfiring

    I posted about this a long time ago, but now winter is here and I can play with it again.

    Bought 2002 genesis I 1200 2 years ago. After kids ran it into the weeds the engine was cooked and had to be rebuilt. Local marine shop rebuilt, and installed new EMM due to instant "EMM overheat" code being false triggered (It was decided the lack of cooling that destroyed the engine damaged the EMM). After 4 hours on the new engine it has become hard start (labors turning over, like out of time, turns over fine with out sparkplugs in) and when does start backfires (split the muffler end to end, that now needs welding). Another shop said shody engine job and rebuilt top end. Same problem. Have taken things into my own hands. I am a mechanic but am still learning this marine stuff. This is what I have done.

    1) new battery, cleaned all connections at batt and block, solenoid, starter. Tested batt @ crank, maintains approx. 10.2 volts
    2) replaced, gapped, indexed spark plugs
    3) Checked fuel pressure, 25 psi crank and running
    4) Pulled mag, covers, flywheel key intact, no flywheel damaged
    5) with mag cover off, checked crank indexing, all pistons @ TDC exactly 120 deg apart
    6) Tested all stator (magneto) windings, all within resistance specs
    7) Injector voltage = 22V cranking, 45 V running
    Capacitor bleeds down nice and slow
    9) Ign primary around 200V cranking, all connected, @ each coil using an occilosocpe
    10) Tested engine position sensor (193 ohms), but replaced with known good anyways (from my 2002 Virage I, polaris parts says they are the same)
    11) Buddy works at local Polaris dealership (they dont/have never done watercraft, can't even get parts for them) so we built a cable and connected digital wrench,
    TPS reads 0.816V/6.9% at idle, 3.710V/94.7% @ WOT, smooth transition

    We noticed though that sitting there connected to Digital Wrench, the igntion timing (as displayed) will jump from 10 deg BTDC to -2983 deg BTDC (yes you read correctly), and inj timing will jump 150 deg BTDC to -6253 deg BTDC (yes you read correctly). Unable to see what timing does running because we don't hae the correct cables, digital wrench looses communiction when start, end engine quits from all the backfiring before it can reconnect.

    Yes I have checked the ign primary and secondary leads, and injector leads for proper position using wiring diagram.

    I have compiled these things to check from reading manuals and posts on Greenhulk, I am out of ideas. Is my new ECM faulty ??


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Continuation from this thread;
    Genesis 1200 FFI with miss

    It does sound like your EMM is not behaving.

    Did you do the checks Bernie listed?

    If you unplug the TPS, does it start and idle properly?

    I seem to recall Bernie mentioning that when the timing jumps to crazy values, the EMM is suspect.

    You have the option of sending the EMM to DFI Technologies for diagnosis and possible repair. I understand that their policy is if there is no problem with the EMM, they charge for return shipping only.

    Do check the linked items, especially the ignition coil grounds;
    Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines

    It is possible to keep the EMM awake, and monitor the EMM while the engine starts up and shuts down.

    You will need a diode (1 Amp or larger diode seems to work for me), and thin jumper wires to link the 45 volt White/Red wires to the battery positive. Connect the diode in series with a small fuse so the battery can power the White/Red wires, but the 45 volt system cannot back feed into the battery

    If you have the diode jumper connected correctly, the EMM will wake up (make sure the lanyard is in place), even though all connectors are plugged into the EMM as per normal operation, and the engine is not yet running. The EMM diagnostics cable stays connected between the two halves of the EMM loop back connector.

    When you start the engine, the injector voltage will jump up, but the diode will prevent the 45 volts from affecting the battery. When the engine stops, the voltage will drop back to 12 volts, and the EMM will stay awake.

    You will need to find a suitable splice location in the wire harness to inject the diode protected power into the White/Red wires.

    BTW, 10.2 volts while cranking indicates a weak battery. A healthy battery will deliver 11.0 volts or better while cranking. It is not causing your backfire, but that battery is marginal.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    2&4strokepolaristech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    the emm needs to be replaced or repaired. The timing is all over the place and that is abnormal. This is fairly common to happen to the D.I. units. If you send it to DFI make sure you put that down.I have probably seen a hundred of these over the years.

    CPS (crank position sensor) value is is anything thing under 200 ohms...

    hope this helps


  4. #4


    thanks everyone, I emailed DFI last night to see what they had to say, but it sounds like the vote is for a faulty ECM. Been more than a year since it got installed so I am guessing warranty is out of the question. Will see if DFI gets back to me today and them package it up and send it out.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Was it really a 'new' EMM that was installed when the previous repair was done?

    Have you checked the stored codes in your EMM?

    Is it possible the water cooling for the EMM is not working correctly?

    Look for kinked or incorrectly routed water lines. The normal EMM cooling water flow is tapped off the main water inlet hose. The smaller hose then routes through the magneto stator housing cover, then through the EMM. The water then exits the EMM, and exits the hull near where the exhaust system exit is.

    If the EMM is not properly cooled, it will eventually cook itself, and sometimes will not generate a code, even though it is not working properly.

    You might want to remove each small water line, and verify that none are clogged or blocked.

    How to read Polaris Ficht EMM trouble codes without special software or a computer
    When the Check Engine message comes on, the EMM stores special codes into memory.
    You can read those codes, and find out what the EMM thinks may be the problem.

    Clearing EMM Service Codes using jumper or TPS cycling
    Note: the EMM may automatically clear old service codes after 15 running hours, if the same code has not re-occurred during that time.

  6. #6

    new emm

    The dealer I bought it from claims it was brand new. However, he did have it in stock (probably not a common, shelf, item) and sold it to me "at cost", to get rid of it. I beleive the sticker on it for S/n was all 0's unlike the old that had a serial number.

    Just struck me, I have the old ecm, other than throwing the "emm overheat" code, it ran fine and would have the correct calibrations in it. Now I feel dumb. Going to see if I can try that today some time.

    Water if coming out of the ecm water fitting when running machine with garden hose, will check the water outlet line though for blockage and routing, maybe blow some air though it to make sure.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Did the dealer copy the injector mapping data to the replacement EMM when they did the installation of the replacement EMM?

    If they did not, it wouldn't be causing the backfire. Just checking that things were done correctly.

  8. #8
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Davenport, IA
    having recently dealt with DFI, you will have _much_ better luck calling them...they never replied to any of my e-mails.

    if I were you, I would send both EMMs to them, that way they can verify the injector mappings were copied.

    if you can spare the cash, you could also get both repaired and sell one of them or keep it for backup. EMMs are very hard to get and the ones I have seen go for a pretty penny on e-bay.

  9. #9


    the mapping and injector calibrations were transfered from the old to new. I verified injector S/n when digital wrench was connected.

    So I connected the old ecm, machine started without backfiring/laboring, back to old habit of having to start about 6 times before it stays running with start button off, but this should verify the ecm is at fault. Engine revs out of sight when it does start. Disconnected TPS and no longer revs away, idles poorly and sets check engine light, so I think I will replace the TPS as well just for good measure (and I just want to use the thing next season with no more problems). Been a poor year for machines, didn't get to run the MSX or this all season. Had to be happy with the baby Virage I.

    Still waiting to hear from DFI but I think its a clear cut case of faulty ECM.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    I agree with tenjuna - send both EMM to DFI.
    Telephone, not email

    They may be able to repair one of the EMM easier than the other. You can decide whether to fix one or both after they have diagnosed the problem(s).

    It would be great to have both fixed. Not only would you have a spare, but you can sell it during riding season for more than the repair costs

    TPS, it is always good to have a spare on hand. The same new part would fit both your Genesis and MSX 140, I believe.

    Check the starter solenoids in both hulls. If either one is black body color, replace with the newer brown body version. The Black ones will fail, and can strand you on the water, or even burn out your starter.

    Older 4010858 starter solenoids with a Black body tend to fail
    Replace with the newer Brown body solenoid 4011043

    Improving the ignition coil grounding on 1165cc (1200) Ficht engines

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